Going back together- slowly

Peter Coomaraswamy

Well-Known Member
Site Donor $$
Messages
3,787
Reaction score
896
Location
Austin, TX
Sorry-got carried away

I found these in the trunk of a donor car. I promise not to paint flames on the finished product.
 

Attachments

  • pedals.jpg
    pedals.jpg
    92.2 KB · Views: 149

Peter Coomaraswamy

Well-Known Member
Site Donor $$
Messages
3,787
Reaction score
896
Location
Austin, TX
Engine going in-tips accepted

Attempting to put the engine in this weekend. The engine bay is pretty empty. I have a lift and good equipment to do the job but I'm wondering if anyone has put the engine and trans in as a single unit or if that is not advisable.

Any tips or tricks would be most appreciated.

Thanks as always!
 

Luis A.

Well-Known Member
Site Donor
Messages
1,533
Reaction score
358
Location
Wisconsin
The photo below is from a poster by the name pf Blaise on the First Fives board. See more photos of this method and his project here:
https://plus.google.com/photos/103050987004936020215/albums/5640124523439121185?authkey=CLqO3pbOnZyMMg&banner=pwa

This is what I plan to use. I think it's a bit easier than a similar method of dropping the car onto the *complete* subframe/engine/suspension assembly because this method leaves the heavy and cumbersome struts off to be installed afterwards. The cart used is nothing more than 4x4's and OSB and it seems a lot easier than other supporting devices.

IMG_1691.JPG
 

revitoff1o

Member
Messages
32
Reaction score
3
Location
Chicago Area
Peter - if you have a 2 post, you can put the engine and trans in all in one shot with it sitting on the sub-frame. I just took mine out today that way.

I supported the front of the engine, rear of the trans, and then have each side of the sub-frame supported. (I had left the wheels on it, but they don't really help support it at all once the shocks are out.) 4 jack stands should do the trick. Put the trans brace on too.

I think if you have the engine and trans with the sub-frame on a furniture dolly, you could move the whole unit around to get it better lined up, probably need less jack stands then too. (Coming out that didn't matter much.) Once the body is lowered, it's 6 bolts. Much easier than going in the top.
 

Attachments

  • Engine Coming Out (6).jpg
    Engine Coming Out (6).jpg
    90.7 KB · Views: 165
Last edited:

Peter Coomaraswamy

Well-Known Member
Site Donor $$
Messages
3,787
Reaction score
896
Location
Austin, TX
Thank u all and another question

Thanks for the advice and if I had not been in such a hurry to put the front end in and get the car back on the ground I for sure would have put it in all at once from the underside. I guess it would be near impossible to drop the engine/trans in from the top so I'll stop with that idea. I keep wanting to put the engine back in but these little things keep popping up, broken studs on the exhaust manifolds, bad clutch disk but I think I'm set now. I have an old sub frame that had some cracks in it but it makes a good table-top engine stand so I included a couple of pics. Oh, also removed the "Jarvic-7-scuba tank looking thing".

There is also a question I have on the carbs; I took pics of the tags and I am hoping you folks can tell me if these are stock carbs, and where I can get a rebuild kit for them.
This is more fun than any man wearing blue rubber gloves should have :)

Thanks in advance
 

Attachments

  • manifold on4.jpg
    manifold on4.jpg
    92.2 KB · Views: 148
  • manifold on2.jpg
    manifold on2.jpg
    92.1 KB · Views: 150
  • webbers.jpg
    webbers.jpg
    93.7 KB · Views: 150
  • webbers1.jpg
    webbers1.jpg
    97.1 KB · Views: 143

Stevehose

Well-Known Member
Site Donor $$
Messages
13,009
Reaction score
5,681
Location
Sarasota, FL
Those are not stock, they are replacement Webers. If you want original, find a pair of Zenith INAT 35/40's and rebuild them, when they are tuned correctly they are great carbs but were misunderstood/maligned and quickly replaced by Webers back in the day. I've had both, and I prefer the Zeniths. Weber rebuild kits are readily available. Try Mesa Performance - read them the carb info and they will be able to help.
 

Peter Coomaraswamy

Well-Known Member
Site Donor $$
Messages
3,787
Reaction score
896
Location
Austin, TX
And after review..

I only need to remove 4 bolts, the steering coupling, and the struts to get the sub frame out... you think it's worth it. Would putting the engine/trans in as a single unit be worth the hour? I'm thinking so, but I would love to hear from those who have done it. BTW Nice digs Rev!
 

Peter Coomaraswamy

Well-Known Member
Site Donor $$
Messages
3,787
Reaction score
896
Location
Austin, TX
Thx 4 quick answer

Thanks Steve,

Every time I go further into this thing there is something begged borrowed or stolen from another vehicle; front calipers from a 2002tii, wheels from who knows what, now the carbs. The only history I have on the car was that it was given to a lawyer in trade for "services rendered" around 2000 in Dallas TX. The last owners drove it for a couple of years in New Mexico and then put it in the garage for four or five years before I got it in 2011. Lots of dings and Bondo and a new paint job but only small rust on the floor pans- I took it down to the bare bones. Maybe someday I’ll get the complete story.
 

Peter Coomaraswamy

Well-Known Member
Site Donor $$
Messages
3,787
Reaction score
896
Location
Austin, TX
Got tired of looking at it

So I put it back in tonight. Took about an hour, had a good hoist and an engine tilter thingy, now the real work begins, getting all the conversion stuff matched up for the 5-speed but I have gotten allot of help from Y'all and allot of parts too so I'll keep posting pics-
 

Attachments

  • engine in1.jpg
    engine in1.jpg
    97.7 KB · Views: 164
  • engine in5.jpg
    engine in5.jpg
    91.3 KB · Views: 163
  • engine in.jpg
    engine in.jpg
    92.8 KB · Views: 158

Sven

Well-Known Member
Site Donor $
Messages
1,145
Reaction score
110
Location
Seattle
Peter,

The easy way. The entire engine, transmission, and all accessories can be put together before it goes into the car. You can also finish the engine bay stuff without the engine in the way (brake line connections, radiator, and brake booster).
 

Attachments

  • EngineInstall.jpg
    EngineInstall.jpg
    64 KB · Views: 185

Peter Coomaraswamy

Well-Known Member
Site Donor $$
Messages
3,787
Reaction score
896
Location
Austin, TX
Upgrade, or not so much?

Hi Folks, I have some parts off a 1980 633 CSI and I'm wondering if it is worth using them on my 3.0. The first is a newer oil canister; any value to using this rather than the stock? Next is a starter, I ask because it's "new", re manufactured, and the third item is the master cyl; again rebuilt. There seem to be differences in all these parts. I'm going from an automatic to a 5 speed so I don't know if these will be enhancements or if they'll even work. Please let me know what you think-I included some pics for identification.

Thanks,
 

Attachments

  • 1980 oil canister.jpg
    1980 oil canister.jpg
    93.2 KB · Views: 138
  • 1974 oil canister.jpg
    1974 oil canister.jpg
    89.3 KB · Views: 130
  • 1974 starter.jpg
    1974 starter.jpg
    91.9 KB · Views: 129
  • 1980 starter.jpg
    1980 starter.jpg
    97.6 KB · Views: 133
  • 1974 and 1980 brake master.jpg
    1974 and 1980 brake master.jpg
    95.1 KB · Views: 139
Top