I should have checked! No it did not.Great point. So did 4310316 start as automatic? I trust your database can answer that faster than I can ask.
4310316 begins
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LONG TIME NO SEE
SO BEEN WAITING FOR HELP STILL YET A LIGHT IN THE TUNNEL FROM
GRACIOUS MEMBER ARDE TOOK A FIRST LOOK AND WILL RETURN IF NOT TOMOR THE NEXT WEEK
AND IVE COME TO THE REALITY OF THE STARTING ISSUE
SO I PULL A PLUG OR TWO AND THE UNIT ROLL OVER LIKE CRAZY
"THERE IS TOO MUCH COMPRESSION -THATS THE REALITY .
SO IM GOING TO HAVE THE WIRING SET UP AND TOW IT IN 4TH GEAR TO START THE BEAR
I HAVE A TON OF THINGS TO DO AS IVE BEEN DISSEMBLING BITS AND PIECES IN THE LONG WAIT.
I REPLACED THE 9 PIN CONNECTOR AT THE DASH AND CONTACTS NEED TO BE ADJUSTED
AS INTERMITTENT POWER TO THE GAUGES.
HAVE THE FRONT TRIM OFF TO PAINT THE FRONT END.
HAVE TO PICK UP MY ALUMINUM PARTS AT THE PLATER IN OAKLAND
HOOK UP THE COIL IGNITER AND TEMP GUAGES
FUNNY THAT THERE ARE TWO TEMP SENDERS UP FRONT
LA DE DA OK
BAC\K AT IT
SO BEEN WAITING FOR HELP STILL YET A LIGHT IN THE TUNNEL FROM
GRACIOUS MEMBER ARDE TOOK A FIRST LOOK AND WILL RETURN IF NOT TOMOR THE NEXT WEEK
AND IVE COME TO THE REALITY OF THE STARTING ISSUE
SO I PULL A PLUG OR TWO AND THE UNIT ROLL OVER LIKE CRAZY
"THERE IS TOO MUCH COMPRESSION -THATS THE REALITY .
SO IM GOING TO HAVE THE WIRING SET UP AND TOW IT IN 4TH GEAR TO START THE BEAR
I HAVE A TON OF THINGS TO DO AS IVE BEEN DISSEMBLING BITS AND PIECES IN THE LONG WAIT.
I REPLACED THE 9 PIN CONNECTOR AT THE DASH AND CONTACTS NEED TO BE ADJUSTED
AS INTERMITTENT POWER TO THE GAUGES.
HAVE THE FRONT TRIM OFF TO PAINT THE FRONT END.
HAVE TO PICK UP MY ALUMINUM PARTS AT THE PLATER IN OAKLAND
HOOK UP THE COIL IGNITER AND TEMP GUAGES
FUNNY THAT THERE ARE TWO TEMP SENDERS UP FRONT
LA DE DA OK
BAC\K AT IT
How much compression does this engine have???
One temp sensor is for your ECU and one for the temp gauge. Towing it to start may work once, what will you do the next time?
More faulty reasoning I can’t think of….
Quit being an architect and start thinking like a scientist….
remove 6 plugs and thread in your compression tester.
crank 6 revolutions
Answer?
Next-
home run a fresh battery to your starter
Answer?
Quit being an architect and start thinking like a scientist….
remove 6 plugs and thread in your compression tester.
crank 6 revolutions
Answer?
Next-
home run a fresh battery to your starter
Answer?
I still think there’s a ground issue. My 3.8 had 10.5:1 and I had zero issues.
Is your new battery actually new, or is it a used battery like last time? Like others, I’m still not in any way convinced that this is a compression issue. If it is, something is wrong with the motor build.
Plenty of domestics running 13:1.
Plenty of domestics running 13:1.
Run a ground from valve cover to inner fender!
Why would you do that?
Better ground, the Chamonix wouldn’t crank without it.
Interesting.
controversy FOR SURE
I DO THE COMP TEST IN THE MORN TO POST DATA
BRAND NEW OPTIMA RED
I DO THE COMP TEST IN THE MORN TO POST DATA
BRAND NEW OPTIMA RED
ITS WAS A 4 SPEED ILL GET AT IT WHEN I GET SOME TIME
Perhaps a stupid question but seeing as it spins without plugs I can only think of 2 things.
1. The starter just isn't getting the current it needs. Have you tried hooking power directly to the starter from a fresh new battery out of the car?
2. What are the plugs like? Could it be possible you've installed the wrong ones and they are fouling the piston just before tdc, or can the engine crank by hand with the plugs in
1. The starter just isn't getting the current it needs. Have you tried hooking power directly to the starter from a fresh new battery out of the car?
2. What are the plugs like? Could it be possible you've installed the wrong ones and they are fouling the piston just before tdc, or can the engine crank by hand with the plugs in
YOU CAN TURN BY HAND
Belgiumbarry
Well-Known Member
well IF I CANT DO THE ENGINE WIRING NOW ILL DO THE OTHER part
the Instument wiring that HIT A HOT LEAD AND cooked ALL oF it
(myspace bar IS making my cap lock go on
anyway got new nine 6 pin molexes and reset all the leads
soldered them all in and covered WITH weatherstrip adhesive
then ill space wrap EM with cloth tape and should BE good TO GO
tired OF KEEP HITTING THE SPACEBAR SO DEAL WITH THE CAPS
SO GENTLEMEN I CANT SEEM TO GET LOGAN ON THE HORN
SO THINKIN OF MY OPTIONS.
COULD STUDY AND DO MY BEST AT LINKING THE LINK UNIT
ORRRR PULL THE WHOLE DAMN THING APART AND START OVER WITH A
STOCK ECU. ON THAT THOUGHT--- WHAT WOULD I GET?
I STARTED THIS ALL OUT WITH THE 535i HARNESS AND A MEGASQUIRT
YETT-- IF I GET ANOTHER 535 HARNESS . WOULD I GET THE STOCK
535i ECU OR AN M5 ECU ?? THEN I COULD DO THE WHOLE DANG THING MYSELF.
I WILL GET THIS BASTERD RUUNNING BY MID SUMMER MAYBE EVEN IN TIME FOR THE
OCTOBERFST AT THE ACTORS STUDIO.
Quinta Resort and we will host several driving events -ILL BRING MY GOLF CLUBS
OHH THAT DRIVING!!!
NUF 4 NOW
IF YOU WANT TO CONDITION YOUR VINYL
USE MCQUIRES 40 SPRAY LIBERALLY AND LET IT SOAK IN THEN BUFF
PERFECT!!!
the Instument wiring that HIT A HOT LEAD AND cooked ALL oF it
(myspace bar IS making my cap lock go on
anyway got new nine 6 pin molexes and reset all the leads
soldered them all in and covered WITH weatherstrip adhesive
then ill space wrap EM with cloth tape and should BE good TO GO
tired OF KEEP HITTING THE SPACEBAR SO DEAL WITH THE CAPS
SO GENTLEMEN I CANT SEEM TO GET LOGAN ON THE HORN
SO THINKIN OF MY OPTIONS.
COULD STUDY AND DO MY BEST AT LINKING THE LINK UNIT
ORRRR PULL THE WHOLE DAMN THING APART AND START OVER WITH A
STOCK ECU. ON THAT THOUGHT--- WHAT WOULD I GET?
I STARTED THIS ALL OUT WITH THE 535i HARNESS AND A MEGASQUIRT
YETT-- IF I GET ANOTHER 535 HARNESS . WOULD I GET THE STOCK
535i ECU OR AN M5 ECU ?? THEN I COULD DO THE WHOLE DANG THING MYSELF.
I WILL GET THIS BASTERD RUUNNING BY MID SUMMER MAYBE EVEN IN TIME FOR THE
OCTOBERFST AT THE ACTORS STUDIO.
Quinta Resort and we will host several driving events -ILL BRING MY GOLF CLUBS
OHH THAT DRIVING!!!
NUF 4 NOW
IF YOU WANT TO CONDITION YOUR VINYL
USE MCQUIRES 40 SPRAY LIBERALLY AND LET IT SOAK IN THEN BUFF
PERFECT!!!
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You couldn't write this stuff..
tygaboy
Well-Known Member
@aearch - I certainly don't want to give you more to do but I just re-wired my entire 914/LS3 - every wire, crimp and connector in the car. I prepared for that by completing hours (and hours) of on-line, motorsport-level wiring training from a company called HP Academy. May I suggest you think about redoing that instrument wiring with proper open barrel crimp connectors and heat shrink? Pics below show an example of an open barrel crimp splice in my harness and that same splice sheathed with sealant-lined heat shrink. Soldered connections create a far greater failure possibility than a crimped connection.
I'm near enough to you that, depending on your needed timeframe, I'd be happy to help you source the needed parts, then come by and show you the basics. I can bring all the super awesome tools and the repair (of what you pictured) could be knocked out in less than 30 minutes. Achieving a high quality result is well within the reach of the average hobbyist. I know this because I didn't know anything about wiring ahead of tackling a "from scratch" wiring of my entire car. And yes, everything works.
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I'm near enough to you that, depending on your needed timeframe, I'd be happy to help you source the needed parts, then come by and show you the basics. I can bring all the super awesome tools and the repair (of what you pictured) could be knocked out in less than 30 minutes. Achieving a high quality result is well within the reach of the average hobbyist. I know this because I didn't know anything about wiring ahead of tackling a "from scratch" wiring of my entire car. And yes, everything works.
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