Weber advice

bill

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Weber 32/36 or 38/38? Over-center problems with the linkage? Where could I buy new ones? Any help would be appreciated as I am considering a conversion.
 

Dick Steinkamp

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I would guess more M30 owners have converted from the stock Zeniths to 32/36 DGEV or DGAV (electric or water choke). I have 38/38 DGES and have no complaints.

The linkage is infinitely adjustable. I'm sure there are adjustment combinations that would cause it to go overcenter. I've never seen it, however.

Redline is probably the biggest seller of new kits for the M30

Here are some links to Weber info.
 

Stevehose

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When I replaced my Zeniths for Webers back in the 80's on my first coupe, mine went overcenter and locked wide open throttle on the first drive. So yes, it can happen, so check and adjust before flooring it for reals. If I didn't have triple side drafts on my current car I would keep the Zeniths.
 

dang

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gwittman

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I had the JAM Engineering kit installed in the 80s. I am pretty sure it has the 32/36 Webers. I like them a lot and have needed only one rebuild since then.

I drove it for at least 5 years before I had an over-center issue. I don't know what changed to make it happen. It was easily fixed with an adjustment to the linkage, and it has never happened again. The biggest downfall of the over-centering was after it was fixed. I took it out for a test drive and floored it as hard as I could in second gear to make sure it would not hang. Unfortunately, there was a police car hiding in a place where he was never there before. I got a 50 in a 40mph speed zone ticket. I tried to explain what I was doing but he was not interested. Neither was the judge.
 
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pickman

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Yes the linkage is a tricky item, converted first to 32/36 Webers pretty straight forward bit of monkeying, recently converted to 38/38 a whole different set of linkage issues. Had to make several modifications as they were sticking closed and once has enough pedal pressure all heck broke loose. I have a referbed set of 32/36 Webers if interested.
 

dang

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Yes the linkage is a tricky item, converted first to 32/36 Webers pretty straight forward bit of monkeying, recently converted to 38/38 a whole different set of linkage issues. Had to make several modifications as they were sticking closed and once has enough pedal pressure all heck broke loose. I have a referbed set of 32/36 Webers if interested.
I've decided I need to redo the linkage on my 2800 that has the 3.5L motor and 38/38's. With all four barrels opening at the same time the short throw linkage makes it really hard to drive smoothly. Bad enough to not want to drive the car that way. I've gotten lots of feedback from others about different linkage setups so it's just a matter of figuring out what works best.
 
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Dick Steinkamp

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Yes the linkage is a tricky item, converted first to 32/36 Webers pretty straight forward bit of monkeying, recently converted to 38/38 a whole different set of linkage issues. Had to make several modifications as they were sticking closed and once has enough pedal pressure all heck broke loose. I have a referbed set of 32/36 Webers if interested.
@pickman Have you seen this thread on the sticking?

 

pickman

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I have the post on sticking, my solution was different but effective. To my thinking the linkage was too linear to the throttle arm on the carbs which caused an almost locked situation (sticking). By removing the engine throttle linkage modified the hole location on each arm to allow for free floating motion. Achieved WOT on both carbs synchronized.
 

pickman

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Attached is a photo of the various positions of the linkage used to determine best location to preclude sticking. Slightly bent the throttle bracket on the carbs to provide add clearance to intake manifold both have to be identical. By moving the adjuster toward engine it eliminated the over top condition where the adjuster was pulling the carb throttle link strait up instead of rotating the carb throttle link. All adde holes have been filled for strength.
 

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Arde

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I took it out for a test drive and floored it as hard as I could in second gear to make sure it would not hang. Unfortunately, there was a police car hiding in a place where he was never there before. I got a 50 in a 40mph speed zone ticket. I tried to explain what I was doing but he was not interested. Neither was the judge.
Yep, carburetors are not in the law school syllabus...
 

pickman

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Yes Sir! Took the E9 out after a final tune today. Temp 83 H 90 with middle son Jeff PHD teacher. He got his eyes wide open on the back roads taking the freeway home with the hundreds of FIPS heading into MI, can attest we got up to 120 MPH in G5 SHORTLY! Thank goodness smokey bear was not around. There is value in reading and following the advice of the Forum members and I thank them. I do not suggest anyone break the law by speeding!
 

pickman

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Been pondering the 123 upgrade. Below are photos of the Mallory cap and rotor note the rotor has plenty of corrosion on the center contact. Although the dual point original was adequate it took some fussing to get the dwell and timing on spot. This Mallory distributor was an upgrade 25 years back, the 123 is SO much more user friendly and performance enhancing. There is a unique stretch of freeway near me straight and usually clear of traffic. Using the Mallory ignition there was a noticeable slight shimmy (front end) at around 95 -100MPH that possibly due to the advance, could not get past it, was white knuckle territory, with the 123 the car blasted thru this and handling became smooth well into the 120 MPH range. This was a short duration test but relived my concerns on the top end handling, the car is capable of high speeds and good ride and handling unfortunately we do not have an Autobahn here. Too old to want to explain to the police, drive within the limits please. Thank you forum for good advice and help with many many issues.
 

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Stevehose

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It ain't perfect, but the 123 is a great piece of tech that unleashes the potential of the M30.
 
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