Suspension recommendations please

[DerSchwede]

I have Star Specs on my Miata. Quite amazing on that application, but I don't think it might be as suited to an an E9 ( (Just a hunch). They are terrible in cold weather (lower than 50f). On my E46 and E36 ( Both with large sway bars), Michelin Pilot Sport 2's were by far the best performing tires from a feel and control point of view. I bought Conti DW Extreme for my Coupe (haven't tried them) and just installed them on the E 46 wagon and I am a disappointed compared to the Michelin. The steering has diminished feel IMHO. Hopefully the Coupe is better suited to the Conti.

I don't know the Conti DW Extreme, but afaik the Conti Sport Contact 5 is currently one of the best three tires on the market in 17" - 18". Test winner in almost every test in the past 12 months. Have it in 225/245 on 17 Ms on the E46 and I'm willing to second the testers!

For the E3/E9 you will probably want something else to suit the chassis setup. I'm happy with the Vredestein Sprint Classic (205/70/14) as well as the Michelin XWX (same), though the Michelins provide a better grip on wet roads (not applicable for E9ers? ;-)

It would be nice to see all the suspension combinations in this thread. One thing I would want in my setup is the ability to be unflappable on a bumpy road the way BMW seems to have built their reputation. I think you need wheel travel for that.

All you need for that is a bone stock setup with new bushings and Bilstein shocks. Add the slightly stiffer BMW springs initially made for the car and you'll love it. Yes it will roll in the corners, but does that really make you drive slower...? The E9 (as well as the E3) chassis needs wheel travel in order to alter the camber when cornering for better accuracy and feel. You can probably go around that corner quicker with a beefier setup and tires - but the car wont talk to you anymore and will feel line a dead fish. The same goes for a nose down stance! That will produce very bad grip in the back in corners and make the oversteer very unpredictable. The rocker panel trim should not be more than 1" higher in front of the rear wheel than behind the front wheel if it's a drivers car. Esthetics on the other hand is a matter of taste but that was not the question now right? ;-)

Cheers
A

 

[Henrik]

I had the same feeling with my car, and I also have new bushings, links etc. etc.
But after a profesional front wheel alignment the problem disappearded.

 

[Peter Coomaraswamy]

off to the shop then

I was given the same advice earlier today; "have a laser allignment" and the problem should be fixed so I will do it and report back.

 

[Lotuss7]

Only early e12 based e24 bar will work, it's 23mm. Euro Csi had option of the 23mm or standard 17mm.

Chis is correct based on my conversations with Hardy and Beck. These guys were the US distributor for Alpina during the 70's and developed some pretty serious cars in the day. My 2800 CS has a stock 18mm rear bar with about a 17mm front.

Today they still recommend the E12 based front bar at 23mm with their suspension kit which includes lowering springs and specially valved Bilsteins. They contend stiffer than 23mm (maybe 24mm euro M5?) front can be an issue with the flexi pillar less coupe.

This is one flexible rig... too stiff without proper reinforcement will most likely ultimately be an issue.

John

 

[DerSchwede]

There is only one BMW with a larger front bar than 23 mm which will suit E3 and E9. (It's 24 mm and it's not from an M5...)

And trust me - 17 mm in front until 9/73 for euro models, after that 23 mm for the 3.0 CS and CSi. Same as the 3.0 E3. The only difference was the rear bar for the 2800 (16 mm for the 4-door, 18 mm for the coupe)

 

[Peter Coomaraswamy]

As mentioned

I took the old gal (with new cloths) to a pretty swank shop where they do lots of exotics. The car was very well received and I had the alignment done. I now have that "push-back" feel from the wheel that I was looking for though the test drive was only about 6 miles back to work and the road was very straight.
This is what I have done to the suspension, besides replacing every single bit of rubber under the car (even those little pieces that go around the fuel lines) and the parts I have used and the alignment results. Both as reference and for comment. After looking at the alignment results some may say the car was rolled... more than once, but I'll leave that up to you all.
So,
All new bushings, new control arms and all new steering components less the P/S box, brakes, rotors, calipers, and wheel bearings. Wheels and tires new- 16X8 with 205/45/16 on all corners. New front sub-frame, new Bilstein inserts in front and HD's in the rear, Carl's springs (2011)-all corners, neg. camber plates from CN, CN strut brace, ST Suspension front and rear sway bars- hope I did not forget anything.
The results from the alignment are below.

 

[DerSchwede]

You got to lower the rear to get some decent camber! At least -2 deg and don't forget to squeeze the toe-in to get "in" and not out, otherwise it will give quite poor handling, like snappy over steer and no grip when cornering.
Cheers
Anders

 

[Peter Coomaraswamy]

Thanks Anders, with the results in my last post what would you recommend I set the toe-in at? The alignment helped allot but I took her for a more challenging run yesterday afternoon and the best way I could describe the ride was "not confidence inspiring" in that when I took a corner-left or right-the car felt like it wanted to keep turning and did not provide enough movement back to center. As a result I had to steer the car into the corner and steer her back to center. Would you consider this classic over-steer? and would the slightly wider and taller tires necessitate the increased toe-in?

Thanks,