thehackmechanic
Well-Known Member
I'll write about this in Roundel sometime, but I want to give a hearty (and completely uncompensated) recommendation to the Motive Products brake bleeder
http://www.amazon.com/Motive-Produc...M5L0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1323640902&sr=8-1
You pour up to two quarts of brake fluid into it, screw its cap in place of the brake fluid reservoir cap, pump it up, and walk around from wheel to wheel and bleed, occasionally returning to the Motive to pump it back up. This is much easier than the Gunison EZ Bleed I've used for nearly 20 years, as 1) it ran off pressure from a tire, and 2) you'd have to unscrew it to add fluid to the reservoir.
The $53 red label model has a plastic cap with a non-swiveling hose, requiring you to pre-twist the hose before threading the cap onto the reservoir. For about $20 more you can buy the black label model that comes with a nice knurled aluminum cap that has a swivel fitting in the middle, eliminating the pre-twisting ritual.
I've had to do some serial brake work on a recently-purchased 3.0CS requiring iterative bleeding, and it's been great.
The one downside is that some care has to be taken depressurizing and disconnecting so as not to get brake fluid everywhere. I found that unscrewing the cap on the bleeder tank to release the pressure, bending the hose so only a small amount of fluid will gravity-feed into the reservoir, then cracking open a bleed valve and gravity-bleeding the brakes for a minute drew the level down enough.
With Christmas coming, drop some hints on this to your spouse.
--Rob
http://www.amazon.com/Motive-Produc...M5L0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1323640902&sr=8-1
You pour up to two quarts of brake fluid into it, screw its cap in place of the brake fluid reservoir cap, pump it up, and walk around from wheel to wheel and bleed, occasionally returning to the Motive to pump it back up. This is much easier than the Gunison EZ Bleed I've used for nearly 20 years, as 1) it ran off pressure from a tire, and 2) you'd have to unscrew it to add fluid to the reservoir.
The $53 red label model has a plastic cap with a non-swiveling hose, requiring you to pre-twist the hose before threading the cap onto the reservoir. For about $20 more you can buy the black label model that comes with a nice knurled aluminum cap that has a swivel fitting in the middle, eliminating the pre-twisting ritual.
I've had to do some serial brake work on a recently-purchased 3.0CS requiring iterative bleeding, and it's been great.
The one downside is that some care has to be taken depressurizing and disconnecting so as not to get brake fluid everywhere. I found that unscrewing the cap on the bleeder tank to release the pressure, bending the hose so only a small amount of fluid will gravity-feed into the reservoir, then cracking open a bleed valve and gravity-bleeding the brakes for a minute drew the level down enough.
With Christmas coming, drop some hints on this to your spouse.
--Rob