thanks anders, much appreciated !
can you explain please when does the car becmoe less stable ? with the plates on or witout ?
Lan-suspension new shock absorbers and springs front and rear
- Thread starter deQuincey
- Start date
thanks anders, much appreciated !
can you explain please when does the car becmoe less stable ? with the plates on or witout ?
dequincey,
Looking good on the parts.
This is a special tool made for this purpose.
Most people use the impact wrench and that works.
But in case the impact doesn't work.
Found this with Google.
The big black socket goes on the nut and the small one fits on top of the shock shaft.
Looking good on the parts.
This is a special tool made for this purpose.
Most people use the impact wrench and that works.
But in case the impact doesn't work.
Found this with Google.
The big black socket goes on the nut and the small one fits on top of the shock shaft.
Gary,
do you have said tools? i need to put the decamber plates on my coupe
do you have said tools? i need to put the decamber plates on my coupe
No I don't have them. I saw them on Amazon.com for less than $15 with shipping.
I do have other suspension tools for ball joints etc. Also have spring compressor if you need them.
dequincey,
Looking good on the parts.
This is a special tool made for this purpose.
Most people use the impact wrench and that works.
But in case the impact doesn't work.
Found this with Google.
The big black socket goes on the nut and the small one fits on top of the shock shaft.
thanks, they look correct, but i have had them already done hand made...:roll:
these are universal pieces ... not sure they are going to fit our cars. and the dang website doesn't specify the sizes. there are a few complaints in the reviews saying they didn't fit their car and that it would have been helpful for the manufacturer to give you the size information.
Yes, I agree. I just didn't spend the time to look any further as I don't need these. Google first as there were other suppliers.
my solution as to the tool problem
finally this was the way i went:
the inner shocket is 15mm, but the two parallel faces of the shock rod are 11mm,
so i made two thin plates 2mm thickness each:
finally this was the way i went:
the inner shocket is 15mm, but the two parallel faces of the shock rod are 11mm,
so i made two thin plates 2mm thickness each:
starting setup meassures
i positioned the car on a flat surface and made meassurements for ulterior comparison:
the actual setup is the stock one, but 40 years old...
front left : 53 mm front right : 56 mm
rear left : 18 mm rear right : 18 mm
meassured this way:
i positioned the car on a flat surface and made meassurements for ulterior comparison:
the actual setup is the stock one, but 40 years old...
front left : 53 mm front right : 56 mm
rear left : 18 mm rear right : 18 mm
meassured this way:
DerSchwede
Well-Known Member
If you measure it from the tip to the centre of the roundel on the hub cap the result will be the same regardless of which tires you use. 
start, rear springs
lift the car with the big garage jack on the differential, using a thick wood block,
this is the place in which i put the stands:
the rear of the car sits in two points, and i use an additional jack to compress the subframe, and thus the spring, firsr right side, then left side
i bought a pair of spring compressors (LASER) in HALFORDS in the UK, they are very convinient with an extended clamp that allows to use only two instead of three
see the places to position the compressors one opposite to the other, there are not many alternatives
no doubt i had to remove the shock lower fixing point, it has a M16 selfblocking nut, when reasemble remember that the torque is 120 N.m, and moreover you have to give the final torque in driving conditions (car on tyres) and fully loaded
the process was:
0- remove the lower fixing of the shock
1- compress the subframe with the small jack
2- place the compressors and compress a bit
3- relay the subframe and use the compressors to compress the spring until..
4- remove the spring
5- remove the rubber parts
now take a look to the old and new carl nelson´s springs,the c.n. ones have the spring compressors on, but they are not compressed, so you can compare the shortened lenght
i took the advantage of having all out to apply some antirust product, PERMAFILM is a very strong antirust fluid easy to apply without stripping the old paint or protection, it creates a nice, flexible and strong shield it dries in one hour
the left side, old springs and rubbers
lift the car with the big garage jack on the differential, using a thick wood block,
this is the place in which i put the stands:
the rear of the car sits in two points, and i use an additional jack to compress the subframe, and thus the spring, firsr right side, then left side
i bought a pair of spring compressors (LASER) in HALFORDS in the UK, they are very convinient with an extended clamp that allows to use only two instead of three
see the places to position the compressors one opposite to the other, there are not many alternatives
no doubt i had to remove the shock lower fixing point, it has a M16 selfblocking nut, when reasemble remember that the torque is 120 N.m, and moreover you have to give the final torque in driving conditions (car on tyres) and fully loaded
the process was:
0- remove the lower fixing of the shock
1- compress the subframe with the small jack
2- place the compressors and compress a bit
3- relay the subframe and use the compressors to compress the spring until..
4- remove the spring
5- remove the rubber parts
now take a look to the old and new carl nelson´s springs,the c.n. ones have the spring compressors on, but they are not compressed, so you can compare the shortened lenght
i took the advantage of having all out to apply some antirust product, PERMAFILM is a very strong antirust fluid easy to apply without stripping the old paint or protection, it creates a nice, flexible and strong shield it dries in one hour
the left side, old springs and rubbers
Last edited:
the front ones
moving over the front ones,
remove the wheels
unbolt the brake hose support
undo the two M14 bolts that fix the calipers
hang the calipers out of the working place:
undo the three M10 special bolts, first you will need to cut the safety cable
then you will need to use a chisel and hammer to separate both halves:
a nice tip,
you first need to undo the lower retainer nut from the sway bar, but to avoid the complete strut to fall down when removing the three top nuts, use the jack to keep the falling of the strut controlled
after removing the strut, see the top and i checked the integrity of the body
moving over the front ones,
remove the wheels
unbolt the brake hose support
undo the two M14 bolts that fix the calipers
hang the calipers out of the working place:
undo the three M10 special bolts, first you will need to cut the safety cable
then you will need to use a chisel and hammer to separate both halves:
a nice tip,
you first need to undo the lower retainer nut from the sway bar, but to avoid the complete strut to fall down when removing the three top nuts, use the jack to keep the falling of the strut controlled
after removing the strut, see the top and i checked the integrity of the body
right side
wait ! the rubber under the wood is to avoid any displacement or slip between the steel of the stands and the wood, is a sort of extra protection, i am really concerned about safety
Now is a good time to put stainless brake lines in!
I also touched up the paint on the top side of the strut mounts so it looks nice when reassembled. I also touched up and waxoiled the underside as well.
I also touched up the paint on the top side of the strut mounts so it looks nice when reassembled. I also touched up and waxoiled the underside as well.
wait ! the rubber under the wood is to avoid any displacement or slip between the steel of the stands and the wood, is a sort of extra protection, i am really concerned about safety
You keep thinking of detail improvements and it shows. Safety being the best one.
guys,
take a look at the grain on the piece of wood. that's no simple piece of pine 2x4. it looks like a piece of select hardwood ... my guess is that its mahogany. deQ ... you always exceed the norm.
take a look at the grain on the piece of wood. that's no simple piece of pine 2x4. it looks like a piece of select hardwood ... my guess is that its mahogany. deQ ... you always exceed the norm.
good one, yes, and the stands are 24kt gold, but they were painted in grey to avoid scratches:lol:
wood is not pine, right, you have a good eye, but is not mahogany either, it is this kind of exotic hard wood from africa that it is used for the floor in some houses, i got it for free at a local workshop
i see that you guys scan all the little details, ....;-)