Just to be clear- you drove the car with a warning light on for a year and a half?
Be glad it wasn't the oil pressure light.
Be glad it wasn't the oil pressure light.
Just to be clear- you drove the car with a warning light on for a year and a half?
Be glad it wasn't the oil pressure light.
It is very common for the three wires from regulator to battery to became frayed, lose their sheathing and come into contact as they are somewhat hidden. If the charging lamp stays on your system is not charging. Your loose wire is the culprit here. To test the alternator run the motor and put your voltmeter on the battery posts, you should see around 14V. With motor off around 12V. If you replace your alternator with a modern single wire model you can run the blue wire directly to the alternator and bypass the regulator with its three wires entirely. Leave the regulator in place with no wires attached to keep a period look.
Read this link - https://bimmerlife.com/2020/08/29/nailing-the-e9s-electrical-issue/Hi all,
I need some help or general thoughts about the issue I have with my CSi. I few weeks ago I finally was in the position after 2.5 years of work to really drive the car.
After driving for almost 200kms the car suddenly died on the highway. At a speed of 120km/h the car struggled and finally stopped. With 3 or 4 big bangs from under the hood I managed to get the car safely on the side of the highway. Because of the 'bangs' I thought something really damaged but after opening the roof everything looked normal, nothing to see.
I then tried to restart the car, but the startmotor went very slow, as if you have a low battery. At that moment I thought about something in the engine itself (hardware).
Called the tow company, brought me home, and after 3 hours the car was in my garage again. Couldn't resist to try to start it again and it actually didn't, as if nothing happened.
After reviewing what happened, I now think/know that I lost ignition, gas kept on going, which came into the exhaust manifolds (self ignition because of the heat) and after the car cooled down it started again. I didn't felt on the coil, if it was hot or not. With trying to find something on the forum I came across this threat: https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/smokin-hot-ballast-resistor.9504/
But I don't oversee the whole picture, I have a new coil, new contact breaker points, new plugs & wires, new distributor, new rotor, new injection trigger points but an old resistor and the original wiring (which I suspect, while it all looks ok).
Any thoughts? Thanks for help.