CSi suddenly dies

BMW3.0CSi

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Hi all,

I need some help or general thoughts about the issue I have with my CSi. I few weeks ago I finally was in the position after 2.5 years of work to really drive the car.
After driving for almost 200kms the car suddenly died on the highway. At a speed of 120km/h the car struggled and finally stopped. With 3 or 4 big bangs from under the hood I managed to get the car safely on the side of the highway. Because of the 'bangs' I thought something really damaged but after opening the roof everything looked normal, nothing to see.
I then tried to restart the car, but the startmotor went very slow, as if you have a low battery. At that moment I thought about something in the engine itself (hardware).
Called the tow company, brought me home, and after 3 hours the car was in my garage again. Couldn't resist to try to start it again and it actually didn't, as if nothing happened.

After reviewing what happened, I now think/know that I lost ignition, gas kept on going, which came into the exhaust manifolds (self ignition because of the heat) and after the car cooled down it started again. I didn't felt on the coil, if it was hot or not. With trying to find something on the forum I came across this threat: https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/smokin-hot-ballast-resistor.9504/
But I don't oversee the whole picture, I have a new coil, new contact breaker points, new plugs & wires, new distributor, new rotor, new injection trigger points but an old resistor and the original wiring (which I suspect, while it all looks ok).

Any thoughts? Thanks for help.
 
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adawil2002

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Are you running points & condenser or an electronic igniter Pertronix?

My CSi exhibited the same symptoms in 2012 it was due to the Pertronix overheating and cutting out.
 

BMW3.0CSi

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What type coil and ballast resistor ohm are you using

I have to check the part number, but on the pictures you see the old coil (black, repainted, but it was originally black) and the new one. I know the new one isn't black, but it should be a replacement part. Will check the exact part number tomorrow, same for the ohm value of the resistor. I thought it's around 1/1.2 Ohm.

121.jpg


Old coil, partly dismantled here. You can see it had some damage,:
coil old.jpg


And the new coil:
Coil.png
 

BMW3.0CSi

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Are you running points & condenser or an electronic igniter Pertronix?

My CSi exhibited the same symptoms in 2012 it was due to the Pertronix overheating and cutting out.

With the old coil I had something similar, when turning the ignition on, but not starting the car it also became very hot after some time. Haven't checked this with the new coil to be honest, will test this tomorrow also.
 

HB Chris

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1. I’ve never seen a condenser laying inside of a dizzy! It mounts outside where that rubber grommet is.
2. check the label on you silver coil, it probably says 1.8 ohm resistor is needed, you have the older 1.1, you are sending power to points that will wear them out earlier than expected.
 

BMW3.0CSi

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New input, but it all looks ok. Coil that says that it needs a 0.9 ohm resistor, resistor that gives a 0.9 Ohm reading (while a bit fluctuating between 0.9 and 1.2.
Also, when ignition turned on, after lets say 5 minutes the resistor is getting extremely hot. Coil was at room temperature. The only thing I don't know is if anyone recognizes the small black part. It came with the car, but to be honest I don't know what it does?

@HB Chris, condenser was already in the distributor when I bought the car. Also, if you look at the grommet it looks like it has to be like this. The engine is originally from an E3, I don't know if those cars used another distributor? Or if it even matters?

Old coil part number 0221 102 050
IMG_1958.JPG


Resistor:
IMG_1949.JPG


Resistor reading: 1.0 ohm
IMG_1954.JPG


The new coil, part
IMG_1951.JPG


With part no:
IMG_1952.JPG


The small black part, don't know what it actually does?
IMG_1950.JPG


So it all looks like it's ok...
 

HB Chris

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Have you replaced your starter recently? Weird question but if the replacement has an always hot wire vs. only when cranking to bypass the resistor you are sending too much current. My resistor was cherry red as it was hooked to an always hot wire from the starter. The original SR-71 only sends switched power when cranking. Long shot I know but it shouldn’t be glowing.
The condenser fits to the dizzy with a square rubber grommet on outside of dizzy, someone turned yours inside out, that can’t be good,
Your coil and resistor are matched that’s a good thing.
 

BMW3.0CSi

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Have you replaced your starter recently? Weird question but if the replacement has an always hot wire vs. only when cranking to bypass the resistor you are sending too much current. My resistor was cherry red as it was hooked to an always hot wire from the starter. The original SR-71 only sends switched power when cranking. Long shot I know but it shouldn’t be glowing.
The condenser fits to the dizzy with a square rubber grommet on outside of dizzy, someone turned yours inside out, that can’t be good,
Your coil and resistor are matched that’s a good thing.
I haven’t replaced the starter, it’s the same one that’s on from the past. All wires are tightened and fit correctly. The resistor becomes hot, but not ‘cherry red’. I suppose that you had the heat built up also when ignition was turned on, but not running the engine?

about the condenser, ok, it should be placed outside the distributor then, but what does it actually matter?

and what do you mean with the SR-71? Starting relay?
 

Keshav

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Here‘s another E3/ E9 dizzy with the condenser inside with a Bosch part#. Maybe that helps in identifying whether it’s the right one or not?
And another one with external condenser but completely different par#

 

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HB Chris

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I haven’t replaced the starter, it’s the same one that’s on from the past. All wires are tightened and fit correctly. The resistor becomes hot, but not ‘cherry red’. I suppose that you had the heat built up also when ignition was turned on, but not running the engine?

about the condenser, ok, it should be placed outside the distributor then, but what does it actually matter?

and what do you mean with the SR-71? Starting relay?
The condensor keeps from burning up points. The SR-71 is a starter, looks like it can’t be your issue if it wasn’t changed.
 

HB Chris

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Keshav, based on where the points are they are on the opposite side on two of the three. Has anyone ever seen an e3/e9 dizzy with condenser inside?
 

wilies13

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Hi,
- if the engine had run for 200km, then the overall system was working initially properly and something has died/changed after 200km.
- I do not understand the current status:
- is the starter still much to slow ? and/or
- is there an ignition spark ?
... a lot of success
 

Wladek

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Keshav, based on where the points are they are on the opposite side on two of the three. Has anyone ever seen an e3/e9 dizzy with condenser inside?
Genuine CSI D-Jet distributors are all with condenser inside
CS distributors or L-Jet indeed have condenser outside but that's a different story.
20191017_214426.jpg
20191017_214538.jpg
 
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Honolulu

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The starter can be isolated and tested by jumping two wires at the solenoid, though I forget which two. You can actuate only the starter, only the solenoid, or both together (better be in neutral with brake set!). That would assess starter/solenoid health and might reduce the number of suspects.
 

BMW3.0CSi

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Genuine CSI D-Jet distributors are all with condenser inside
CS distributors or L-Jet indeed have condenser outside but that's a different story.
View attachment 78697View attachment 78698
Thank you Wladek! So it's at least a CSi distributor. Is also see that's the ones on your pictures have the smaller advanced ignition bulb. The ones that Keshav mentioned have a bigger one, but that's something different.
 
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