Removing 1" front spring US Federal spacer

[Lotuss7]

Ran across the FAQ thread on removal of the 1" front end spacer which I understand was required meet US Federal bumper height mandate.

I like the stock stance of my coupe but have to say dropping the front end a bit would be welcome.

The FAQ had a note about lowering the studs once the spacer is removed as there is a potential hood conflict.

Not sure I am wild about just cutting them off. Is it possible to replace the studs with shorter ones or some other clever solution?

Thanks in advance.

John

 

[HB Chris]

The thickness is more like 5/8-3/4" as I recall. When mine were removed I cut the studs with a grinding wheel and covered them with yellow zinc dome nuts. If like the 2002, they might be ordered with shorter studs. However, the studs which can be tapped out don't always fit all brands of strut bearings. At least that is what I discovered.

 

[adawil2002]

If you are going to remove the spacer, might as well replace the upper support bearing and upgrade the suspension while it's all apart.

 

[E911]

and then while you're in there you should go ahead and disassemble the entire car and refresh everything... wait, maybe you should leave the spacers after all

 

[Stevehose]

It's easy for a tire shop or yourself to do this, on mine he loosened the 3 nuts, jacked up the car just enough to lower the studs through the hole and reach up to get the spacer out, then lowered back up through the fender. He then cut the studs to fit the existing dome nuts. Took about 45 min to do both. Studs are part of the strut bearing so it's easier to just cut them than trying to swap them out if you decide to replace the bearing which is a more involved (and $$$) job with removing the struts entirely.

 

[pamp]

Spacers?

Before you hack or shorten the studs, consider a strut brace. You will still need to shorten a bit....what I did, then acorn nuts as mentioned. For sure check the bearings.

 

[Lotuss7]

Thanks all. Think I'm going with the tear it all down and build it back up option. Hopefully by that time I won't have forgotten and reinstalled the spacer!

Actually...liking the fit for a cross brace and then cut to length strategy. Cap nuts will cover the sins of taking a cut off wheel to the studs.

Thanks again ...

John

 

[jmackro]

liking the fit for a cross brace and then cut to length strategy. Cap nuts will cover the sins of taking a cut off wheel to the studs.

Be carefull stacking a cross brace loop + acorn nut onto the studs - you may still have interference with the underside of the hood. Check the clearance before dropping the hood the first time! The stud that is the farthest forward is the one that causes problems, due to the angle of the strut.

 

[Stevehose]

Well if you're going in you may as well do lowering springs and negative camber plates along with the strut bearings and Bilsteins so you won't have to go back. Plus the rears. :mrgreen:

Thanks all. Think I'm going with the tear it all down and build it back up option. Hopefully by that time I won't have forgotten and reinstalled the spacer!

Actually...liking the fit for a cross brace and then cut to length strategy. Cap nuts will cover the sins of taking a cut off wheel to the studs.

Thanks again ...

John

 

[John Buchtenkirch]

I chucked my spacers in a lathe and cut the ugly off before I installed them on top of the skirt. Then I replaced the acorn nuts with stainless washers & nylocks from McMaster-Carr. I left the studs the original length so I can fabricate & add a strut tower brace at a later date when the stock air cleaner is gone. ~ John Buchtenkirch

 

[adawil2002]

Well if you're going in you may as well do lowering springs and negative camber plates along with the strut bearings and Bilsteins so you won't have to go back. Plus the rears. :mrgreen:

Also get the Suspension Techniques 28mm front and 22mm rear anti-sway bars, La Jolla Independent sells them.

Do a search for the Carl Nelson suspension setup, that'll dial your suspension right in.

 

[m5bb]

Strut braces were mentioned.
Not trying to steal your thread.

I've only seen one (Ireland Eng) and it was one piece.
Does anyone make a brace where the cross rod disconnects from the tower pads?
Many of the newer model cars use one that is 3 pieces.

Thanks,
Gary

 

[Luis A.]

I installed the shorter studs on my strut bearings since on the E3, at least the later cars, the correct nut is not a domed one but a regular nut.

The strut bearing is another on of those parts where the various part numbers are confusing; all parts looking to be the same but with very different prices. There are several strut bearings some costing much more than others. Strtu bearing # 31331101663 appears to be the same as 31331106060 with the exception of 060 having the longer studs required for the USA height ring/spacer and 663 having the shorter. Also 663 is around $200 and 060 $74.

I purchased 060 and replaced the longer studs: 33521103812 (realoem shows a photo) with the shorter 31332624109, new PN is 31336765744. If you are putting on cap nuts then all this is moot and you can just slice off the excess stud.

 

[Lotuss7]

Carl Nelson is my new best friend. Started sourcing parts from them day 2 after I purchased the car.

Prior to getting his particular car my plan was to immediately drop in one of Carl's suspension kits. Now? This car is so beautiful in its stock state which includes my replacing the BBS wheels with stock I'm tempted to not touch much. A little lower to Euro spec? OK. The car is so original I'm probably not even gonna do a 3.0 disk brake swap. May regret that decision after I blow by the apex in an "oh sh*t" corner but that's where I am for now.

Old school!

 

[Stevehose]

My car is original but the lowering springs/camber/spacer removal makes it look and handle great. I hate when these cars ride high in front.

Carl Nelson is my new best friend. Started sourcing parts from them day 2 after I purchased the car.

Prior to getting his particular car my plan was to immediately drop in one of Carl's suspension kits. Now? This car is so beautiful in its stock state which includes my replacing the BBS wheels with stock I'm tempted to not touch much. A little lower to Euro spec? OK. The car is so original I'm probably not even gonna do a 3.0 disk brake swap. May regret that decision after I blow by the apex in an "oh sh*t" corner but that's where I am for now.

Old school!

 

[adawil2002]

My car is original but the lowering springs/camber/spacer removal makes it look and handle great. I hate when these cars ride high in front.

My car is original too. Coupes look more beautiful with the right stance, which is a personal aesthetic.

Before: 100% stock on tippy-toes. After: Front lowered 9/16ths of an inch with older sport springs, rear still stock.

 

[Lotuss7]

Luis A....

That is the right way to go about it. Cut off wheel is back in the drawer!

John

 

[m_thompson]

I need to replace the strut cartridges, so I might as well remove the spacers and replace the strut bearings and shorter studs at the same time.

 

[David]

My car is original but the lowering springs/camber/spacer removal makes it look and handle great. I hate when these cars ride high in front.

My understanding is that the latest batch of springs from Carl dont really lower the car.

 

[Stevehose]

This is true, mine only dropped about 1/2" after accounting for replacement of sagging strut bearings and replacement of oem inserts with Bilsteins. I'd like a little more lowering but still an improvement and looks pretty good and level.

My understanding is that the latest batch of springs from Carl dont really lower the car.