WTB Black Valve Cover for my E9

CSteve

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Looking for a black valve cover in good + condition. And matching cap. Is there such a thing. Know little about these except I like them.

Send photos to Steve ONeill [email protected]

Steve
 

Ohmess

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I had mine powder coated and sanded it to get this effect:

20170419_165423.jpg


Coating was done by ASCO in Manassas, VA. They have done a handful of things for me and I have been very happy with them.
 

sfdon

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Make sure you get the right one for your car.
 

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CSteve

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Eastwood high temp krinkle paint and a little tape..............
Powder Coated looks like the way to go. Do you recommend a special kind of powder coating? I know nothing about it. And what grade sandpaper.?

thanks, guys.
 

mulberryworks

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I'm not sure of what grade sandpaper would be ideal as I haven't tried that with powder coating, but I'd start out with something fairly harsh, like 80 grit, just to get the bulk of it off. As soon as metal starts to show, I'd switch to 150, then 300 and several finer grades, depending on how smooth you want the final metal surface to look. You could practice on a scrap piece of aluminum to see what effect you like. Home Depot doesn't have the really fine grades above 600 or so, you'll have to go to an automotive paint store to get those but it could be worth it.

If you really want some bling, you could use some polishing compound and get things smooth and shiny. Polishing is usually done with a cloth wheel powered by a drill or big motor, but with the powder coat nearby, you'd be limited to hand polishing which would be a chore. And one polished element might look out of place in your engine compartment, resulting in a long list of things you want to polish to get it all looking nice. It can be addictive, I've heard, once you start polishing things.

Anyway, I'd use a hard sanding block, or perhaps one of the 3M flexible rubber ones, but nothing soft behind the paper to keep it up away from the powder coat. Use wet/dry paper with water, it will keep the paper from clogging so much. Be sure to only sand in one direction, I'd recommend along the length of the head cover. Tape off the rest of the head as a slip could mar the fresh surface.
 

Ohmess

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I don't recall exactly what grit I used, but I went the opposite way of how you would usually do this. I started with a relatively fine grit (400 maybe?) wet/dry sandpaper just to see how much coating would be removed with each pass. You can't put it back on if you make a mistake. I used a 3M flexible rubber block; one important part of this is the curve on the surface of the cover. You need to concentrate on sanding small areas, adjusting the path of the block so as to be parallel to the curved surface. In other words, the block is held at a different angle when sanding the middle lines as compared to the outer ones. As Mulberry suggests, I sanded along the long axis of the cover. I did not polish at all, but left the finish a little rough.

The logo is by far the hardest part. Do that last after you get the hang of it.

Also, tape liberally. I have one tiny slip and it bugs me every time I see it.
 

Drew Gregg

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Here's what Vapor Blasting and epoxy painting looks like. There is an airline mechanic/BMW owner near me that finished my valve cover. I did the rattle can krinkle finish job to my 2002 valve cover 40+ years ago-still looks okay,but the Coupe deserved better.
 

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Drew Gregg

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I need to get rid of the K&N breather filter and go with the standard hose down to the engine bay bottom. Too much oil splatter on that nice valve cover. I thought the filter would work,but it doesn't. Thanks for the compliment--the guy does really nice work.
 
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