1974 e9... need I say more?
WTB (because I'm a numbskull) steering shaft
- Thread starter Peter Coomaraswamy
- Start date
i know i have some of the 74 steering column ... i just think i have the top end but will check tonight when i get home. if you don't have any luck here, try double 02 salvage ... then carl nelson / coupeking / coupeguy
Wladek
Well-Known Member
Probably will be hard to find.
Maybe try straighten it first & then some extra welds all round bent area?
Maybe try straighten it first & then some extra welds all round bent area?
Knowing that you were about to perform the lift/palette operation, and with hind sight crystal clear, I think I see exactly what transpired earlier today. 
I second the idea of straightening it. This isn't a high stress item (like a suspension part or an engine part). Seems that the hardest part would just be getting it relatively true again. But then it should perform well after that. My 2 cents...
I second the idea of straightening it. This isn't a high stress item (like a suspension part or an engine part). Seems that the hardest part would just be getting it relatively true again. But then it should perform well after that. My 2 cents...
Eeek, that looks painful. I see what you did there!
I presume the splines are due to the adjustability. Looking at realoem, the column seems to be the same on '74 e9's and e3's. It seems infinitely easier to find '74/'75/'76 bavarias than e9's. You may want to check with @Bavman and @Koopman as well.
I presume the splines are due to the adjustability. Looking at realoem, the column seems to be the same on '74 e9's and e3's. It seems infinitely easier to find '74/'75/'76 bavarias than e9's. You may want to check with @Bavman and @Koopman as well.
Dangit Peter.... painful :eek:
Thanks Scott
OK, off to the machine shop across the driveway
Knowing that you were about to perform the lift/palette operation, and with hind sight crystal clear, I think I see exactly what transpired earlier today.
I second the idea of straightening it. This isn't a high stress item (like a suspension part or an engine part). Seems that the hardest part would just be getting it relatively true again. But then it should perform well after that. My 2 cents...
OK, off to the machine shop across the driveway
Well, having made the mistake of driving a VW pan & engine with the steering column poorly affixed, I can say that failure of steering in the middle of driving will ruin your day. I was lucky. I only had to buy a new (used) fender.... long story.
My understanding is that welding on steering parts is verboten. Just too hard to verify that the welds are stress free and have the penetration needed. Not that anyone would know if you did, but there is no redundancy if there's a failure. And it could be years later that the stresses finally show up suddenly. My vote is to replace, not repair.
Ian
My understanding is that welding on steering parts is verboten. Just too hard to verify that the welds are stress free and have the penetration needed. Not that anyone would know if you did, but there is no redundancy if there's a failure. And it could be years later that the stresses finally show up suddenly. My vote is to replace, not repair.
Ian
Hi Pete.
Need a part number please.
Need a part number please.
i did see one on ebay ill look around yet i would be easy and cost effective to get a sledge hammer
ha
ha
I couldn’t find a part number for the lower shaft. I looked up the upper shaft presuming that the lower shaft is also the same across e3/e9 (since the upper shaft is).
Honestly I appreciate Ian’s concern but I really don’t see a 3/4” shaft failing after being bent. It is turning a hydraulic steering box so there isn’t any real load on the shaft. The only time it would see load is in an accident and it wouldn’t matter if it broke in half (which I doubt it would).
A 20 ton press should straighten it out enough. I don’t see any reason to weld it. There is probably enough slop in the u-joint to make up for lack of perfection.
With that said, Ian’s replacement recommendation is the safest way to go. Nothing scarier than a steering wheel that doesn’t work.
Peter,
no such luck ... i do not have the main shaft, just the adjustable part.
no such luck ... i do not have the main shaft, just the adjustable part.
pm sent
Good man! A whole year? You must be pretty far away from your project to not need parts for a year. How many miles would you say?
Good man! A whole year? You must be pretty far away from your project to not need parts for a year. How many miles would you say?
You want linear over time or radial?
Wladek
Well-Known Member
Part number 32311111965
I agree that there is no better part, than new part.
But, if i can add something - as was said before, there is no much stress straight on that part. The only stress is the power in your hands. Besides, that's why i suggested additional welds (i think TIG will be perfect here).
In cars with hydraulic servo there is no need that part to be very strong. The only stress is when hydraulics are not working (engine is not running), or when someone still want to turn steering wheel left/right when it is already fully turned.
I agree that there is no better part, than new part.
But, if i can add something - as was said before, there is no much stress straight on that part. The only stress is the power in your hands. Besides, that's why i suggested additional welds (i think TIG will be perfect here).
In cars with hydraulic servo there is no need that part to be very strong. The only stress is when hydraulics are not working (engine is not running), or when someone still want to turn steering wheel left/right when it is already fully turned.
Last edited:
That is what I looked up as well. I suppose they don’t treat the two halves of the adjustable lower joint assembly as separate parts. That is what was throwing me off. The arrow points to the female side the lower assembly.