Wiring harness

[fredp]

Does anyone know if there is a source for an E9 wiring harness?
Does anyone produce them new?
Or has anyone got one for sale?
It's for a 73 CSi.

 

[Henrik]

Hi!

Here is a link:

http://www.kabelgross.de/index.php?cat=c3054_BMW-2-5-CS-3-0-CS-CSL.html

Ordered an engine wiring harness for a 3.3i from them. Excelent quality.

 

[fredp]

Thanks for the info Henrik.

On their website they don't show an option for the "injection" motor wiring harness, did you need to do anything special to order it?

 

[arnie]

in the German comunity "Kabel Gross" doesn't have the best reputation. Some rumors in regards to the delivery time and quality. I personally don't have an experience with them.

So it might be just rumors, but an alternative could be a search for a harness at:

kabelbaeume.com

cheers

Ingo

 

[fredp]

Hi Arnie

It appears that - kabelbaeume.com - have a problem with their website contact form, after trying 4 times all I get is an error.
I couldn't find a product listing or a search facility. I really would like to find out about their product, but they don't make it easy.

 

[Henrik]

I had to check the source of the wiring harness again and found that I had ordered it from Walloth (it was four years ago!) The link I sent was one I had added to my favorites at the desktop for later use , I have not bought anything from them so the recommendation is hereby withdrawn. (Still, they can be a good source for all I know?) Sorry for the confusion!
I guess Walloth & Nesch can supply E9 Wiring harness. I paid 235.- euro for my 3.3i Wiring harness for fuel injection in 2009.

I checked the link to Kabelbaume.com (it is .de)

http://www.kabelbaeume.de/index.php?id=10&L=1

Henrik

 

[Mark C]

Replacement Harness

Fredp:

I have just installed a generic muscle car wiring harness from painless performance. I've used the "knowledge base" of this site so much that I think this is worth a post for future coupe owners that might want to go down this path.

My wiring harness was a mess when I bought my coupe. A number of circuits had been "hacked" apart and reassembled in a poor manner. Think "spaghetti surrounding the fuses." It had been baked in inland Orange County CA for many years prior to my purchase, which left the body relatively rust free but made the wiring fairly brittle. I also had a few employees, that should have been kept away from the car, who welded floor pans too close to the wiring and cut some engine compartment wires. At some point I picked up a painless 18 circuit generic muscle car wiring harness. I have a 73 parts car and I began removing that harness to put in my 74. Then I realized that I like the 74 functionality and wanted to retain it (turn signal on the left, intermittent wipers on the stalk etc). That meant the 73 harness would raise its own difficult issues. 6 months ago I decided to finish the coupe and had to decide whether to repair or replace. I decided to put in the painless harness. Knowing what I know now, it would have probably been easier to repair. But I do have 18 circuits, spade style fuses, modern high temperature wiring etc.

A few thoughts from the installation: I ultimately decided to use the painless fuse box and wiring while "grafting" in the instrument cluster, wiper control module, emergency flasher switch and heater /ac wiring. I cut most of the wires in the steering column controls below the connectors (same for the instrument cluster connectors) so that I could keep the circuits intact that feed from one connector to another. I was left with a relatively intact instrument cluster and steering column wiring harness. I went one circuit at a time and studied the coupe wiring closely (a larger full color diagram from prospero's garage was invaluable). I connected the coupe wiring to the painless harness. Without looking at the fuses, there will be no way to distinguish functionality from original. However I did decide to replace the clock with an oil pressure / voltmeter gauge from Hollywood Speedometer partly because I have doubts about the electrical idiot light working properly (those circuits are known to be somewhat unreliable in general and a voltmeter is preferable). I will have both the oil pressure idiot light and a gauge. The dash cluster circuits are difficult. I installed diodes in the wiring for the flasher indicator (the coupe has one flasher indicator instead of left and right so they would cross-feed). The emergency flasher was the most difficult circuit (look at the 74 diagram and tell me the electrical engineer wasn't taking psychedelics). I called painless customer support, emailed them a copy of the BMW wiring diagram and couldn't get any answer. I think they were completely stumped and decided to go radio silent rather than admit defeat. Ultimately, I borrowed a "power probe" (an extremely useful tool--really requisite for a project like this) and was able to figure out which wire was "flashing" and connect it properly. It was a matter of trial and error. That was an awesome moment--just like summiting a peak after a grueling climb.

I am finishing the wiring right now. I've still got to figure out the 74 window motor /switch wiring. I was initially confused by the Hella relay-like box that is in my '74 but not my '73 parts car--I thought it was tied into the window wiring but I think it was actually the USDOT seat belt buzzer / circuit. Sometimes it's like an archeological dig.

For the record, a bit of background: yes, I know I need to register my 74 and my 73 (r.i.p.) in the registry! I will post a better summary of my project with some pics in the project section, but here is a really quick one: purchased a 74 coupe in 2004. Knew it would require some work but had more issues than anticipated (culminating in losing brake pressure while descending a mountain pass at over 100mph--the joys of baked/rotted brake lines--I'm still recovering my nerve after that one--but it was fun before the brake pedal sank to the floor). Wound up buying an e12 for the 5 speed. Found out the 3.5 m30 with weber 38s was troubled. Wound up buying an e32 for the m30b35. Found out that engine also needed a rebuild. Rebuilt it--realizing this was starting to suck. Also picked up triple webers, staggered alpinas, recaros, stahl headers, an m1 steering wheel and chrome bumpers. About that time--maybe 2007--I also picked up an extremely rusty 73 coupe--yes, the 4th car--to use as a parts car for the re-assembly. The project started to drag--with 4 young boys at home, an extensive home remodel and an ugly recession to weather, I had bigger fish to fry. Finally this year, I decided that I want to see the coupe drive again. It's getting closer.

 

[Stan]

a Herculean feat! I have one small grandson that keeps me busy, I can't imagine 4!
Keep us posted
Thanks in advance for registring the cars

 

[Stevehose]

Very impressive, please start it's own thread and post some pics!

Fredp:

I have just installed a generic muscle car wiring harness from painless performance. I've used the "knowledge base" of this site so much that I think this is worth a post for future coupe owners that might want to go down this path.

My wiring harness was a mess when I bought my coupe. A number of circuits had been "hacked" apart and reassembled in a poor manner. Think "spaghetti surrounding the fuses." It had been baked in inland Orange County CA for many years prior to my purchase, which left the body relatively rust free but made the wiring fairly brittle. I also had a few employees, that should have been kept away from the car, who welded floor pans too close to the wiring and cut some engine compartment wires. At some point I picked up a painless 18 circuit generic muscle car wiring harness. I have a 73 parts car and I began removing that harness to put in my 74. Then I realized that I like the 74 functionality and wanted to retain it (turn signal on the left, intermittent wipers on the stalk etc). That meant the 73 harness would raise its own difficult issues. 6 months ago I decided to finish the coupe and had to decide whether to repair or replace. I decided to put in the painless harness. Knowing what I know now, it would have probably been easier to repair. But I do have 18 circuits, spade style fuses, modern high temperature wiring etc.

A few thoughts from the installation: I ultimately decided to use the painless fuse box and wiring while "grafting" in the instrument cluster, wiper control module, emergency flasher switch and heater /ac wiring. I cut most of the wires in the steering column controls below the connectors (same for the instrument cluster connectors) so that I could keep the circuits intact that feed from one connector to another. I was left with a relatively intact instrument cluster and steering column wiring harness. I went one circuit at a time and studied the coupe wiring closely (a larger full color diagram from prospero's garage was invaluable). I connected the coupe wiring to the painless harness. Without looking at the fuses, there will be no way to distinguish functionality from original. However I did decide to replace the clock with an oil pressure / voltmeter gauge from Hollywood Speedometer partly because I have doubts about the electrical idiot light working properly (those circuits are known to be somewhat unreliable in general and a voltmeter is preferable). I will have both the oil pressure idiot light and a gauge. The dash cluster circuits are difficult. I installed diodes in the wiring for the flasher indicator (the coupe has one flasher indicator instead of left and right so they would cross-feed). The emergency flasher was the most difficult circuit (look at the 74 diagram and tell me the electrical engineer wasn't taking psychedelics). I called painless customer support, emailed them a copy of the BMW wiring diagram and couldn't get any answer. I think they were completely stumped and decided to go radio silent rather than admit defeat. Ultimately, I borrowed a "power probe" (an extremely useful tool--really requisite for a project like this) and was able to figure out which wire was "flashing" and connect it properly. It was a matter of trial and error. That was an awesome moment--just like summiting a peak after a grueling climb.

I am finishing the wiring right now. I've still got to figure out the 74 window motor /switch wiring. My diagrams don't match the car. They don't have the black box control unit. I have to figure out whether to somehow integrate the "black box" that was originally there or wire from scratch with a relay for each motor.

For the record, a bit of background: yes, I know I need to register my 74 and my 73 (r.i.p.) in the registry! I will post a better summary of my project with some pics in the project section, but here is a really quick one: purchased a 74 coupe in 2004. Knew it would require some work but had more issues than anticipated (culminating in losing brake pressure while descending a mountain pass at over 100mph--the joys of baked/rotted brake lines--I'm still recovering my nerve after that one--but it was fun before the brake pedal sank to the floor). Wound up buying an e12 for the 5 speed. Found out the 3.5 m30 with weber 38s was troubled. Wound up buying an e32 for the m30b35. Found out that engine also needed a rebuild. Rebuilt it--realizing this was starting to suck. Also picked up triple webers, staggered alpinas, recaros, stahl headers, an m1 steering wheel and chrome bumpers. About that time--maybe 2007--I also picked up an extremely rusty 73 coupe--yes, the 4th car--to use as a parts car for the re-assembly. The project started to drag--with 4 young boys at home, an extensive home remodel and an ugly recession to weather, I had bigger fish to fry. Finally this year, I decided that I want to see the coupe drive again. It's getting closer.

 

[shanon]

+1 for Painless

Although not 'correct', I have been very, very pleased with my harness conversion to a Painless wiring system. I too had a major wiring mess and started over.

I run a Painless 12 circuit system. Car is carb'd and very simplified with toggle switches (has manual & fixed windows, no heater/AC units) and have a couple circuits left over. They offer a 18 circuit system to support more bells and whistles. Tech support was good. Blew a head light fuse once and with its modern fuse system, fuses are available at any gas station in the middle of the night...

I bet you could put the CS switch nobs on some of the Painless switches if you wanted (wipers?!). ;-)

 

[SkiFast]

Replacement Harness

Fredp:

I have just installed a generic muscle car wiring harness from painless performance. I've used the "knowledge base" of this site so much that I think this is worth a post for future coupe owners that might want to go down this path.

My wiring harness was a mess when I bought my coupe. A number of circuits had been "hacked" apart and reassembled in a poor manner. Think "spaghetti surrounding the fuses." It had been baked in inland Orange County CA for many years prior to my purchase, which left the body relatively rust free but made the wiring fairly brittle. I also had a few employees, that should have been kept away from the car, who welded floor pans too close to the wiring and cut some engine compartment wires. At some point I picked up a painless 18 circuit generic muscle car wiring harness. I have a 73 parts car and I began removing that harness to put in my 74. Then I realized that I like the 74 functionality and wanted to retain it (turn signal on the left, intermittent wipers on the stalk etc). That meant the 73 harness would raise its own difficult issues. 6 months ago I decided to finish the coupe and had to decide whether to repair or replace. I decided to put in the painless harness. Knowing what I know now, it would have probably been easier to repair. But I do have 18 circuits, spade style fuses, modern high temperature wiring etc.

A few thoughts from the installation: I ultimately decided to use the painless fuse box and wiring while "grafting" in the instrument cluster, wiper control module, emergency flasher switch and heater /ac wiring. I cut most of the wires in the steering column controls below the connectors (same for the instrument cluster connectors) so that I could keep the circuits intact that feed from one connector to another. I was left with a relatively intact instrument cluster and steering column wiring harness. I went one circuit at a time and studied the coupe wiring closely (a larger full color diagram from prospero's garage was invaluable). I connected the coupe wiring to the painless harness. Without looking at the fuses, there will be no way to distinguish functionality from original. However I did decide to replace the clock with an oil pressure / voltmeter gauge from Hollywood Speedometer partly because I have doubts about the electrical idiot light working properly (those circuits are known to be somewhat unreliable in general and a voltmeter is preferable). I will have both the oil pressure idiot light and a gauge. The dash cluster circuits are difficult. I installed diodes in the wiring for the flasher indicator (the coupe has one flasher indicator instead of left and right so they would cross-feed). The emergency flasher was the most difficult circuit (look at the 74 diagram and tell me the electrical engineer wasn't taking psychedelics). I called painless customer support, emailed them a copy of the BMW wiring diagram and couldn't get any answer. I think they were completely stumped and decided to go radio silent rather than admit defeat. Ultimately, I borrowed a "power probe" (an extremely useful tool--really requisite for a project like this) and was able to figure out which wire was "flashing" and connect it properly. It was a matter of trial and error. That was an awesome moment--just like summiting a peak after a grueling climb.

I am finishing the wiring right now. I've still got to figure out the 74 window motor /switch wiring. I was initially confused by the Hella relay-like box that is in my '74 but not my '73 parts car--I thought it was tied into the window wiring but I think it was actually the USDOT seat belt buzzer / circuit. Sometimes it's like an archeological dig.

For the record, a bit of background: yes, I know I need to register my 74 and my 73 (r.i.p.) in the registry! I will post a better summary of my project with some pics in the project section, but here is a really quick one: purchased a 74 coupe in 2004. Knew it would require some work but had more issues than anticipated (culminating in losing brake pressure while descending a mountain pass at over 100mph--the joys of baked/rotted brake lines--I'm still recovering my nerve after that one--but it was fun before the brake pedal sank to the floor). Wound up buying an e12 for the 5 speed. Found out the 3.5 m30 with weber 38s was troubled. Wound up buying an e32 for the m30b35. Found out that engine also needed a rebuild. Rebuilt it--realizing this was starting to suck. Also picked up triple webers, staggered alpinas, recaros, stahl headers, an m1 steering wheel and chrome bumpers. About that time--maybe 2007--I also picked up an extremely rusty 73 coupe--yes, the 4th car--to use as a parts car for the re-assembly. The project started to drag--with 4 young boys at home, an extensive home remodel and an ugly recession to weather, I had bigger fish to fry. Finally this year, I decided that I want to see the coupe drive again. It's getting closer.

That was more entertaining than most novels! Any insight to what you would do now?

 

[sfdon]

RHD or LHD?
Engine harness or complete harness?

 

[SkiFast]

Don, that was a post from 2013, but I'm exploring a rebuild (or buy if I can find it) for a LHD 71' 3.0cs Euro.
1. What I dont know is the differences for the two, maybe the 4w lowbeam light and the rear fog light?
2. Would it be worth exploring the 74' harness with intermitten wipers? Is it posssible?
3. Should I stick with 55w bulbs? I don't see myself doing much night driving, but winters in Seattle get dark and wet.

 

[Rob F]

I have bought a complete wiring loom for my RHD CSL from Auto Sparks in the UK
you can find them at www.autosparks.co.uk

 

[sfdon]

Euro cars use H1 bulbs in euro lamps
USA cars use sealed beams
Euro cars use 4 w bulbs in the low beam lamps
and no side markers
Euro cars have rear fog lights

No idea about wiper circuit- I wouldn’t touch that!

Many people focus on making sure their bulbs get good voltage. Start there.

 

[HB Chris]

I wouldn’t try to use a 74 harness in an earlier car, too many things changed including low beam relay, relay position under dash, wiring gauge, etc. It is super easy to add euro lo beam and city light or just use the H4 Hellas. And you don’t need more than 55w for the low beam and 60w for hi beam.

 

[SkiFast]

I wouldn’t try to use a 74 harness in an earlier car, too many things changed including low beam relay, relay position under dash, wiring gauge, etc. It is super easy to add euro lo beam and city light or just use the H4 Hellas. And you don’t need more than 55w for the low beam and 60w for hi beam.

Thanks Chris & Don. What is interesting about Rob F's site (autospark) is that they (according to their site) take your old harness and completely rewire it while using the original connectors. In short, it's what I would do so its the exact same with new wire. I'll inquire further.

 

[tronch]

+1 Painless
I just finish new wiring with Painless 28 circuit classic customizable, it works great and fuse box is much better and safe than original.
if someone need help just ask

 

[SkiFast]

Can you tell me more? Do they do the wiring or sell a kit? How much did it cost? Do they recycle the old connectors? Does the new fuse box easily fit?

 

[tronch]

Ok, I bought the painless 10202 painless circuit.You have to identify circuits and use old connectors. For the windshield wipers use the old wiring plus relay.
main mess is to identify gauge cluster lights but not difficult.
Add relays to windows, defrost rear glass and any other you want.
Fuse box in the same place making new holes for holding.
I will make some photos in few days if needed