vapor lock question

Tundra

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Is there a way to get rid of gas vapor lock immediately or do you need to wait it out until everything cools down?
For example, would disconnecting the fuel line between the fuel pump and carburetors and starting the car release the vapor lock?
This is the second time it happened in so many months. I'm in Florida and had over 90 temperature yesterday causing the problem. It started right up this morning. Does not happen in 70-80 degree weather.
Would installing an electric fuel pump in the trunk by the tank solve the problem. Where does that vapor lock occur? Fuel line from the tank, fuel line by engine or fuel pump itself? I have a mechanical fuel pump.
 

Stevehose

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Weber or original Zenith carbs?

Is there a way to get rid of gas vapor lock immediately or do you need to wait it out until everything cools down?
For example, would disconnecting the fuel line between the fuel pump and carburetors and starting the car release the vapor lock?
This is the second time it happened in so many months. I'm in Florida and had over 90 temperature yesterday causing the problem. It started right up this morning. Does not happen in 70-80 degree weather.
Would installing an electric fuel pump in the trunk by the tank solve the problem. Where does that vapor lock occur? Fuel line from the tank, fuel line by engine or fuel pump itself? I have a mechanical fuel pump.
 

Tundra

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vapor loc

should have mentioned, not Zenith, have Webers, believe they are DGV 40 if I remember correctly.

Thanks for asking
 

jmackro

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Is there a way to get rid of gas vapor lock immediately or do you need to wait it out until everything cools down?

I don't think of vapor lock in those terms. My sense is that if a car is prone to vapor locking, it is going to happen. You can't simply "unlock it" and have it last long enough to get you home (unless a thunderstorm or sunset radically cools the temperature).

Would installing an electric fuel pump in the trunk by the tank solve the problem. Where does that vapor lock occur?

The fuel typically vaporizes where it is being "pulled" rather than "pushed". So on a stock, carbureted e9, that is in the line between the tank and the fuel pump. So yes, putting an electric pump near the tank minimizes the length of the line under vacuum (e.g., getting "pulled").
 

MyFemurHurts

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My Coupe with Weber 32/36 DGAV's vapor locks on hot days as well. I just use a trick from aviation and crank it with my foot the floor, and pull the power the second it catches.
 

Stevehose

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Some downdraft webers have a reputation for vapor locking (or whatever), Femur's sugestion seems to work so give that a try.
 

lloyd

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Forgive me for being direct but if you are asking where vapor lock occurs, perhaps you are experiencing some other type of fuel starvation. And, since your post did not state when the suspected vapor lock occurs, be it while driving or after the car has been sitting, I will guess it is the latter.

Vapor lock typically describes a situation where the liquid fuel has vaporized and thus presents an impediment to the normal fuel supply stream. This can occurs when the fuel is heated (usually by close proximity to a hot engine in hot weather). Marginal fuel supply can also be an indication of a weak or failing fuel pump. This can be exacerbated by restrictions in the fuel delivery system including a plugged in-line filter or the gauze in-tank pickup filter or even a kinked fuel line.


As noted, vapor lock is apt to occur in the presence of heat, so it can occur both before and aft of the fuel pump, usually confined to the engine bay. (Running fuel line near the exhaust could also create vapor, but this scenario seems far fetched here.) Much depends upon how your fuel line is routed, be it close to hot manifolds or even in the direct line of radiator exhaust. Before going further, it is also possible that the fuel in one or both of your carburetors fuel bowls is evaporating aka "boiling off" after the hot car has been allowed to sit for a while. This unlikely scenario could occur if the float levels are too low, carb base "isolator" gaskets are too thin, engine operating temperatures are above normal, or you are using an exotic fuel blend that is more volatile than normal pump gas.



There are several things you can try to determine the source of the problem.

Establish your normal engine operating temperature when the problem occurs. Is the temp gauge in the red? If everything is cooking, that could include your fuel. There are several measures for reducing engine operating temperature that goes beyond the scope of this post.

Measure the fuel pressure before and after the pump, cold and hot - with a simple vacuum gauge. If the pressure is low (less than 2 ft lbs) you may just have a weak or failing pump. There are other ways to test the pump, with your finger over the inlet and outlet but for obvious reasons, I don't advise it.

Carefully examine your fuel lines for blockage. I am thinking of the inlet mesh filter that sits in the tank and any inline filters. At different stages you should be able to blow through the lines or use a small air pump to roughly gauge this. Too much resistance can indicate the source or contributing source of your problem.

Try relocating the fuel line away from any obvious heat sources, or create heat barriers. You could insert commercially available fuel heat sinks. I have even seen aluminum foil used as a heat sink, but cannot attest to its effectiveness.


Although an electric pump could not hurt, considering you are feeding two carburettors, I have found it unnecessary on my carburetor-equipped cars, except for one occasion when the mechanical fuel pump failed - on the road (in Florida).


HTH




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Tundra

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The fuel typically vaporizes where it is being "pulled" rather than "pushed". So on a stock, carbureted e9, that is in the line between the tank and the fuel pump. So yes, putting an electric pump near the tank minimizes the length of the line under vacuum (e.g., getting "pulled").

Is the mechanical and electric fuel pump an either/or? That is, can I install an electric fuel pump in the trunk and keep the fuel lines hooked to the mechanical pump? I'm asking because if I don't use the car for a week or so it takes a while for the fuel to reach the carburetors with the mechanical pump before the car starts. I think that would solve that problem as well. No?

I have tried Femur's suggestion yesterday but it was getting to the point I was afraid to drain the battery.
 

Tundra

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Thanks Lloyd for all the info. To answer your question, both times it happened, yesterday and 2 months ago the outside temperature was 90+. Both times it happened after I had driven the car for about 45 minutes then parked for 1/2 hour. Get back to the car, it started right up and then stalled. It didn't happen while driving.
 

lloyd

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T Both times it happened after I had driven the car for about 45 minutes then parked for 1/2 hour. Get back to the car, it started right up and then stalled. It didn't happen while driving.

You certainly could be experiencing fuel starvation due to vapor lock since the problem occurs while driving. But I would not automatically rule out a weak fuel pump unable to surmount a slight amount of fuel vapor or some of the other possibilities mentioned.


Another remote possibility could be the fuel line/hose. IF, you are using the original style fabric-covered fuel hose it could be showing its age with micro cracks and abrasions. Fuel contained in this worn line might be more susceptible to vaporization than newer heavier hose.


CrackedBreatherHose.jpg
 

Tundra

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Thanks JMackro and Lloyd for your suggestions. I will try to fix that hot weather gremlin.
 
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