Useo of Alternative to OEM Headlamp Dimmer Switch?

[Pophamrt]

First post here, and I just want to say thanks for maintaining such a great place to exchange info.

I'm fighting a #2 fuse blow when full illumination is dialed into the dimmer for the instrument illumination on a '72 3.0CS.

There's a reference in the archives to a replacement part no. 61311377281 from Bav Auto. Its only $35 or so, compared to $180 for the part listed in BMW's parts system, 61311355791. But it appears to have a different connector style. (See below)

Could someone who has installed it chime in on the installation--was it necessary to cut the factory block off to adapt?

TIA

http://i12.ebayimg.com/01/i/000/f7/23/2ced_1.JPG

 

[Pophamrt]

First post here, and I just want to say thanks for maintaining such a great place to exchange info.

I'm fighting a #2 fuse blow when full illumination is dialed into the dimmer for the instrument illumination on a '72 3.0CS.

There's a reference in the archives to a replacement part no. 61311377281 from Bav Auto. Its only $35 or so, compared to $180 for the part listed in BMW's parts system, 61311355791. But it appears to have a different connector style. (See below)

Could someone who has installed it chime in on the installation--was it necessary to cut the factory block off to adapt?

TIA

http://i12.ebayimg.com/01/i/000/f7/23/2ced_1.JPG

 

[pmansson]

I don´t agree with the part# and high price.
I have replaced several, usually due to the spiral spring in the dimming function breaking, but yesterday due to the nut molded into the plastic knob coming loose inside (I ended up cutting the axle to be able to withdraw the long black dashboard piece in order to remove the instrument cluster).

Anyway; my W&N parts book says 6131 1 350 151 and they sell it for EUR 40. (W&N is Walloth & Nesch in Germany)

 

[pmansson]

I don´t agree with the part# and high price.
I have replaced several, usually due to the spiral spring in the dimming function breaking, but yesterday due to the nut molded into the plastic knob coming loose inside (I ended up cutting the axle to be able to withdraw the long black dashboard piece in order to remove the instrument cluster).

Anyway; my W&N parts book says 6131 1 350 151 and they sell it for EUR 40. (W&N is Walloth & Nesch in Germany)

 

[Pophamrt]

Looks like a short--switch is good...

Thanks for the input on the switch availability. But, when pulled it tested fine. It looks like its a short further-on in the wiring of the dash cluster lights. I isolated the cluster illumination wire from the dimmer (grey/blue) and it clearly goes to ground somewhere.

Checking the dimmer potentiometer switch with an ohm meter showed 0 to 1.0 variance between positions 58a and 58b as the pot is rotated, so its okay. All other functions work fine. If anyone runs into this in the future, here's the wiring color and spade connector numbering on the switch...

Spade #/Color/Function:

56/yellow-white/headlights
K/grey/license plate and rear side markers
58L/grey-black/left side parking lights
58R/grey-green/right side parking lights
58a/license plate and rear side markers (feeds 58b)
58b/grey-blue/dash illumination via potentiometer in switch
15/green/hot (+) with ignition on
30/red/hot (+) at all times
57 Unused

The short in my CS appears to be in the grey-blue wiring which apparently runs to the turn signal plug connector #57 and then position #70 "soldering joint" in the wiring diagram, where the line splits to the individual gauge lights. Hopefully I can isolate it without pulling the dash cluster or going blind reading the wiring diagram (could it be smaller?).

Thanks for the input.

 

[Pophamrt]

Looks like a short--switch is good...

Thanks for the input on the switch availability. But, when pulled it tested fine. It looks like its a short further-on in the wiring of the dash cluster lights. I isolated the cluster illumination wire from the dimmer (grey/blue) and it clearly goes to ground somewhere.

Checking the dimmer potentiometer switch with an ohm meter showed 0 to 1.0 variance between positions 58a and 58b as the pot is rotated, so its okay. All other functions work fine. If anyone runs into this in the future, here's the wiring color and spade connector numbering on the switch...

Spade #/Color/Function:

56/yellow-white/headlights
K/grey/license plate and rear side markers
58L/grey-black/left side parking lights
58R/grey-green/right side parking lights
58a/license plate and rear side markers (feeds 58b)
58b/grey-blue/dash illumination via potentiometer in switch
15/green/hot (+) with ignition on
30/red/hot (+) at all times
57 Unused

The short in my CS appears to be in the grey-blue wiring which apparently runs to the turn signal plug connector #57 and then position #70 "soldering joint" in the wiring diagram, where the line splits to the individual gauge lights. Hopefully I can isolate it without pulling the dash cluster or going blind reading the wiring diagram (could it be smaller?).

Thanks for the input.

 

[Arde]

Re: Looks like a short--switch is good...

The short in my CS appears to be in the grey-blue wiring which apparently runs to the turn signal plug connector #57 and then position #70 "soldering joint" in the wiring diagram, where the line splits to the individual gauge lights.

I think it actually runs to the ignition switch illumination bulb not the turn signal stalk, and to the gauge lights. If you really have a short you should have no illumination in the instruments or switch. The gauge bulbs are kind of daisy chained starting at the instrument (fuel/temp). Unplugging that instrument would be a good test, or maybe just unplugging the illumination bulbs one by one so that they are deprived of their ground. They slide in and out.

If you have partial illumination with the dimmer mid way then it cannot be a short, it is just current overload.

 

[Arde]

Re: Looks like a short--switch is good...

The short in my CS appears to be in the grey-blue wiring which apparently runs to the turn signal plug connector #57 and then position #70 "soldering joint" in the wiring diagram, where the line splits to the individual gauge lights.

I think it actually runs to the ignition switch illumination bulb not the turn signal stalk, and to the gauge lights. If you really have a short you should have no illumination in the instruments or switch. The gauge bulbs are kind of daisy chained starting at the instrument (fuel/temp). Unplugging that instrument would be a good test, or maybe just unplugging the illumination bulbs one by one so that they are deprived of their ground. They slide in and out.

If you have partial illumination with the dimmer mid way then it cannot be a short, it is just current overload.

 

[Pophamrt]

Problem Solved... Short at ignition switch illumination...

Turned out to be a short at the ignition illumination bulb, right under the turn signal. The blue-grey wire there apparently hung out of position allowing it to be pinched between the two steering column pieces as they were tightened. Everything works fine again.

Thanks for all the input--very helpful.

 

[Pophamrt]

Problem Solved... Short at ignition switch illumination...

Turned out to be a short at the ignition illumination bulb, right under the turn signal. The blue-grey wire there apparently hung out of position allowing it to be pinched between the two steering column pieces as they were tightened. Everything works fine again.

Thanks for all the input--very helpful.

 

[Arde]

Great.
Not sure now if the board saved you $35 or $180

 

[Arde]

Great.
Not sure now if the board saved you $35 or $180