Tips for the weekend warrior restorer

Bmachine

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I thought it would be good to assemble some tips or recomendations aimed at those who are thinking of embarking on a restoration project as a part time / weekend activity only in one thread. Those weekend warriors who do not have a permanent shop and who are doing this strictly as a fun project.
Please feel free to add bullet points from your experiences.

- Before starting any dismantling project have the engine bay fully professionally steam cleaned top and bottom. It will save you major irritation, time and money in the long run.

- Buy a box of disposable latex gloves and alwasy use them. Think of Edd China's famous orange ones...

- Buy a good quality 3M protection eye glasses with the flat side branches so they can be used under an ear protection headset. (3M Virtua Protective Eyewear)

- Before starting any project during the weekend, do a search on this board and read all of the posts about it during the previous week. There is a gold mine of information here that will save you hours and many dollars

- Make your worst case scenario best guesstimate on how long your project will take and how much it will cost. Then double it. If you are really lucky it will only be double.

- Realize that, unless you already have a well-equipped shop that can be left in work mode all the time, doing the restoration yourself will likely not save you much if any money at all in the end. By the time you get the tools you need, make all the mistakes one does the first time, have to re-order parts because you ordered the wrong ones, pay for shipping all those one item at a time, drive all over to pick things up or drop parts off, the final bill keeps creeping up in very insiduous ways. And if you ever decide to sell it later on, your car will be worth less to a new buyer then if it had the stamp of approval of well known shop X, Y or Z. The value is in the learning, enjoyment and satisfaction of doing it yourself. Not in any hypothetical savings.

- Pick a small number of sources from which you will buy your parts. And be faithful to them. Most of these parts are difficult to get and expensive to keep in stock for vendors. So we are lucky to have them and constantly switching to find an imagined savings of a few dollars is going to cost you and all of us in the long run. For example personally I try to stick with La Jolla, W&N, and BMW of South Atlanta for dealer only stuff. But there are others of course.

- Buying a cheap tool for something you will only do once DOES make sense. Even though the old adage of buying the best tool for the job and cry only once is great in theory, sometimes it is just not financially possible. And if it's only to be used once, a Harbor Freight tool may make your life much easier for this one task.

- Before starting on a specific project always print out the realoem schematic and a list of all the torque settings that will be needed prior to heading to the garage. Much faster and cheaper then realizing you assembled something in the wrong order later on.

- Before starting the reassembly, order an assortment of metric 8.8 nuts and bolts such as the one from W&N. It will save frustration and wasted time trying to look for the old ones and having to spend time cleaning them up.
 

Nicad

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Great list, hopefully it gets added to. I'd add to have an organic vapour filter for when dealing with solvents and sprays as well as a dust mask. Killer good light, and a magnetic pickup tool, as well as lots of Zip lock bags.
 

Bmachine

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Great addition. Please allow me to reformat for layout consistency:

- organic vapour filter for when dealing with solvents and sprays

- dust mask

- Killer good light

- a magnetic pickup tool,

- lots of Zip lock bags.
 

Bmachine

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a lift , a decent air compressor and... some beer :)
Great suggestions Barry. But, again, this is for the weekend warrior. In my case, that means that on Sunday night, I have to spend at least an hour putting everything away and cleaning the garage so my wife can bring her car in her half of our two car garage. So, unless you mean a floor jack, a lift is not really an option in those cases. I find an air compressor very helpful for sand blasting and powder coating. But it is also very noisy, cumbersome and can take a fair bit of room. Most air powered tools can also be had in electric form and for a weekend mechanic, I personally think that makes more sense.
The third part, however, definitely fits on the list!!!
 
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mulberryworks

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I'm going to second the vote for a lift if you can swing the price and the space. Either a scissor lift like Rob Siegel has, or a MaxJax like I have. I haven't started the coupe restoration, but it has been very helpful with the other cars. It's not cheap at $1200 via Costco ($2300 via other online retailers), but I figure I'll be able to get most of that back when I'm done with the restoration. It's going to make the rust repairs so much easier and the time and increased ease will be worth it. It has been for the other car work I've done so far.

Ian
 

JFENG

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Drive-on four post lifts fit into one bay of a two car garage ($2000). When equipped with one or two bridge jacks they are ok for doing repairs despite not being as convenient as a two post lift. I like this solution because when the car is all the way up you have the full bay below as a work area. I keep my mess on a rolling work bench so it’s 5 min to clean up my wife’s half of the garage.
 

autokunst

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I'll add a vote for a lift. After all, we're talking about "restoring" a car - you gotta have the right tools. And I concur with the benefits of the four post lift - this typology might make a difference in a small, part time garage stall. And once you are done, you can store your weekend war machine above your daily driver on the lift and get 3-cars into the space of 2.
 

Belgiumbarry

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i don't know how i ever did it without a lift.... ok, i'm 61 and a bad back.....
wheels off takes 5 minutes... standing straight :)
 

Markos

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I can’t get a lift because I won’t have room for a rotisserie (which I don’t have room for either)
 

bavbob

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I view the car as four separate quadrants and work on one at a time. I always leave the contralateral side as a reference. EX. I just disassembled the driver's side front seat for reupholstering. I left the other side intact cause at my age, I am just not going to remember. Sure you can take pictures but only DeQ can take photos, do a job and end up with a clean camera and clean nails.
 

mulberryworks

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i don't know how i ever did it without a lift.... ok, i'm 61 and a bad back.....
wheels off takes 5 minutes... standing straight :)

Yeah, I'm going to be 60 in a few months, and I've had occasional back issues so I'm very glad to have machines do the heavy lifting. I try to limit myself to 50# lifts to stay safe. I helped Peter put the engine in his Polaris car (that's my video he posted) and so I'm looking forward to the R&R of my engine and transmission that way as well.
Lying under a car and having crap fall in your face is the pits. A lifted car changes the equation in your favor.

Ian
 

Gazz

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Make up a strong solid topped mobile bench with lockable castors that you can move in and out and around your work space easily and bolt on a multi angle vise / mini anvil. Can't have enough bench space.

A small bench grinder / polisher. This is perhaps my most used tool. Get one that is not too powerful so you don't burn or damage pieces - one where you are in control of it rather than it in control of you.
 

Peter Coomaraswamy

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Regarding to "lift or not to lift", you can get by without one but you have to be very methodical in your work and do get the very best high-lift floor jack and stands you can. If you're not doing major restoration work you probably don't want the car that high in the air anyhow.

That being said, I don't think anyone who has a lift would ever think of working on a car without one.

My addition to the list however is... a power brake bleeder! you will need it on your BMW and almost every other car you work on and I'm not talking about one of those pistol pumps, but a good tank that hooks up to your master reservoir you will never have to pedal pump your brakes again!! Cost: 100-200 dollars :)
 
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