The end is near....SCOTTeVEST's Baby

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JFENG

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FWIW my big parts hero’s are Harry and big Al. They always manage to find what I need, are honest about condition and pricing, and are just nice folks. Perhaps less well known than Harry’s heath challenges is Al’s long battle with addiction. Addiction to racing and Italian cars from Milano (that rust as quickly as our E9’s).
John
 

scottevest

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"The 74 has the larger 22mm bar vs. 17mm on earlier coupes"

Going from to 28mm still made a noticeable difference for me, and this was just upgrading the bars (springs and shocks done previously). I think Scott will be happy with this upgrade. If he's not, he can swap back and sell the bars to another forum member.

So, you are saying the front anti-sway stock is 22mm and you recommend upgrading to 28mm in front, and/or in back too, or am I confusing things? I sent Carl and email asking for his input too.
 

scottevest

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tell them they are wrong. if they tighten the nuts on the belt trim too tightly, the paint will ripple ... and its not as tight as you might think. see the pic below. the shims from Carl don't stop this but greatly diminish the possibility of this happening. Chris is also correct, wait as long as you can before putting the belt trim on and this will also greatly diminish the possibility

I will again mention to Gary/Benny, but believe they know what they are doing when it comes to this sort of stuff. Going to buy the belt trim spacers anyway and just give to them to install. How long do you typically let the paint cure?
 

adawil2002

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I will again mention to Gary/Benny, but believe they know what they are doing when it comes to this sort of stuff. Going to buy the belt trim spacers anyway and just give to them to install. How long do you typically let the paint cure?

Paint cure depends on heat, humidity and barometric pressure.

Usually if they crank up the heat in the paint booth to 120 or higher the paint will cure faster, yet still off gas for 6-7 months. So no waxes polymer sealing products or soap.
 

Gary Knox

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Scott,

I noticed on the final part of your most recent video that Gary was telling you if you used wider tires on the wider rear wheels, then tire rotation wouldn't work. Actually, because you have 8" rear wheels and 7" front wheels, rotation would never be reasonable (and depending on their offset, it might not even be possible to mount the 8" wheels on the front).

We put wider rear wheels on our cars because the driving force is totally applied through the rear wheel/tires. Then with wider tires, we can use slightly lower (maybe a couple of pounds) air pressure in the rear to give a bit more rubber contacting the road surface. This type wheel arrangement is often referred to as 'staggered' wheels.

Since you already have the wider rear wheels, and those tires have never been driven on, IF you can return those two tires and get the wider width that are actually more suitable for the wider wheels, your whole suspension/drive system will be more typical of what provides better performance/handling.

Gary-
 

JFENG

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My '74 came with the following stock bars:
Front: 22mm (measures about 23mm due to paint thickness)
Rear 17mm (measurems 18mm due to paint thickness)

The sportier setup (to be installed in pairs)
Front: 28.5mm
Rear: 22mm

Paint curing: everyone is correct when they warn you that due to the way BMW E9 side trim is designed, it is likely to tear your brand new paint if you install it too soon or don't use those spacers that Benny sais are not needed. Unless your guy Benny has done a bunch of E9's before, he probably doesn't know this. Back in the day, lots of people shot lacquer, which off gases and cures quickly and dries pretty hard. Modern urethanes are different. Some will argue that there's a way to install the trim to avoid this. In point of fact, a LONG LONG time ago I painted both an E3 and a 2002 myself in Dupont Urethane Enample (glass/trim off, near bare metal). I didn't have any problems with the side trim tearing the new paint. But I believe I got lucky in that
(a) I tried to orient each piece of trim to be centered in the mount holds so when I tightened the nut on the back side the trim would not move up or down. On an E9, this requires 2 people. And you can't really crank down on the nut too hard.
(b) I 'waited' at least 2 weeks before reinstalling the trim. It really wasn't waiting because I needed time wet sand and polished, install glass, and was only working on the cars during weekends. A production shop might paint and try to assembly within a couple days.
(b) BTW, E3 trim is totally different than E9 trim in that it has a rubber back piece so the metal part of the trim doesn't touch the paint.

You are spending enough money that there's no harm to be careful. It's not like you are signed up for Peking/Paris and have to put the car on a plane to hit some tight deadline. Just take it easy and don't rush it.
As long as the shop has the floor space, just wait as long as possible before installing the belt-line trim, and don't go gorilla on the nuts.
 

scottevest

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Scott,

I noticed on the final part of your most recent video that Gary was telling you if you used wider tires on the wider rear wheels, then tire rotation wouldn't work. Actually, because you have 8" rear wheels and 7" front wheels, rotation would never be reasonable (and depending on their offset, it might not even be possible to mount the 8" wheels on the front).

We put wider rear wheels on our cars because the driving force is totally applied through the rear wheel/tires. Then with wider tires, we can use slightly lower (maybe a couple of pounds) air pressure in the rear to give a bit more rubber contacting the road surface. This type wheel arrangement is often referred to as 'staggered' wheels.

Since you already have the wider rear wheels, and those tires have never been driven on, IF you can return those two tires and get the wider width that are actually more suitable for the wider wheels, your whole suspension/drive system will be more typical of what provides better performance/handling.

Gary-

The tires I bought are below. What size do you recommend me get and which ones to return? I am asking Tire Rack if I can return since not used at all. Is this a big deal if I don't swap out?


Size & Description Qty Availability Price Each Item Total
205/55R-16 FIRESTONE FIREHAWK INDY 500 SL
DOWNLOAD WARRANTY BROCHURE PDF
2 In Stock $81.92 $163.84

To make a claim, please contact the Road Hazard Program Administrator | (855) 623-0468
www.tirerack.com/roadhazard
225/50R-16 FIRESTONE FIREHAWK INDY 500 SL
DOWNLOAD WARRANTY BROCHURE PDF
2 In Stock $92.92
 

scottevest

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My '74 came with the following stock bars:
Front: 22mm (measures about 23mm due to paint thickness)
Rear 17mm (measurems 18mm due to paint thickness)

The sportier setup (to be installed in pairs)
Front: 28.5mm
Rear: 22mm

Paint curing: everyone is correct when they warn you that due to the way BMW E9 side trim is designed, it is likely to tear your brand new paint if you install it too soon or don't use those spacers that Benny sais are not needed. Unless your guy Benny has done a bunch of E9's before, he probably doesn't know this. Back in the day, lots of people shot lacquer, which off gases and cures quickly and dries pretty hard. Modern urethanes are different. Some will argue that there's a way to install the trim to avoid this. In point of fact, a LONG LONG time ago I painted both an E3 and a 2002 myself in Dupont Urethane Enample (glass/trim off, near bare metal). I didn't have any problems with the side trim tearing the new paint. But I believe I got lucky in that
(a) I tried to orient each piece of trim to be centered in the mount holds so when I tightened the nut on the back side the trim would not move up or down. On an E9, this requires 2 people. And you can't really crank down on the nut too hard.
(b) I 'waited' at least 2 weeks before reinstalling the trim. It really wasn't waiting because I needed time wet sand and polished, install glass, and was only working on the cars during weekends. A production shop might paint and try to assembly within a couple days.
(b) BTW, E3 trim is totally different than E9 trim in that it has a rubber back piece so the metal part of the trim doesn't touch the paint.

You are spending enough money that there's no harm to be careful. It's not like you are signed up for Peking/Paris and have to put the car on a plane to hit some tight deadline. Just take it easy and don't rush it.
As long as the shop has the floor space, just wait as long as possible before installing the belt-line trim, and don't go gorilla on the nuts.


Thanks MUCH for the information.
I am a bit confused. Did 74 come stock with rear anti-sway bars? Gary said I had none, but that makes no sense if your came with stock rear anti-sway bars. What am I missing?

I agree about the paint curing. I will pass this information on to Gary/Benny and order trim spaces from Carl, along with stickers and possibly anti-sway bars just in case.

Thanks.
 

Dohn

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Scott, Was just watching F1 from Melbourne and saw an ad for ScotteVest. Looks like a great garment, and I hope the ad helps offset your "mission creep" on this project. Your car will be outstanding!
 

scottevest

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Scott, Was just watching F1 from Melbourne and saw an ad for ScotteVest. Looks like a great garment, and I hope the ad helps offset your "mission creep" on this project. Your car will be outstanding!
#metoo
Thanks. The ads have been very effective so yes, it is helping to finance this project, thank god!
 

scottevest

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Paint cure depends on heat, humidity and barometric pressure.

Usually if they crank up the heat in the paint booth to 120 or higher the paint will cure faster, yet still off gas for 6-7 months. So no waxes polymer sealing products or soap.


No soap for 6 months?
 

Markos

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The tires I bought are below. What size do you recommend me get and which ones to return? I am asking Tire Rack if I can return since not used at all. Is this a big deal if I don't swap out?


Size & Description Qty Availability Price Each Item Total
205/55R-16 FIRESTONE FIREHAWK INDY 500 SL
DOWNLOAD WARRANTY BROCHURE PDF
2 In Stock $81.92 $163.84

To make a claim, please contact the Road Hazard Program Administrator | (855) 623-0468
www.tirerack.com/roadhazard
225/50R-16 FIRESTONE FIREHAWK INDY 500 SL
DOWNLOAD WARRANTY BROCHURE PDF
2 In Stock $92.92

Scott,

You purchase BBS RS005 front and rear. All four wheels are 16x7. You have the correct matching tires, and you can rotate them as needed. I made mention of this a few pages back. Both you and @adawil2002 have the same BBS setup, and you both drive your coupe long distances. Normally I would argue for 8” rears but in your case a square set of wheels/tires make sense.
 

rsporsche

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Scott, Was just watching F1 from Melbourne and saw an ad for ScotteVest. Looks like a great garment, and I hope the ad helps offset your "mission creep" on this project. Your car will be outstanding!
i have a Scottevest coat that i wear all the time. they are great when traveling overseas - separate pockets to put your wallet in, your phone, your passport, etc. and the location doesn't telegraph to the outside. thanks Scott!
 

rsporsche

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The tires I bought are below. What size do you recommend me get and which ones to return? I am asking Tire Rack if I can return since not used at all. Is this a big deal if I don't swap out?


Size & Description Qty Availability Price Each Item Total
205/55R-16 FIRESTONE FIREHAWK INDY 500 SL
DOWNLOAD WARRANTY BROCHURE PDF
2 In Stock $81.92 $163.84

To make a claim, please contact the Road Hazard Program Administrator | (855) 623-0468
www.tirerack.com/roadhazard
225/50R-16 FIRESTONE FIREHAWK INDY 500 SL
DOWNLOAD WARRANTY BROCHURE PDF
2 In Stock $92.92
will be very curious to learn of how you like these tires. when doing some research a while back i was intrigued by these. i have bridgestone re-11 tires which i think the firestones are patterned after. i was going to sell my coupeking alloys with the bridgestones ... and was going to do a set of the bbs rs and was looking for tires. now that i'm going ceylon i haven't determined what wheels i will be using.
 

JFENG

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Did E9's come standard with or without rear anti-sway bars?
I don't know, but...
All the E9's I've seen and owned have had the thin rear "stabilizer" bar and these appear to be from BMW.
The BMW parts catalog and workshop manual all indicate a rear stabilizer bar.
In a BMW NA brochure from back in the day, the picture of the rear suspension clearly shows an anti-sway bar as part of the subassembly.
http://e9-driven.com/Public/Library/CS-Brochure/CS-Brochure.pdf

The attached images shows text from 2 portions of the brochure.

However, I find it entirely plausible that the rear was fitted to some and not to others, depending on year, country, and level of trim.

John

rear_suspension.jpg
 

Gary Knox

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Scott,

I assume Markos memory is a lot better than mine, if you indeed have identical wheels front and rear (I was going by either your or Gary's comment in the video), then identical tires make good sense, and I was wrong in my most recent post (sorry). I too have 7" wheels F and R, but I have 10mm wider tires in the rear. I'm not really concerned about rotation and tire longevity, as tires on my hobby cars hardly ever get worn out - replacement is due to age or rubber hardening (traction loss).

Best wishes, you are making the right moves.

Gary
 

teahead

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Square wheels, but staggered tires so you can't rotate which is fine I never do.


Scott, just keep what you have. You're overthinking all this.

As far as sway bars, drive on what you have now. Then install the ST setup If you like it, good If not remove them and resell them. Pretty simple
 

JFENG

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If I had square rims (7" all around) I'd go with the same tire size front and back.
Unfortunately both my BBS RS and Alpina's are staggered.
I will agree that staggered front/rear widths looks more sporty. So does a big spoiler on the back.
 
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