Taiga csi resto

[daicos35]

Mal, there are 3 E9s going through the heally factory at the moment. A tiaga csl, has just left with mechanicals now being refitted at Southern BM. There is a Fjord CSL that is about to go into the paint booth, and there is mine, which has had the structural bodywork completed and is next in line to go into the paint prep / paint process.. (3/4 months work).

It is an extraordinarily detailed and time consuming process, but as you mentioned, the results are spectacular.

Mine will be the 5th they have done over the last 7 years or so...

 

[stcos85]

You can get all the correct high pressure FI rubber hose and 'fuel line clamps' or 'solid band hose clamps' from Super Cheap Auto in Melb. Also I tend to go through once or twice a year to tighten every clamp I can see in my engine bay as a precaution to ensure I dont have a fire. It's amazing how these clamps do get slightly loose over time.

I wonder is your E9 being restored at Healey Factory as I saw one there couple of years ago? (although they said it was a CSL). They do great work.

No its not at Healey factory, I am reassembling it myself between all the other projects. Waiting on the screen trim to come back from the polishers and then tyhe screens will be going in. Not looking forward to refitting the sunroof

 

[stcos85]

Mal, there are 3 E9s going through the heally factory at the moment. A tiaga csl, has just left with mechanicals now being refitted at Southern BM. There is a Fjord CSL that is about to go into the paint booth, and there is mine, which has had the structural bodywork completed and is next in line to go into the paint prep / paint process.. (3/4 months work).

It is an extraordinarily detailed and time consuming process, but as you mentioned, the results are spectacular.

Mine will be the 5th they have done over the last 7 years or so...

I didnt know they had done so many.

 

[stcos85]

Front suspension rebuilt with all new bushes, brake disc covers had rotted out(being a UK car) so have been replaced, new brake lines fitted, front and rear brake calipers rebuilt and ready to fit once the new rotors arrive.
Any suggestions on the best way to straighten the brake lines

Engine and box will go in as soon as the new hoses arrive. Can you still get M90 engine hoses from BMW dealerships or is it better just getting the set from Walloth

 

[Ian C]

Some available hoses through dealers, having part numbers helps if you're talking to parts staff. Have a look at Penninsula BM website. I used a csi set from W&N which works if you're using the L-jet distributor, and steel pipe along the block. There is one hose from the aux air valve to throttle body you won't need in the full set, I used an e28 idle air valve in my Haltech system, and had to get creative with a hose to the throttle body and you will need the short one from the rocker cover to the throttle body. I had to get that from the U.S.

 

[daicos35]

Yep, there was a chamonix one prior to these 3, plus one other.

 

[stcos85]

after a bit of advice. how do I get the old fuel clamps off without causing any damage to the injectors

 

[Ian C]

Judicious use of a Stanley knife, slit the hose lengthways without going right through, then they will tear with a bit of persuasion

 

[stcos85]

Judicious use of a Stanley knife, slit the hose lengthways without going right through, then they will tear with a bit of persuasion

can I reuse those clips or am I better getting conventional ones.

haven't worked out how they actually hold the pipe on.

 

[Ian C]

You can reuse them if you want. I think they apply pressure around the hose base which keeps it tight on the barbs when fuel pressure is there. I used hose clamps to avoid the removal saga if there was any adjustment to be done mounting the rail and pressure regulator. I didn't have an induction system till I visited the wreckers a few times

 

[stcos85]

You can reuse them if you want. I think they apply pressure around the hose base which keeps it tight on the barbs when fuel pressure is there. I used hose clamps to avoid the removal saga if there was any adjustment to be done mounting the rail and pressure regulator. I didn't have an induction system till I visited the wreckers a few times

I reused the clamps if that's what they are called.

I need to replace the seals while they are off. wallothnesch have said I need both, is that correct.

Rubber ring for 628 CSI up to 04/1981 and for 633 CSI+635 CSI up to 09/1980, without cat, you need 6 for 1 car

Rubber ring for 628 CSI up to 04/1981 and for 633 CSI+635 CSI up to 09/1980, without cat, you need 6 for 1 car

www.wallothnesch.com

Rubberring for 628 CSI up to 04/1981 and for 633 CSI+635 CSI up to 09/1980, without cat, you need 6 for 1 car

Rubberring for 628 CSI up to 04/1981 and for 633 CSI+635 CSI up to 09/1980, without cat, you need 6 for 1 car

www.wallothnesch.com

 

[stcos85]

another question that hopefully someone can help with. I am running the rear brake line. I think it runs down the tunnel, is that correct and is this the correct union as this is what is in my old parts

 

[Ian C]

You need both rubbers, large is body of injector mount, small is to seal the injector into the manifold. They are available here, the small seal available from EFI solutions
or similar in Melbourne, I tried to use aftermarket body mount rubbers which were a fail, got genuine article through BMW Melbourne, ( in stock in Deutschland ) not ridiculously expensive when you consider no freight charge, but takes a couple of weeks. Don't recognise that brake union, the rear line comes off the booster, down the left side of tunnel, into the pressure limiter, hard line out either side of that, into flexible hose, then back to hard line into calipers. I see a flexible hose used to supply the pressure limiter in the blue book, mine is a 71 2800cs (with a disc brake rear end) , and the manual does not have rhd brake info so maybe different depending on year or lhd/rhd

 

[stcos85]

You need both rubbers, large is body of injector mount, small is to seal the injector into the manifold. They are available here, the small seal available from EFI solutions
or similar in Melbourne, I tried to use aftermarket body mount rubbers which were a fail, got genuine article through BMW Melbourne, ( in stock in Deutschland ) not ridiculously expensive when you consider no freight charge, but takes a couple of weeks. Don't recognise that brake union, the rear line comes off the booster, down the left side of tunnel, into the pressure limiter, hard line out either side of that, into flexible hose, then back to hard line into calipers. I see a flexible hose used to supply the pressure limiter in the blue book, mine is a 71 2800cs (with a disc brake rear end) , and the manual does not have rhd brake info so maybe different depending on year or lhd/rhd

thanks for the info. it may be thatsome one earlier in the cars life changed the pressure valve. I will have to look out for one or get an after market one.

I got the brake line in ok.

I do have an e3 si and that appears to have the same pressure valve. I will copy the brake line runs

 

[stcos85]

moving onto re installing the sunroof. I bought the seals from walloth but can't work out whether they fit to the actual sunroof panel. hoping someone can advise.
I have attached a photo of the pieces

 

[Ian C]

Long one adheres to the roof front edge and sides, short one to the rear of the sliding panel.

 

[Drew Gregg]

Make sure when you glue in the sunroof seals that they are below the metal of the sunroof and the surrounding roof lines. Then when you wipe or polish the paint,you will not wear out the tops of the seals.

 

[stcos85]

Long one adheres to the roof front edge and sides, short one to the rear of the sliding panel.View attachment 171729View attachment 171730

any idea on the black rubber seal, top left of my picture

 

[stcos85]

Make sure when you glue in the sunroof seals that they are below the metal of the sunroof and the surrounding roof lines. Then when you wipe or polish the paint,you will not wear out the tops of the seals.

will do, any idea what's the best glue to use

 

[Ian C]

3M or Permatex weatherstrip adhesive, black seal I think goes at the very back of the panel.