Smell of gas, oil and exaust

bmwkai

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Hi there.
I havent been here for a while.
But never the less I have been driving a lot in my cs.
It smells a lot sometimes of a mix of gas, oil and exaust. I have new fuellines, gasket and hoses in the fueltank and engine bay, exaust system, but still I get this smell and I feel like washing My hands and head everytime I stop driving. Am I just being a oversensitive old man, or are there others out there Who just cant get rid of the smell???
Regards
Kai
 

HB Chris

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You need the gas evap tank in trunk hooked up, it draws gas from filler neck/tank to the grey plastic tank, to the charcoal filter under the battery and then to the air cleaner. You also need a good trunk seal. Do you have the two hood seals around the fresh air plenum? That’s another source of fumes.
 

bmwkai

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Hi Chris
I think the grey plastic tank You refer to is only for the US market, I have never seen one in the euro models, here there is only a small tube from the filler, that runs out under the rear panel. I have complete new rubber gaskets for the car, everything on walloth-nesh list was ordered
But I have thougt about installing some kind of filter for the small tube
 

bmwkai

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The charcoal filter You talk about, I also dont think is on euro models... But it would be a good idea
 

bmwkai

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I think its from the boot, but to be honest, I am not sure. Sometimes when driving it smell of gas, and sometimes I think its more like exaust.... Maybe I am a bit dissy
I also changed the tube from the valvecover to the airbox because it was broken, and then I thougt I nailed it, but No
 

deQuincey

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Hi there.
I havent been here for a while.
But never the less I have been driving a lot in my cs.
It smells a lot sometimes of a mix of gas, oil and exaust. I have new fuellines, gasket and hoses in the fueltank and engine bay, exaust system, but still I get this smell and I feel like washing My hands and head everytime I stop driving. Am I just being a oversensitive old man, or are there others out there Who just cant get rid of the smell???
Regards
Kai


how is your fuel filler cap ?
do you experience smell always or more when the tank is full and you have been cornering a bit ?
 

Keshav

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You do have both the drain tubes in the car (Pic)? If not, heat and fumes are also being drawn right from the engine into the car’s interior.
Regarding the trunk, when you open the trunk lid, is there a distinct smell of gas? If so, recheck the gaskets you’ve installed, specially the one on the tank, which can move when inserting the tube in to it. And or the gasket/ sealing on the gearbox shifter from underneath. A misfit, even with new gaskets is quite possible.
 

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deQuincey

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“a good trunk seal.” can be ruined by the fact that the rear parcel shelf is not perfectly sealed + loudspeakers + holes for cables, ....

as to fuel smell you must cut it at the source
 

Keshav

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If it’s coming from the trunk, it’s most likely what DQ said, the fuel level tubes’ gasket. Natural ‘kinder krankheiten’ after a fresh reassembly. Even the fuel lines, some connections might have come loose.... need to relook at all the fresh work done. Irritating fun!
 

bavbob

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Has anyone used a "sniffer" to find a leak? In theory the thing is supposed to sense a drop in oxygen tension rather than a specific compound like R-12. I got one, gonna give it a try and report back.

Well it works quite well. My cheapo sniffer went nuts when I put it near my E3 gas cap.
 
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Bwana

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Is yours a D-Jet? I had the same problem and the solution was two-fold. There was a small place where the exhaust had rusted thru, had a new section welded in and that fixed the exhaust smell. The fuel smell was from the filler neck vent tube, it was inside the trunk (!) so I just routed it outside thru the appropriate hole to just behind the bumper. Problem solved.
 

Sean Haas

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I had this for a while on my Bavaria. I know some of this has been mentioned but I replaced all engine and trunk gaskets, replaced the gas cap and sending unit gaskets (strong gas smell when tank was refilled), made sure the drain tubes going into the engine bay were closing, moved the exhaust back to the proper location (had likely had a rear-end tap and been lazily repaired.) I also found a crack in the trunk pan in which the gas tank sits, likely from the rear end damage as well, where the weld had separated. Made sure evap and charcoal tubing was all hooked up and tight. Finally I repaired a bit of rust in the wheel wells. All of that (knock on wood) seems to have fixed it so probably a variety of issues were going on. Just did 5 hours of driving with no issues and did not smell of exhaust & fuel!
 

Honolulu

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bmwkai: The "gas smell in passenger compartment" theme is a common complaint, going back literally decades. There are LOTS of potential sources, some are USA-model specific. Confounding all of the effort to find the sources of a fuel odor is that in a moving car, 1) air from the trunk can be drawn into the passenger compartment and 2) air from the engine compartment can be drawn into the passenger compartment.

I've posted about this before but have not seen it mentioned in quite some time. The Search function will show the previous efforts. Following is only a partial list that evaluates items that were OE with the car. Previous owners (and you) may have changed things that cause, or deteriorate enough to cause, fuel odors to be noticed. Thus you have to look beyond simple age-related failures of OE equipment.

At the back half of the car (trunk, boot, whatever you prefer):
Gas cap (ohne luftung oder mit luftung?) rubber seal.
Seal of metal tube immediately downstream of the gas cap to the metal tube coming up from the tank, and integrity of the flexible tube connecting both metal bits.
Integrity of the tank, particularly along the seam
Seal of the large o-ring at the fuel sender
Seal of the two fuel lines that connect to the sender. Also, one of those 2 fuel lines is supposed to have a plastic sleeve over the metal sender spigot.
The fuel tank must be vented to allow air to replace fuel drawn out. USA cars have a metal tube fitting on the tank riser that is connected using flexible tubing to the above-mentioned vapor canister that sits above the right rear inner fender. The flex tubing on both sides of the vapor canister must be intact, and the vapor canister itself must not leak. Be aware that the line from the canister runs forward through the passenger compartment, another line to verify (seal the end in the engine compartment, put some light pressure on the end in the trunk, and see if the pressure drops over time).
Does your trunk gasket adequately seal the trunk? Put a piece of paper across the gasket and see if the gasket presses against the trunk lid, all the way around. Alternative park in a dark location, put a flashlight in the trunk, look for light leakage around the edges of the trunk lid. Or in daylight climb in the trunk and look for light leakage.

Within the middle half of the car (passenger compartment):
Verify the integrity of your fuel line (if it runs through the passenger compartment, I forget) from the gas tank to engine.
I *think* there are (or are supposed to be) seals between passenger compartment and trunk, above and forward of the rear wheel arches, i.e., on either side of the back seats and behind the trim panels. You may be able to see from the trunk, otherwise have to remove the back seat side panels.
Were cutouts made for speakers on the rear deck under the back window? Vapors in the trunk will enter the passenger compartment there.

At the front half of the car:
Throughout the engine compartment all fuel-containing bits must be completely intact, meaning that they don't even allow evaporation, which would not show a visible wetness.
The gutter where the heater inlet and wipers are located must not vent or allow engine compartment smells to enter.
Verify integrity of the engine compartment hood where it seals to the gutter - a gasket running across the car. Forget if there are also two more rubber seals at the end of this.
If the gutter drain tubes are missing or rotted, engine smells enter the gutter, then the passenger compartment.
No other missing seals between gutter and engine compartment.
Verify no rust or rot perforations between engine and passenger compartment.
Verify that all fuel-containing flex lines have not deteriorated, usually near their ends, and leak (fire hazard!) or even as much as weep without visible wetness.
US models, verify the vapor line from the gray canister is connected to the charcoal filter under the battery (most of these rotted out long ago, may no longer be there). In Euro models, the trunk must be vented, where does the vent go? (check both ends).
Carbs if so equipped must not leak. Anywhere.

Yes there are three "halves" to the car when trying to find the source of fuel smells, but I repeat myself ;)

If all the above isn't enough to keep you busy (and get intimately familiar with the car) note that there can be multiple sources, so finding something obvious may not make a difference at all.

I hope to think that if you fix the fuel odor, the oil odor will be gone also. There could be another list about oil and exhaust odors, but as a start verify your exhaust system is complete and not leaking. Exhaust leaks sometimes make a black stain on the exhaust pipe. You can hear, or feel leaks if you're close to the pipe (don't burn yourself...)

Hope this helps, post back if you find your fuel odor source. Then you can look for oil odor sources, then exhaust odor sources. We'll keep raising your post count...
 

JMinPDX

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bmwkai: The "gas smell in passenger compartment" theme is a common complaint, going back literally decades. There are LOTS of potential sources, some are USA-model specific. Confounding all of the effort to find the sources of a fuel odor is that in a moving car, 1) air from the trunk can be drawn into the passenger compartment and 2) air from the engine compartment can be drawn into the passenger compartment.

I've posted about this before but have not seen it mentioned in quite some time. The Search function will show the previous efforts. Following is only a partial list that evaluates items that were OE with the car. Previous owners (and you) may have changed things that cause, or deteriorate enough to cause, fuel odors to be noticed. Thus you have to look beyond simple age-related failures of OE equipment.

At the back half of the car (trunk, boot, whatever you prefer):
Gas cap (ohne luftung oder mit luftung?) rubber seal.
Seal of metal tube immediately downstream of the gas cap to the metal tube coming up from the tank, and integrity of the flexible tube connecting both metal bits.
Integrity of the tank, particularly along the seam
Seal of the large o-ring at the fuel sender
Seal of the two fuel lines that connect to the sender. Also, one of those 2 fuel lines is supposed to have a plastic sleeve over the metal sender spigot.
The fuel tank must be vented to allow air to replace fuel drawn out. USA cars have a metal tube fitting on the tank riser that is connected using flexible tubing to the above-mentioned vapor canister that sits above the right rear inner fender. The flex tubing on both sides of the vapor canister must be intact, and the vapor canister itself must not leak. Be aware that the line from the canister runs forward through the passenger compartment, another line to verify (seal the end in the engine compartment, put some light pressure on the end in the trunk, and see if the pressure drops over time).
Does your trunk gasket adequately seal the trunk? Put a piece of paper across the gasket and see if the gasket presses against the trunk lid, all the way around. Alternative park in a dark location, put a flashlight in the trunk, look for light leakage around the edges of the trunk lid. Or in daylight climb in the trunk and look for light leakage.

Within the middle half of the car (passenger compartment):
Verify the integrity of your fuel line (if it runs through the passenger compartment, I forget) from the gas tank to engine.
I *think* there are (or are supposed to be) seals between passenger compartment and trunk, above and forward of the rear wheel arches, i.e., on either side of the back seats and behind the trim panels. You may be able to see from the trunk, otherwise have to remove the back seat side panels.
Were cutouts made for speakers on the rear deck under the back window? Vapors in the trunk will enter the passenger compartment there.

At the front half of the car:
Throughout the engine compartment all fuel-containing bits must be completely intact, meaning that they don't even allow evaporation, which would not show a visible wetness.
The gutter where the heater inlet and wipers are located must not vent or allow engine compartment smells to enter.
Verify integrity of the engine compartment hood where it seals to the gutter - a gasket running across the car. Forget if there are also two more rubber seals at the end of this.
If the gutter drain tubes are missing or rotted, engine smells enter the gutter, then the passenger compartment.
No other missing seals between gutter and engine compartment.
Verify no rust or rot perforations between engine and passenger compartment.
Verify that all fuel-containing flex lines have not deteriorated, usually near their ends, and leak (fire hazard!) or even as much as weep without visible wetness.
US models, verify the vapor line from the gray canister is connected to the charcoal filter under the battery (most of these rotted out long ago, may no longer be there). In Euro models, the trunk must be vented, where does the vent go? (check both ends).
Carbs if so equipped must not leak. Anywhere.

Yes there are three "halves" to the car when trying to find the source of fuel smells, but I repeat myself ;)

If all the above isn't enough to keep you busy (and get intimately familiar with the car) note that there can be multiple sources, so finding something obvious may not make a difference at all.

I hope to think that if you fix the fuel odor, the oil odor will be gone also. There could be another list about oil and exhaust odors, but as a start verify your exhaust system is complete and not leaking. Exhaust leaks sometimes make a black stain on the exhaust pipe. You can hear, or feel leaks if you're close to the pipe (don't burn yourself...)

Hope this helps, post back if you find your fuel odor source. Then you can look for oil odor sources, then exhaust odor sources. We'll keep raising your post count...


Great stuff! And very timely. I just got my e3 back on the road today after swaping out the noisey getrag for a much quieter one. Took it for a long drive today and noticed gas smell.

I'll be checking all "3 halves" soon.
 
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lloyd

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It smells a lot sometimes of a mix of gas, oil and exhaust.

Depending upon the sensitivity of your nose, you may be chasing several different problems - or maybe one big one. Recognizing that you have made many improvements, with new hoses and exhaust, etc., when did you first notice the malodorous condition and is it more pronounced when driving or at a standstill? Asked another way, were the changes prompted by the odors or did the odors become evident after the changes? Another thing worth establishing is the mechanical condition and "tune" of your engine. If, for example, your engine is running poorly and extremely rich, it would not be surprising to notice the malodorous exhaust - no matter how well the cabin has been sealed.

All of the advice provided is good, but it is quite broad. Can you still detect the odors with the engine off, or must the engine be on and you need to be moving? You did not mention whether your engine is injected or carburetor-equipped. This can make a difference in detecting a fuel leak since the injection system employs significant pressure. Thus, in an injection situation, you might not observe a significant fuel leak unless the system was energized, i.e., under pressure, whereas a pinhole leak might only be noticed with the system powered or engine running. Of course, there are exceptions since an injected fuel system can maintain residual pressure and release it gradually, like a slow-leaking tire. Not unlike other suggestions, numerous sources can allow for fuel weeping, e.g., loose clamps, defective hoses, warped carburetor or fuel pump or tank fittings and integral gaskets.

You mention exhaust smell, but seem to commingle it with other possibilities. Returning to the first thought, is the smell more pronounced when the car is still or moving? Obviously, you would not notice exhaust smell with the engine off, but to the extent some smell sources are distinct from others, does the car exhibit any other smells (i.e., unconsumed fuel) with the engine off?

Since you also reference the smell of "oil," one needs to ask, do you have any significant oil leak/s? Oil dripping on a hot exhaust pipe can result in a particularly pungent smell. It also results in visible smoke. Do you notice smoke with the smell and if so, belaboring the obvious, from where? Under the car or from the tail pipe? The difference can be significant. Smoke from the former indicates fixing the leak. Smoke from the latter suggests a mechanical problem. With respect to the other suggestions, completely sealing an E9 cabin is a something aspirational and rarely, if ever completely achieved. I am not saying this is your problem, but if your vehicle is running poorly and/or burning oil, without addressing that problem, it might be easier to consider making your car a drop top or accessorizing the cabin. o_O



Does RealOEM have a part number for overhead bins?

iu





To borrow from MPython,
"She may look pretty, but how does she smell?"
7c42188fcc96f8b6e2b08186e0be0df4.jpg
 
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Ohmess

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Further to DeQ's comment on the rear parcel shelf, the previous owner of my car had cut huge (10") holes in the rear parcel shelf and the speakers were not sealed to the shelf leaving a gap for air to pass through (and probably reducing bass response from the speakers). I have since completely replaced the shelf.
 
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