As Dang suggests go back to what you changed first (points) and go from there. Otherwise you’ll go off track. Chokes look fine. Ed’s advice is solid.
Haven't checked them yet. Will pull some today
my 2800. Car runs great when cold but after it's warm it burps and stutters and stumbles while rowing thru the gears.
I have adjusted and readjusted the points
I adjusted, retarded and advanced the timing
stumbling was under light acceleration load not heavy pedal mashing but it's both and starts to breakup about 3500rpm
6 DeQ's or QTs?
Lloyd I sent you a private message.6 quarts
Ok I finally got a chance to work on my. At yesterday. And I made some progress. I broke out my timing light and tried to retune the distributor. I advanced the curve. It was WAY OFF?? I wonder if anyone can post photos of all the different timing marks on the flywheel. I know of the two which are pre and post dead center but there’s another one on mine I think and I have the light and the dizzy pointing to that round bump and the car actually runs MUCH better. This mark almost looks like one of those candy buttons that come in sheets for kids.Hi I am puzzled by a rough (when car is warmed up) issue on my 2800. Car runs great when cold but after it's warm it burps and stutters and stumbles while rowing thru the gears.
I have adjusted and readjusted the points
I adjusted, retarded and advanced the timing
and still the issue. I don't think its carb related I think it may be ignition related.
I have a replacement set of points on the car as the old set broke. the dizzy is not stock.
can points/rotor/cap act funny once car is warm and metal expands?
any help appreciated thanks.
nf
'70 2800CS
'72 Tii
After many opinions and a call to a weber supplier, I was told that those vents should be left as is, no sponge. The channeling is not direct, you could throw a handful of sand at them, it would not enter the carb (these are 40 DCOE weber side draft configuration)