Reconditioning the underdash panels

[x_atlas0]

Howdy, everyone!

Since the car appears to be functioning basically as intended currently, I'm taking the opportunity to clean up the interior. I already have new carpet waiting to be installed, along with other parts, but one piece I'm not sure how to handle are the driver underdash panels. Mine are peeling away from the metal backing plate.

I refurbished my console sides many years ago using black vinyl and performing my own stitchwork. These underdash panels, though, appear to use some sort of higher-density foam and glue, along with a formed cover material, like the console sides. Does anyone have any hints/tips/instructions on how best to rebuild these parts?

Thanks,
Matt

 

[bavbob]

Lots of opinions on this. I put my pieces in the oven at about 170F for a few minutes, then used some small pieces of wood on each side with a wood clamp. I did this is stages, heat, get a lttle closer, heat again, little closer...until they came together then jb weld. The wood disperses the clamp pressure so you get no dents. Heat on a flat surface, not the grates in your over to avoid dents (and being yelled at).

 

[boonies]

Lots of opinions on this. I put my pieces in the oven at about 170F for a few minutes, then used some small pieces of wood on each side with a wood clamp. I did this is stages, heat, get a lttle closer, heat again, little closer...until they came together then jb weld. The wood disperses the clamp pressure so you get no dents. Heat on a flat surface, not the grates in your over to avoid dents (and being yelled at).

As Bob says, heat is your friend. I was able to accomplish similar results with my glove box door by carefully using a heat gun and wood blocking and clamps to hold the surface after the plastic and foam substrate were sufficiently pliable. Once you clamp it in place until cool (I kept it clamped for several days) it will hold its new (original) shape. I then used Wurth contact adhesive and re-clamped to make the final repair.

 

[tferrer]

I did this for both my glove box and fuse door. I think there were pics somewhere in the forum but yes, wood 3/8 x 2" stips with c-clamps and sessions in the oven to get the foam heated throughout (important). You aren't trying to heat the surfaces but the deeper layers and I used wurth rubber glue but to tell you the truth, I think any of the top contact cements or glues would work. Take your time. Not something you can rush. Tackle one piece at a time.

 

[Dan Wood]

The glove box on ours had delaminated and I use the hydraulic press with apropriate wood shapes to clamp it in place while the glue was curing.

 

[x_atlas0]

Thanks for the tips, everyone. Does everyone just have another oven to use for this sort of thing, or did y'all put it in your regular kitchen oven?

What's the preferred inner felt replacement material?

 

[Dan Wood]

Thanks for the tips, everyone. Does everyone just have another oven to use for this sort of thing, or did y'all put it in your regular kitchen oven?

What's the preferred inner felt replacement material?

I assume you mean the flocking that makes it look fuzzy. Do a search on "flocking" and you will find several posts.

 

[boonies]

What's the preferred inner felt replacement material?

I haven't used their product, by I recall this site being recommended.

Flock It! Flocking Fibers Adhesives Applicators Supplies and Equipment

www.flockit.com

 

[HB Chris]

That stuff is fantastic

 

[Dan Wood]

Amazon also sell Flockit.

 

[Dick Steinkamp]

Amazon also sell Flockit.

Catchy name.

 

[Cornishman]

Thanks for the tips, everyone. Does everyone just have another oven to use for this sort of thing, or did y'all put it in your regular kitchen oven?

What's the preferred inner felt replacement material?

Many household tools have more than one use,
Saucepan - cooking and also catching spiders and leaving until someone else comes home to sort it out
Dishwasher - washing dishes and parts cleaner, not good for aluminium, anodised or fragile parts if you also use those strong dishwasher detergent tablets.
Oven - making dinner and curing painted items and from this post we learnt, gently heating glove box covers.

Here is my advice.
Use plenty of tin foil paper in your oven to catch what might melt off your car part, with something absorbent on top, then leave door open to vent afterwards. Have the saucepan or similar argument ready in case you get caught using the oven for car parts. Best screwdriver for stirring paint is a good alternative argument.

 

[adawil2002]

I used West System Epoxy & clamps to re-glue my under dash panel. Has been a few years now & hasn’t failed yet. Detailed the the repair in Andrew Wilson’s 1973 3.0 CSi.

 

[Dan Wood]

Catchy name.

I wish I could take credit for the name and chuckle every time I see it. It is actually two words "Flock It". They must have a sense of humor.

 

[bavbob]

How do you get the substrate cleaned off to reflock? The flocking doesn't look hard but the surface has to be pristine to get it even. I have had flocking stuff in my Amazon "save for later" list for 3 years!

To me, roasting a chicken is less clean than heating my dash parts. If you did them both together, what would be on what? Sorry for deviating from the O.P a bit.

 

[boonies]

To me, roasting a chicken is less clean than heating my dash parts. If you did them both together, what would be on what? Sorry for deviating from the O.P a bit.

I have been told, in no uncertain terms, that use of the oven or warming drawer for car parts will not end well...I too am sorry for deviating...

 

[Dick Steinkamp]

I wish I could take credit for the name and chuckle every time I see it. It is actually two words "Flock It". They must have a sense of humor.

They also sell Flock Off to remove unwanted flocking.

 

[Dan Wood]

How do you get the substrate cleaned off to reflock? The flocking doesn't look hard but the surface has to be pristine to get it even. I have had flocking stuff in my Amazon "save for later" list for 3 years!

To me, roasting a chicken is less clean than heating my dash parts. If you did them both together, what would be on what? Sorry for deviating from the O.P a bit.

I used about everything I could try. The round wire brush on a drill seemed to do ok. It takes time. Might also TRY to soften the glue with lacquer thinner (I am not sure if that helped). Scraping worked in some areas. It was difficult to get all the flocking on the first time and you can add more glue in the thin spots. Don't touch it when it is wet. I went with Black flock instead of the Charcoal Gray which I believe I read is the original color. The hand pump didn't work well so I bought the one that uses compressed air. I am willing to loan that for shipping and a deposit so it will cost around $20 instead of $60+.

 

[HB Chris]

When I did my glove box I scraped the old flock off with a putty knife, worked pretty well. I did use their cardboard tube to apply the new flock and that also worked. Doing it in a large cardboard box helps to capture unused flocking.

 

[RMP]

As Chris said, using a putty knife, like the small plastic ones to smooth mud on wall, plus for me rubbing alcohol in a spray bottle to soak the old flock. Old flock easily came off.