Rear brake issues!

Dave L

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i hate when problems come in batches! First problem I have to fix (70 2800cs) is that yesterday my right rear brake cylinder gave up its life! Luckily I have the new rear cylinders and new drums to go with new pads. Problem arises with the removal! The 11mm nut around the metal brake line will not budge and the 11mm box wrench has now stripped the nut. Looking for a replacement metal line, I can't find one listed (lots of the inner flexible lines). Does anyone know a good source for this? Is there an alternative flexible braided line available somewhere? Is anyone breaking a car with a good metal brake line rear passenger side 2800cs rear drum brake?
I'm in So Cal.

Dave L
 

mosearch

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lots of pb blaster...let it soak...then see if there's enough left of your 11mm hex to grab it with a curved jaw vise grip like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004SBBD/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can buy a genuine OEM replacement brake line using the part number listed on realoem...or order one of similar length from an online source.

https://www.belmetric.com/index.php...BEgLBAPD_BwE&zenid=92bprmj9pgevje60jnquq7bjt7

I went ahead and bought a roll of copper-nickle brake line, fittings, and a bubble-flare tool and made my own...but it's a lot of fiddly work...and I probably would use pre-made lines next time.
 

Honolulu

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H'm! Several things:

One, you knew the brake cylinder was about to die, so you got another, but didn't put it in? I'm thinking dark thoughts about that sequence.

Two, your could only have used a box wrench (if I read the OP correctly) if you first cut the brake line to get the box over it. An act of desperation after other attempts failed? An open-end wrench will strip those fittings, guaranteed.

Three, if you've cut the metal line, why not a six-point socket? Best grip of all. If rusted, sometimes you can tap a next-smaller-socket, SAE or metric, over the fitting and get it that way, but a pretty brutal approach. There are also "nut remover" sockets that you could tap on that might do the job.

The (six point) box wrench was the tool to use but you wouldn't have to cut the brake line if you'd get and use a set of metric flare nut wrenches, they are not costly especially compared to the fix you're now in. Google "metric flare nut wrench", widely available.

I got a Craftsman set long ago and they are the ONLY thing to use on brake lines. I had a '83 533i at the time with the "bomb" vacuum boost arrangement. Early 7 series (E32, had one) used the same; I think first-generation E21 and early 6ers used them too. Even some CS as they can address the problem of the intake manifold interference with the brake booster, with BMW parts. For good measure they also come in handy elsewhere.

At this point (and having been in your present situation before) I would bring out my small pipe wrench to grip the rounded fitting, or curved jaw vise grip pliers. Also lots of PB Blaster and heat, but those are sub-optimal, as is trying to flare some tubing... BTDT too.
 

Dave L

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Oh, I can snip the metal brake line and get it off. I just don't have a metal line to replace it with. I did a cursory search on the internet and didn't see any available replacement for this item. I figured I was searching incorrectly and if I posted here I might get sent in the proper direction. I just received the other parts to do the brake refurb project, but had a request to use my car in a tv production yesterday. Since there were no signs of any impending brake system failure, it seemed a no-brainer to go take their money. Alas, as "murphy's law" would have it, I had a cylinder failure on the way home. Is there any such thing as a new flexible line that replaces the old metal ones?
 

bavbob

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Figure length and buy a european/metric line from a local autoparts store, buy a bending tool for a few bucks also. Use the old line as a template. I never did this before and found it easy. Buy 2 lines in case you kink one. They are only a few bucks.
 

Dave L

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I completed the repair. Purchased the replacement metal line, shaped it, then installed new cylinders and drums. Good to go. On to the next issue.
 
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