Pulled the drivetrain clear to diff, next..

goodolarchie

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Howdy folks, been a while since I've posted anything. I have both time and shop space now, so I hope to make semi regular project updates on my CS restore.

Here's a few photos (click for album) and notes from the pull over the weekend: http://imgur.com/a/Bc9bC

-Guibo was torn. Looks like it has been this way for some time, as the bolt has endured a private hell.

-Driveshaft, Ujoints in good shape. Too bad I can't use it with a 5spd.

-Motor came out with trans just fine, even with the selector fork still hanging off it. This was with everything but the master cylinder removed in the engine bay, which will be stripped and painted anyway.

I have 3 candidate engines/trans combos to use now:

  • Stock 3.0L from the E9. I haven't pulled the head yet but it was getting about 60% compression on Cyl #4.
  • M90/Getrag 265 CR from '81 635csi (euro) - I believe it has a blown gasket. Still starts, runs with a bit of throttle, but I dare not let it get warm enough to test. Will be pulling this out next and most likely candidate. Only 78k miles!
  • M30b34 from '86 535i+ 265 OD. Runs strong after 240k miles.

What's next:

-Pull the other engine/trans from the remaining cars and get them off my lot. Going to part them to fund the new body metal.

-Continue disassembly of e9. A bit of the interior is still around, including the dash. I had to wait until I had more space for storing all this stuff, so now.

-I need to strip all the awful old undercarriage coating, then seal and paint my floor pans. Any suggestions on the best way to remove the stuff without going out and buying a $600 vacuum sand blaster? Wire cup brush on the grinder seems to work well but it also spins it into a fine white hairy-strand junk that gets all over the shop.

-Finish rust repair on the bulkheads, fender substructure and put the new fenders on. This part is a time and $ vampire.

Long term questions:
Motronic or L-Jet?
265 CR, 265 OD, with which ratio diff?
Which head/block?
 

JFENG

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removing undercoating

Didn't HBChris use a service that employs a pressurized steam cleaner to remove that stuff? I know heat softens it, and I could believe a high pressure at high temp stream would blast it off. Search for HBChris' post about getting the under side of his car detailed.
 

sfdon

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I have a Trojan brand low pressure hot water unit to clean cars ( $3500 ) and while it does clean dirt and grease and loose undercoating - it leaves most of the undercoating on. I think you would need very high pressure to remove all or most of it.
 

FastCougar

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LOL, funny I ran across this thread because I ordered the Northern Tool needle hammer after watching this same video about a year ago ... still have yet to use it ;)
 

afeustel

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Having recently stripped the undercoating from the bottom of the Bavaria, my recommendation is a propane torch to apply heat (until it bubbles just and bit) and then use a paint scraper/putty knife. The stuff comes off like warm butter when heated and scraped. For that new metal look, you need to then follow up with sand blasting to get all the remaining bits off. Alternative may be rotating wire brush on drill after scraping off the warm undercoating. I also tried the scaler and while effective on some parts of the chassis, it is loud, messy, and can actually dimple the metal if you hold in one position long enough to remove the tough stuff.

Bottom line is, this is not a quick task nor for the faint of heart. Just takes good old fashioned elbow grease...and a lot of it.

Fresh body schutz and paint...was worth the effort.
 

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