Time to fix the broken oil pan on the 2800. Is it easier to lift the engine or drop the cross member when removing the pan? I have access to lifts and jacks, etc., I was just hoping to have somewhat of a plan going into it...
Oil pan removal?
- Thread starter dang
- Start date
it has been a long time since i did this on my old e3. but i did it without removing the cross member ... i loosened the engine mounts and lifted the engine with a block of wood on the passenger side motor mount. it took a little fiddling to get it out, but i got it out. i also changed my motor mounts at the same time as i replaced the oil pump.
You don’t lift the engine and you don’t drop the subframe.
Loosen the pan, unbolt the pump and and it comes right out.
TDC on 6.
Install- pan back under block, slip pump in and bolt it up.
Loosen the pan, unbolt the pump and and it comes right out.
TDC on 6.
Install- pan back under block, slip pump in and bolt it up.
... and this is why we post questions to the group! Thanks Don. I'll use the block method as a back-up plan.
i bet if i had #6 at TDC it would have come out just fine. that is why i had to raise the engine was to get the pan off of the back of the engine. i have only done this once ... Don, probably has done it a few hundred times.
Removing oil pump can’t be fun.
heck, I'd use this as an excuse to take the motor out and freshen up the bay and all the rubber
Is the oil pump and pickup int he way?
Pump comes out easy
Yeah, when the pan is out of the way!
Trust me its easy... But if you just gotta buy a tool to be cool we have this in the shop.
https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html
I'm with duct-tape...I like to pull the engine just to detail things...and probably just go ahead and strip the engine down, degrease it, run a hone through it, new rings, bearings, freshen up the head, all new gaskets, repaint everything....oh hell...I have issues...lol
