I just attempted to change the Oil Filter in my 74. Is this a design flaw or is there a secret to changing it. It looked like a tight squeeze but I thought it would drop down between everything below it. Well no such luck. I ended up lifting the old filter out of the canister from the top and dropping the new one in from the top and then screwing in the canister. Is this the correct way to do this or do you need to remove all of that below to get the canister out. I also now seem to have a leak now. Tightening as much as I felt comfortable doing. In side the canister was a spring that I could not figure how it was to go back in. I thought maybe the original filter was smaller and needed the spring to hold it in place. I ended up leaving it out. It did not seem to do anything. The hole in the filter was bigger than the spring and the spring would have just moved up and down not doing anything. I checked the filter that came out and it was the same as the new one. Any suggestions or comments are greatly appreciated.
Oil Filter Change
- Thread starter kys911t
- Start date
Filter housing comes out from above, it's a tight, messy operation to clear wires etc. I disconnect the alternator wires and use a couple plastic grocery bags. Leak is probably a misfitting cannister seal - also did you replace the housing crush washer? This thread ought to help:
http://www.e9coupe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9104&highlight=oil+filter
http://www.e9coupe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9104&highlight=oil+filter
Also there is a plate that goes on the spring which fits against the filter to hold it against the block, if you don't have this, get it asap! They are available and my PO's mechanic had left it off thereby making the filter useless. #13 in diagram plus #14 which is a rubber seal that fits into the plate. #3 is the crush washer, #11 is the rubber housing o-ring - both needed to cure leaks:
MMercury
Well-Known Member
- Messages
- 481
- Reaction score
- 5
If you plan to continue using the original style filter assembly, examine the picture below for the orientation of the spring. It keeps the filter media snug against the top portion of the filter housing. Without the spring, the practical effect of your filter assembly is nil.
It is also a good idea to change the washer that fits on the bolt responsible for securing the filter cannister to the housing. It must be in decent condition - especially on the original bottom bolt style housing. Otherwise, you may have a leak even when the engine is not running. Add oil pressure, things can be much worse. The rubber o-ring that fits the top of the cannister housing is likewise essential. If it is compromised (kinked or pinched) when the engine is operating and producing oil pressure - it can become what seems like a major news event about a threat to the environment.
Per Steve's link, changing the oil filter has never been a user friendly experience. The next generation "top bolt" is improved, but is not without its drawbacks. It is generally preferred to change the oil while everything is "hot" and most of the contaminants are in solution. With the E9 and E3, this makes oil changes all the more challenging.
Thanks, Will the canister come out through the top too? Just the filter was tight enough. It also looks like I'm missing part 14 and 13. I went back and looked at the old filter thought it might be stuck on it. I guess I have to go get them. I found the new seal 11. It was left in the box. Well I guess I have my next job for next weekend.
yes, when it is wrapped in the bags you have to basically get it horizontal to clear wires, hoses, engine parts etc. then nose up and out. The filter and cannister will come out together (no need to separate) and after you've done it once it becomes easier. See the link I posted below for refitting techniques. Once you've done this a couple times it is not as difficult as the first time - and warm oil won't be as much of a concern. Order the parts from Penske tomorrow and you'll have them for next weekend :-D
Top bolt is the way to go I think. That stock bottom bolt design makes would should be a 20 minute job a ridiculous PITA.
i have done the oil and filter change just a week ago
my system is the old one (bolt in the bottom of the cannister)
no doubt that the right method is to unscrew the four bolts of the oil filter support bracket, forget about other possibilities
you just undo the four bolts, and then you will see that you will need a rubber hammer to bump it a little to remove it( the gasket acts like and adhesive)
then you will only need to pull it up throug the hole between the battery and air filter, and thats all
it will leak only a litte oil but very minimal (the oil that is in the top of the support reservoir)
the great advantage is that you will have all in your hands to check, clean, andreplace the washer, gaskets,...
you will also assemble everything in the correct orderand torque the bolt in a painless way while you assure that the rubber gasket is inits place
then when you finish this you go to the car and with four bolts, you are done !
ps. take special care to check if the plate number 13, is there, is absolutely a must, otherwise you will be not filtering any oil at all
regards
my system is the old one (bolt in the bottom of the cannister)
no doubt that the right method is to unscrew the four bolts of the oil filter support bracket, forget about other possibilities
you just undo the four bolts, and then you will see that you will need a rubber hammer to bump it a little to remove it( the gasket acts like and adhesive)
then you will only need to pull it up throug the hole between the battery and air filter, and thats all
it will leak only a litte oil but very minimal (the oil that is in the top of the support reservoir)
the great advantage is that you will have all in your hands to check, clean, andreplace the washer, gaskets,...
you will also assemble everything in the correct orderand torque the bolt in a painless way while you assure that the rubber gasket is inits place
then when you finish this you go to the car and with four bolts, you are done !
ps. take special care to check if the plate number 13, is there, is absolutely a must, otherwise you will be not filtering any oil at all
regards
Remove the battery, makes the entire process a lot easier.
m_thompson
Well-Known Member
I use the same procedure as deQuincey. I unbolt the whole assembly from the block. It drips nearly nothing on the way out and us easy to assemble on the bench. I also fill the canister before I assemble it to reduce the time without oil pressure.
unfortunately i dont have that answer, and i dont think that it will be available in any book
being an M6 in a cast iron block, i assume it will be something like 15Nm or more, but forget about it, the right way is the trial/error, let me explain:
you start postioning the bolts by hand, then when you can not tight more with your fingers start a procedure in diagonal, lets say first top right, then bottom left, then top left and bottom right to finish, this procedure should be done in small increments until you feel confortable with it
then you start the car, and when warm enough you should check for leaks, if so retorque a little more, it is not common to need such a thing, in my experience it works ok atthe first attempt
by the way, better if you use a new gasket (the one between oil filter support and engine)
regards
dont be scared to ask any question
being an M6 in a cast iron block, i assume it will be something like 15Nm or more, but forget about it, the right way is the trial/error, let me explain:
you start postioning the bolts by hand, then when you can not tight more with your fingers start a procedure in diagonal, lets say first top right, then bottom left, then top left and bottom right to finish, this procedure should be done in small increments until you feel confortable with it
then you start the car, and when warm enough you should check for leaks, if so retorque a little more, it is not common to need such a thing, in my experience it works ok atthe first attempt
by the way, better if you use a new gasket (the one between oil filter support and engine)
regards
dont be scared to ask any question
Filter
My engine is out while the car shell is at the body shop. I think I'll switch to a spin on filter using the Ireland Engineering kit while I have easy access to everything. After that routine oil changes would still require squeezing the filter up past the alternator, but it is a smaller package and I won't miss the bolt, spring, and filter base.
My engine is out while the car shell is at the body shop. I think I'll switch to a spin on filter using the Ireland Engineering kit while I have easy access to everything. After that routine oil changes would still require squeezing the filter up past the alternator, but it is a smaller package and I won't miss the bolt, spring, and filter base.
great, then consider that the old gasket will be probably completely integrated in the engine block iron ! :-D
i mean that it will be impossible to remove it ! so many years being there in a hot environment !
you will need to remove it mechanically (a thin blade will do), first try to wet it with oil
regards
Tierfreund
Well-Known Member
I´ve converted to the top bolt filter.
The filter is easier to get, cheaper, impossible to install wrongly (no springs and washers) and the canister is slimmer. That way, with a little practice, I unbolt from top, move one PS-hose to the side and can extract the filter and canister upwards (sparing me having to take the underride protection of the engine bay out) without spilling (only some wiggling incolved).
Even easier than taking out the whole assembly as per dequincey´s method.
Filter change in less than 2 minutes.
Highly recommend keeping an eye out on ebay. These filter assemblys do come up every once in a while for 20-40 bucks used and are worth every penny.
http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E...rowse/engine/lubrication_system_oil_filter-3/
The filter is easier to get, cheaper, impossible to install wrongly (no springs and washers) and the canister is slimmer. That way, with a little practice, I unbolt from top, move one PS-hose to the side and can extract the filter and canister upwards (sparing me having to take the underride protection of the engine bay out) without spilling (only some wiggling incolved).
Even easier than taking out the whole assembly as per dequincey´s method.
Filter change in less than 2 minutes.
Highly recommend keeping an eye out on ebay. These filter assemblys do come up every once in a while for 20-40 bucks used and are worth every penny.
http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E...rowse/engine/lubrication_system_oil_filter-3/
