Issues after “Julia” has been running for an hour or more with high ambient temperature

Midwestbike

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So we drove my CSiL to Hot Springs year and today. When we started we drove for around two hours and when we stopped to get gas it was starting to get warm out (80+ Degrees). About 15 minutes after getting gas we had to emergently pull off the road because it would immediately stall after starting. Engine is not running hot, just in the bottom third to middle of the temp range. But after sitting for five minutes started right up and we were able to drive another 40 minutes when it was starting act up again. So off we pull over, again, to try and cool the engine compartment down. This is where my wife named her “Julia”. We hung out for twenty minutes then drove to the next stop a museum where we hung out for three hours. Started right up and drove for an hour and had to pull over for 15 minutes and then we drove the rest of the way yesterday. Then got up and left early this am and drove for 90 minutes with out an issue, then mountain biked for four hours and then drove for an hour in the heat, almost 90 degrees. Was running okay but Becky (wife) wanted to stop before it stopped. So we did and then hung out for 30 minutes and it ran fine up until shortly before we made it to hot springs NC. So, my question is there anything I’m missing that after it is really hot that it wants to act as if no fuel. The fuel pump runs, I have spark at least to turn over, but something is wrong. I was thing my coil could be acting up.

It has the Petronix installed, new plugs, fairly new plug wires, I have some tools here and know we can make it back home but am wanting to get this sorted out. Any ideas. I’ll be in the white coupe at the vintage with the tandem on the roof.
 

Midwestbike

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Fuel filter is less than 1000 miles, but more than 10 years old. I just am struggling with what it could be. I know the fuel filter could be an issue. One more thing to the list.
 

dave v. in nc

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I'll be up Friday night at the Clarion, at the event Sat...I'll bring a new fuel filter if you want it...find me. I'll PM my phone number...
 

Midwestbike

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Here’s one from last night.
443530B3-977E-4578-8500-7970A4FB1688.jpeg
 

teahead

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what's it like w/half a tank and being warm outside?

I wonder when you filled the tank all the way up, then drove it, the gas expanded to the point it was not getting any venting of any kind.
 

tochi

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So we drove my CSiL to Hot Springs year and today. When we started we drove for around two hours and when we stopped to get gas it was starting to get warm out (80+ Degrees). About 15 minutes after getting gas we had to emergently pull off the road because it would immediately stall after starting. Engine is not running hot, just in the bottom third to middle of the temp range. But after sitting for five minutes started right up and we were able to drive another 40 minutes when it was starting act up again. So off we pull over, again, to try and cool the engine compartment down. This is where my wife named her “Julia”. We hung out for twenty minutes then drove to the next stop a museum where we hung out for three hours. Started right up and drove for an hour and had to pull over for 15 minutes and then we drove the rest of the way yesterday. Then got up and left early this am and drove for 90 minutes with out an issue, then mountain biked for four hours and then drove for an hour in the heat, almost 90 degrees. Was running okay but Becky (wife) wanted to stop before it stopped. So we did and then hung out for 30 minutes and it ran fine up until shortly before we made it to hot springs NC. So, my question is there anything I’m missing that after it is really hot that it wants to act as if no fuel. The fuel pump runs, I have spark at least to turn over, but something is wrong. I was thing my coil could be acting up.

It has the Petronix installed, new plugs, fairly new plug wires, I have some tools here and know we can make it back home but am wanting to get this sorted out. Any ideas. I’ll be in the white coupe at the vintage with the tandem on the roof.
The failing coil scenario may be the most likely explanation. Merely swapping it out for virtually any generic similarly shaped 12v coil should resolve the doubts. But for the mention of peRtronix, points and condenser would have made the list of suspects. That said, peRtronix, may not be infallible when it comes to heat exposure. Further on the subject of electrics, compromised wiring (e.g., dubious insulation) could easily account for an otherwise unexplained engine shut down or non-start. In the abstract, heat may cause ignition wiring at or near the coil to contact a ground (e.g., bare sheet metal) since the same heat may cause just enough metal expansion to cause a short. (This scenario can occur if there is significant engine movement and wiring is brittle or otherwise compromised.) Lastly, assuming your fuel is delivered electronically via a Djet system, the peRtronix does not obviate the need to check the fuel injector points at the bottom of the distributor (and related wiring), fuel pump/relay wiring and wiring to pressure sending unit.

If your model is “injected,” as seemingly indicated, it is doubtful the vehicle is experiencing vapor lock, especially since most of the fuel system is pressurized. However, aft of the fuel pump (between tank and pump/tank reservoir) it is possible a poor hose connection or compromised hose might permit air to enter the system, in turn, causing momentary cavitation at the pump. One means of eliminating this remote possibility is a simple pressure gauge spliced between the fuel filter (usually under the battery tray) and the feed hose to the injector manifold. If the pressure remains steady, air in the system might only cause a hiccup and not a complete shut down.

Old braided high pressure fuel hose does not last forever. It can possibly sweat, allowing pressurized fuel to escape without significant warning other than the occasional fuel smell, and occasional rough running - or worse.

The filter age is probably a non issue too, especially if the gauge indicates normal fuel pressure is being maintained. If in doubt, remove it and try blowing through the filter. If that indicates serious resistance, you have an answer. As a simple field repair, you can still flush it in reverse to unclog it.

Related consideration may be failing fuel pump. https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/1974-csi-stalling-issues.38253/



This thread might be of interest. https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/1974-csi-stalling-issues.38253/


Something similar >>

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fuel prssr.jpg
 
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sfdon

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What if the variable is not temperature but time?

it’s a free test to loosen the gas cap. If you air being sucked into your tank you would have your answer in seconds…
 

sfdon

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A symptom of a cracked solder joint in your ecu is a “no run“ condition every time it warms up.
 

andyleonard

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I vote electrics but - just in case - we had a customer's E12 with 5K miles on it that would only run 45 mins at a time. After all the dancing, it turned out to be material flaking off the inside of the new tank and clogging the pickup screen, killing the engine. After 5 mins of no suction all the junk fell off, cleared the pickup, and he got another 45 mins.0f running. Not temp or speed related.
 

tochi

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What if the variable is not temperature but time?

it’s a free test to loosen the gas cap. If you air being sucked into your tank you would have your answer in seconds…
Good point re venting issue, assuming - what appears to have been a gray market import - was properly “federalized” with a non-vented cap. The vent tube could also be plugged or crimped. Limited experience with such examples have all had "vented" gas caps that leaked fuel (full tank) and air.

Without checking . . . it is probably unwise to have a lit flame or spark source too close to that rear bumper vent. ;)


On our 70s classics the fuel tank has a breather line which vents directly to the atmosphere, just underneath the rear bumper. This is to ensure that the tank can vent (and so not over pressure) on a hot day, and to stop the pump pulling a vacuum when the engine is running, and drawing fuel from the tank. https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/carbon-canister-fuel-smells.34256/#post-284900

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Mpower5266

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@Dan Wood this sounds similar...

We had some stumbling/hesitation after the car would heat soak a little, but it would clear up after a few minutes. We suspected it was the coil so I grabbed a used one from one of the vendors at the Clarion Friday night and swapped it. The car ran great the rest of the trip and the 4 hour drive home. I dropped my dad off and drove the coupe home to clean it up, before I got out of the neighborhood it stumbled again.

Edit: Ours is a 2800cs so not injected....
 
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tochi

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@Dan Wood this sounds similar...

We had some stumbling/hesitation after the car would heat soak a little, but it would clear up after a few minutes. We suspected it was the coil so I grabbed a used one from one of the vendors at the Clarion Friday night and swapped it. The car ran great the rest of the trip and the 4 hour drive home. I dropped my dad off and drove the coupe home to clean it up, before I got out of the neighborhood it stumbled again.

Edit: Ours is a 2800cs so not injected....
Injected or not, a decent coil can get cooked without an appropriately matched ballast resistor. Some reckon you can't judge a coil by its color? ;) https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/t...tor-blue-coil-black-coil-questions-questions/

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