Ignition switch replacement

Dave L

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I have replaced the ignition switch in the steering column that attaches to the back end of the steering lock cylinder. My problem is that I can’t get the switch to go all the way in. I line up the grub screw hole and the rectangular slot the cylinder should close into, but I can’t seem to get them to mate together fully. It needs to go in another quarter inch to seat fully. Who has done this before? Is there a trick? I don’t wast to push too hard and break the switch.
 

Dave L

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Yes, grub screw out. I have turned the key around, but the switch does not slide into place easily. Does it need some more pressure (push). I just don’t want to break the new switch.
 

02coastie

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Compare your new switch with your old one. If I understand correctly, the newer switches have an additional male "nub" that seats into the housing. These are used on E24's and E21's. The CS lock assembly doesn't accommodate it. A set of wire cutters and a file should remove it easily.
 

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teahead

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Weird. I didn't have to do that on the 73 csi I just sold.

Yes, compare old with new. Again, I didn't have any issues
 

deQuincey

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Compare your new switch with your old one. If I understand correctly, the newer switches have an additional male "nub" that seats into the housing. These are used on E24's and E21's. The CS lock assembly doesn't accommodate it. A set of wire cutters and a file should remove it easily.

this is half true, but your assumption and explanation is ridiculous
there is always a peg
there are two types, pre and post 73
the peg is in different position regarding the main protuberance for the grub screw, one is at 90 deg, and the other is at 120 deg
true is you should check which one you got as a replacement
i wouldn’t recomend to file out the peg

i did a complete thread on the topic, goo and find it, all is explained there,...

here; https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/how-to-deal-with-the-clausor-and-ignition-switch.23593/
 
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