Hi All,
My speedo stopped working during a highway-speed jaunt a few weeks ago (stuck @ 80 KMH). Thanks to mthomson's write-up on dash removal, I summoned up the courage to take this on. Michael confirmed that he actually got his speedo out without pulling the whole dash, so I gave it a go.
I will include as many pictures as possible for those folks who pull a panel or gauge and miss a detail and need verification on connection pin-outs.
Pulling the panels left and right of the steering column. (right panel circuit breakers
The knurled round nuts holding the gauges in place conveniently have a 7mm end facing out, so with much contorting to lay face-up, it is possible to get them started with a socket and take pressure off of the most accessible knobs on the lower side. It's only necessary to loosen the lower knurled nut. You can then rotate the gauge CCW to free it up from the wood panel.
Getting the fuel gauge out is easiest. There's plenty of room for that gauge to drop down and hang out of the way if it's the speedo you're looking to remove. If you disconnect the fuel/temp gauge, their are a number of connections. I disconnected one gauge at a time, and wrapped a rubber band around the connections to be able to distinguish them later.
Connections for the Fuel/Temp gauge:
This image from mthompson was critical; if not for this, I would not have known to lift the hood and pull the wooden cluster face outward slightly:
I went after the speedo, and my speedo cable mounting nut was on pretty solid, but miraculously, I could sneak a medium channelock on there and break it loose. After loosening the lower knurled nut I could dismount the speedo. The failure mode was obvious before I even removed it; the shaft/weight in the speedo had become dislocated and caused the needle to hang up. There should only be 0.5mm of play there, max.
Having the speedo in hand, the shaft play was obvious:
The gauges on an E9 are different from those on a 2002, as they have rings formed around the body of the gauge, so they have to be coaxed off by deforming the ring. I used a hooked pick the start the process, but I mainly relied on my trusty bamboo chopstick.
This takes patience, working 'round and 'round to slowly deform the ring enough to slip it off to access the speedo:
I used a plastic cap to protect the needle when I removed the speedo from the body:
Sorry, but I forgot to take a photo of the the aluminum cup delicately attached to the needle with a light spring in between. The iron weight spins within the aluminum cup and creates magnetic eddy currents that cause the needle to deflect as the weight rotates. The faster the weight rotates, the more the cup/needle deflects against the spring.
This image is from PaulTWinterton on the BMW 2002 FAQ: https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/t...can-it-be-fixed/?tab=comments#comment-1340176
I followed this video from FunkyLaneO on the FAQ that shows how to repair the speedo:
My speedo stopped working during a highway-speed jaunt a few weeks ago (stuck @ 80 KMH). Thanks to mthomson's write-up on dash removal, I summoned up the courage to take this on. Michael confirmed that he actually got his speedo out without pulling the whole dash, so I gave it a go.
I will include as many pictures as possible for those folks who pull a panel or gauge and miss a detail and need verification on connection pin-outs.
Pulling the panels left and right of the steering column. (right panel circuit breakers
The knurled round nuts holding the gauges in place conveniently have a 7mm end facing out, so with much contorting to lay face-up, it is possible to get them started with a socket and take pressure off of the most accessible knobs on the lower side. It's only necessary to loosen the lower knurled nut. You can then rotate the gauge CCW to free it up from the wood panel.
Getting the fuel gauge out is easiest. There's plenty of room for that gauge to drop down and hang out of the way if it's the speedo you're looking to remove. If you disconnect the fuel/temp gauge, their are a number of connections. I disconnected one gauge at a time, and wrapped a rubber band around the connections to be able to distinguish them later.
Connections for the Fuel/Temp gauge:
This image from mthompson was critical; if not for this, I would not have known to lift the hood and pull the wooden cluster face outward slightly:
I went after the speedo, and my speedo cable mounting nut was on pretty solid, but miraculously, I could sneak a medium channelock on there and break it loose. After loosening the lower knurled nut I could dismount the speedo. The failure mode was obvious before I even removed it; the shaft/weight in the speedo had become dislocated and caused the needle to hang up. There should only be 0.5mm of play there, max.
Having the speedo in hand, the shaft play was obvious:
The gauges on an E9 are different from those on a 2002, as they have rings formed around the body of the gauge, so they have to be coaxed off by deforming the ring. I used a hooked pick the start the process, but I mainly relied on my trusty bamboo chopstick.
This takes patience, working 'round and 'round to slowly deform the ring enough to slip it off to access the speedo:
I used a plastic cap to protect the needle when I removed the speedo from the body:
Sorry, but I forgot to take a photo of the the aluminum cup delicately attached to the needle with a light spring in between. The iron weight spins within the aluminum cup and creates magnetic eddy currents that cause the needle to deflect as the weight rotates. The faster the weight rotates, the more the cup/needle deflects against the spring.
This image is from PaulTWinterton on the BMW 2002 FAQ: https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/t...can-it-be-fixed/?tab=comments#comment-1340176
I followed this video from FunkyLaneO on the FAQ that shows how to repair the speedo: