Front window drive renewal

Bwana

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Don't think this has been fully documented. deQuincey set the bar pretty high with his rear window overhaul so I'll try to match it. Unfortunately my photoshop skills are lacking so you'll just have to study the pictures.

The instructions in the blue service manuals are next to useless unless you've already done the job a coule of times. ;) Then they make sense.

Step one: remove the door panel. This is no more than popping out the plastic pins from the door frame. If this is the first time around, you'll probably have some pull out of the cardboard panel instead of pulling out from the door. Watch out for any small screws used to hold the panel in. I had one located in the rear upper part of the panel on the drivers side, nothing on the passenger side. You don't have to take off the wood trim or wing window knob, the panel fits in underneath it. I also removed the ashtray for good measure.


PA150044.jpg



You can see the gap under the wood trim here



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Before I started, I measured the voltage at the drive motor while it was in action. Turns out to be about 7 VDC. No wonder these motors go so slow!

PA150052.jpg


Next, I'll make a long story short. I partly disassembled pretty much the whole window assembly in one way or another. There are two sets of bolts in the window, one that holds the lift mechinism to the window, the other that hold the guide shoes to the window. Don't mess with either. The short answer is to remove the four bolts that hold the motor drive to the door. You can see them here at the upper and lower corners.

PA150051.jpg




The ty-wrap holds the wiring harness up against the door so it soesn't get into the drive. Once the assembly is loose, you wiggle the lift arm around until the flange at the end can come thru the enlarged slot at the end of the lift plate. Easy peasy removal although you might get a helper to hold up the window until the drive assembly is removed.

PA160066.jpg


Next, drop the lift arm via the switch to get it parallel with the door so you can take the whole assembly out of the door. I started with the window in the "up" position so I could reach everything but then the lift arm is in the wrong position. Here you can also see where the four bolts were.

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Here's the assembly on the bench. I've unbolted the motor and pulled it away from the gears.

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The back side

PA160069.jpg


So, here's the questions:

Are there any "user serviceable" parts in the motor? If I take it apart can I do anything like clean bearings and replace brushes, much like with the windshield wiper motor? Or should I buy a new one? Any tests to see if it's good? I've got a good auto electric shop nearby, can they rebuild it?

I can't get the worm drive assembly apart because one of the mounting bolts is hidden behind the big gear. I can take that all apart by removing the big spring but the arms are all riveted so I'm not sure I'd be making any headway. Maybe just wash the whole thing clean in the parts washer?

PA160071.jpg


Suggestions on the next steps?

I'm definitely going to install the relay mod to try and get the power up to the full 12 volts at the window motor.

http://www.e9coupe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3907
 

Stevehose

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If you turn the gearbox shaft manually so the regulator arm is about halfway up, the third gearbox screw is accesible through a hole in the regulator gear. Then you can remove the gearbox and clean out the old grease and inspect the plastic gear and regrease. If it is worn out the only option is to track down a decent used box. Also inspect the housing around the little metal gear, this can get bent out of shape from sticky regulators.

Have you hooked the motor to the battery?

Here's more on the relay upgrade:

http://www.e9coupe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10435&highlight=relay+upgrade
 

Bwana

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Excellent! Hadn't occured to me to rotate the gear. Doh!

In your relay write up (and others), you put the relays in the door. I've not delved into it yet but I was planning on ganging the relays someplace in the dash and using the existing wires out to the motors. Having said that, I do realize the old wires have potentially higher resistance so I may pull new wires anyway.

Why the relays in the door and not the dashboard?

Are the diodes really necessary? I read they extend the life of the relay. What, from a really long time to a really really long time?
 

kasbatts

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I was thinking of ganging the relays under the back seat, and then running real good quality wire to the doors to keep the voltage up
 

61porsche

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Stop

Measure the voltage at the switch.

They get gummed up/ loose good contact since they're just copper/ brass inside the plastic. You can take them apart, but you can buy new for still pretty cheap ( I think, last time I did two years ago just for the new chrome.)
 

Bwana

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Measure the voltage at the switch.

They get gummed up/ loose good contact since they're just copper/ brass inside the plastic. You can take them apart, but you can buy new for still pretty cheap ( I think, last time I did two years ago just for the new chrome.)

So you think we're getting these big voltage drops because of the switch?

My concern is running that much current thru a switch like this. I have a number of high current accessories on my bike and I've put relays in all the circuits. Switches switch, relays power.....:D
 

Stevehose

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Convenience. With the relays in the door all the wires except one hot power wire are there. If you remote mounted the relays elsewhere you'd have to run more wires or rewire the existing switches. You only need a small voltage to activate the relay so the dropped voltage from the old switch/wires are not an issue. A fresh heavy gauge power wire supplies a full 12v to the motors. I don't know about the diodes, I took the others' word that it was a good thing to do and it wasn't hard to include them. Radio Shack.

Why the relays in the door and not the dashboard?

Are the diodes really necessary? I read they extend the life of the relay. What, from a really long time to a really really long time?
 

deQuincey

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very good photos and write up
now you are leading the path
i will follow your work now
mines are manual windows, probably easier to fix

diodes are a must, but i learnt that there are relays that include the diodes internally to their construction
 

Stevehose

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I forgot to mention the arm is under tension so be careful when pulling out the gearbox, the arm will want to spring open with considerable force!

Excellent! Hadn't occured to me to rotate the gear. Doh!
 

61porsche

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Yep

first remove all the voltage drop. If you measured it at the motor; that's a huge drop. Usually anything over half a volt means trouble.

At least get some contact cleaner and spray the switches after you pull them from the console. They're really simple switches- two brass "springs" and a brass bar. That brass turns and corrodes and just needs cleaned.

I had one come apart. Come to find out there were two ways to wire up the motors depending on type.

Don't get me wrong- if you want to take everything apart and clean it up go right ahead. But you've got a voltage drop that's unusual.

61 is still 6 volt. Ask me how I know? Even in a sealed lamp enclosure with gaskets moisture gets in. I just cleaned/ refurbished license plate lamps that are screwed on the bumper that are sitting on the bench. Much less 40 years+ old on a BMW.
 

Bwana

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The plot thickens...

Seems if I do the "due dilligence" thing I should also check the voltage coming from the fuse box to the switch. Looks like an evening with the voltmeter, not the wrenchs and degreaser. :sad:
 

Bwana

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OK, got the VOM out and rechecked the feed. 11.75 VDC from the leads to the lift motor, 12.63 VDC directly on the battery. So I'm loosing about 3/4 volt from the battery to the lift motor. I don't think that's a crisis for a 40 year old wiring harness, I think the lift speed is partly a result of the 40 YO grease.

Would the voltage drop of 5 volts previously measured be a result of the engine being off and the power drain from the lift motor? WOW!

I've been considering the location of the relay/diode (long ride home from work today :-D). I think Steve's point of using the existing wiring plus one single power wire has merit. Plus, now that I've checked the voltage from the switch, I know the relay will pick up.

What's the number for the relay? I can probably get it at NAPA
 

Bwana

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OK, so now I've cleaned up the gear drive and motor (didn't take it apart). I used this for grease:

PA190044.jpg


It's lightweight but designed for EP service

Job done

PA190045.jpg


The plastic backing broke but I think this will work. I used duct tape (the real stuff) over the broken pieces

PA260046.jpg



The motor still gets really slow in about the last 4 inches of travel in the up direction. I made the mistake of loosening the bolts that hold the track brackets to the glass when I did the original disassembly. The cap screws against the glass (you can only see one in this photo)

PA260049.jpg


Well, the window seems to have shifted because it's really slow at the top, almost doesn't make it. I've loosened the four bolts and run the window up and down to try and "settle it into position" but no luck. I'm also reading the voltage at the motor as 8.5 VDC. I've got the relays but am trying to avoid installing them. Looks like I may have to.

Edit: I just tried full voltage to the motor via a direct jumper. The window definitely jumps to the top but this doesn't seem right to have to use voltage to overcome the resistance of the window in the track

But why is the window so stiff at the top now? Any suggestions on how to adjust it?
 
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