That is nice Steve,
evrything will look so good and clean, beautiful
evrything will look so good and clean, beautiful
Engine rebuild and engine bay resto thread - 2240284 '72 CS
- Thread starter Stevehose
- Start date
Good idea on the vapor hone, but like @bluecoupe30! mentions, the skilled shops/servoces are getting hard to find here, I have been unable to find a vapor honer in the area, and so far I am reluctant to box and ship more parts. You Californians have it good, here in FL, vapor honing means driving fast in the rain!
Never ever media blast a valve cover without first removing the baffle plate.
Today the engine bay paint prep went another 6 hours of scraping and sweating. The hood was in the way of my relentless mission creep so off it went (I drilled alignment holes in the hinges) and I will likely clean up inside the front clip as best as possible and either paint or silver por-15 it:
Keen eyes will notice I decided to remove the tar insulation to see what lurks below, I am able to remove the original decals so I will save those and put them back on a new set from CS Werk.
Happily, my fenders look pretty darn good for 51 untouched years. The previous 3 owners never daily drove the car or in foul weather (according to them), and when I bought the car I cavity waxed the bejesus out of it. I scraped off the residual tar and cavity wax and will finish getting it off and cleaning more tomorrow and will re-wax the seams before priming. The folded seams of the E9 fender design is ridicuous, no wonder this can be a horror show underneath:
Next up will be to finish sanding, rust convert any bare metal, then prime. A quick forensic glance indicates these cars were primed, then the tar insulation installed, then on went the paint. Pistons are due in any day now for the awaiting machinist and more parts arrive daily. My go-to suppliers have been Belmetric, FCP Euro, Autohaus AZ, Walloth, and eBay.
Slow but very satisfying progress, the more I get into this the more I realize how much it's needed.
Keen eyes will notice I decided to remove the tar insulation to see what lurks below, I am able to remove the original decals so I will save those and put them back on a new set from CS Werk.
Happily, my fenders look pretty darn good for 51 untouched years. The previous 3 owners never daily drove the car or in foul weather (according to them), and when I bought the car I cavity waxed the bejesus out of it. I scraped off the residual tar and cavity wax and will finish getting it off and cleaning more tomorrow and will re-wax the seams before priming. The folded seams of the E9 fender design is ridicuous, no wonder this can be a horror show underneath:
Next up will be to finish sanding, rust convert any bare metal, then prime. A quick forensic glance indicates these cars were primed, then the tar insulation installed, then on went the paint. Pistons are due in any day now for the awaiting machinist and more parts arrive daily. My go-to suppliers have been Belmetric, FCP Euro, Autohaus AZ, Walloth, and eBay.
Slow but very satisfying progress, the more I get into this the more I realize how much it's needed.
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I have to say, doing the engine bay was the worst. Wear gloves, lots of nicked fingers and knuckles. Oh so many tight little places and it never seems to be just right . Always some little crevice left to sand. But, the reward is great.
People have made a big deal of the tar installation, but it comes off easily enough with the scraper and heat gun, better yet, a map gas cylinder torch. A little tar vapor never hurt anyone and that’s all it is.
And, of course, you’ve gotta get all those little fiddly bits to the zinc guy.
I don’t know about the coops, but removing the hood makes everything a lot easier. Mine went back on fairly easily on a trial run.
I plan on installing the engine from the bottom, attaching it to the sub frame and jacking it in. Dropping the sub frame is fairly easy. If you’ve got the time, the E3 has 4 bolts attaching it to the frame and of course you’ve got the shocks. I’ve done the shoe horn approach, and it ain’t easy with the tranny attached. And attaching the tranny after you’ve got the motor in is even less fun.
I’m sure you’ll do just fine. Fun with cars.
People have made a big deal of the tar installation, but it comes off easily enough with the scraper and heat gun, better yet, a map gas cylinder torch. A little tar vapor never hurt anyone and that’s all it is.
And, of course, you’ve gotta get all those little fiddly bits to the zinc guy.
I don’t know about the coops, but removing the hood makes everything a lot easier. Mine went back on fairly easily on a trial run.
I plan on installing the engine from the bottom, attaching it to the sub frame and jacking it in. Dropping the sub frame is fairly easy. If you’ve got the time, the E3 has 4 bolts attaching it to the frame and of course you’ve got the shocks. I’ve done the shoe horn approach, and it ain’t easy with the tranny attached. And attaching the tranny after you’ve got the motor in is even less fun.
I’m sure you’ll do just fine. Fun with cars.
That's a looming mission creep. But I will have to put it back in in order to wheel the car out into the driveway to get the engine in. Yes, with the hood off I will be able to mount the clutch on the engine stand which is better than doing it on my back with it 4 inches from my face, among other benefits.
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Great work Steve! You are doing what I feel many of us see is in our future. Watching closely and learning from someone who alway tries to do it right! Godspeed my friend! 
Mike
Mike
a practice that you might find useful, Steve
A friend was very concerned and had a lot of doubts as to install or not the sound deadening pieces and then paint or what to do
here it is a possible way
first paint the body
and then separately paint the sound deadeners
finally place the sound deadeners on top
I personally prefer the car without sound deadeners.
Steve, this is looking great! you are really helping an already wonderful coupe become amazing. keep it up. i am with @merdad on the deletion of the sound deadeners. so which firewall insulation are you using? are you making your own, buying from CS Werk or Coupeking? i seem to remember you were going to make your own. as somebody who has seen your coupe multiple times, i am really looking forward to seeing it when this is complete
I'm glad you asked, I just bought both and was wondering the same thing.
Sound deadening still TBD, I am leaning towards replacing it, especially since my repaint is not being done at a high end body shop. And I'd like to keep the orginal look. I dunno yet. Thanks for the encouragement, this is a pita.
I bought the nice $$$ upper one from walloth, my lower ones from cs werk are ok, and I will make the one for the brake booster firewall
You made the correct choices
Steve--There is a guy in the Ft.Lauderdale area that is an airplane mechanic that also does vapor blasting. He did my valve cover and then painted it satin black.
I can get his contact info. if you're interested -- Vapor Blast Specialties in Pompano. He is also a BMW owner and does nice work.
I asked Christoph about the sound deadening and his reply:
Hello Mehrdad,
we also thought about it for a long time here in the Coupe Club.
In the case of coupes that have been restored and come from the same year of
construction, different surfaces of the bitumen came to light.
So we think that the bitumen that the supplier was able to run was installed
by BMW...
Rg Chris
Hello Mehrdad,
we also thought about it for a long time here in the Coupe Club.
In the case of coupes that have been restored and come from the same year of
construction, different surfaces of the bitumen came to light.
So we think that the bitumen that the supplier was able to run was installed
by BMW...
Rg Chris
Thanks, I found a place in Tampa
coupe2800cs
Well-Known Member
What engine is this 3.2L ?