Diagnostic Plug Delete

[decoupe]

I am well into the process of converting from a distributor, coil and carburetor to a fully digital EFI. Intake manifold/throttle body/fuel rail/MAP, Hall effect pickup (timing trigger) and high pressure fuel supply are all installed and I’m ready to install the ECU, coil packs and wire harness.

Almost none of the wiring associated with the old ignition system is used so I have opened the wiring harness back to the fuse block (that was slow and awkward) and eliminated all of it and any other circuits that were abandoned/replaced/bypassed over the years by myself and PO’s. This is what happens when you can’t drive the car for 6 months of the year because of winter. Idle hands are the devil’s playground.

I want to convert the diagnostic plug into a remote starter button and eliminate as many of the wires at the plug as possible and here I need advice. If the plug is arranged 1,2,3 as pins closest to firewall and 1,4,7 is the engine – the diagnostic plug is as below. For a remote start the switch should connect 1 and 7 (which is battery hot and starter). Correct? Everything else can be removed without creating any issues?

Firewall

1,2,3
Engine 4,5,6
7,8,9

Where
1. Battery hot
2. Ignition on
3. Negative (chassis ground)
4. Empty
5. Empty
6. Empty
7. Starter
8. Charge (alt light)
9. RPM/Dwell

Thanks,
Doug

 

[pmansson]

Are you referring to the small socket with an orange lid, placed very close to the power steering fluid reservoir and old voltage regulator??
Why do you want a remote starter button?
2 of my 60s Jaguar saloons have it (in the engine room). I rarely use it.

 

[kfrito789]

I use a Craftsman Remote Starter Switch between the Battery + and the Start pin. For me, it's perfect for setting Dwell and adjusting valves.

 

[decoupe]

Yes it is the orange cover nine pin plug. Might just get rid of it all but am I right that pins 1 and 7 will turn the engine over?


Doug

 

[JhwShark]

Doug,
IIRC, you have the alignment correct. I do remember the rows are 123, 456, 789 obviously 456 are the middle; just not sure which was forward. You can test it at 1 and/or 2 ( with ig switch at ON) to 3; right? My rig is down right now or I'd go test.

The inductive pickup on SP#1 goes to pin 4,5,6. Pin 2 also comes from inductive p-up on HT Coil to Dist lead.

You may want to consider, instead of using pin 1, running a heavier gage wire directly from the Bat for a permanent remote start. I an not sure where you are placing the switch, or are you thinking build a plug with the remo-starter attached? Then, when needed just plug and play??

Jon