CSi: How to remove hose cap from injector
- Thread starter chicane
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Use a sharp razor blade to score the hose so that it splits & then pull it off. Be careful not to go all the way and hit the barb. Cruzin performance fuel injection shop told me they use a soldering gun to melt the hose perimeter off the barb of the fuel injector. It also works really well. The metal ring is a loose fit & will come right off.
chicane
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Cool, and when refitting a new hose, I am assuming to just use a screw clamp?
DO NOT use hose clamps (either worm or FI type) on the injector "barbed" nipple. The hose clamps do not form a perfect seal on these types of nipples. If fitted, they will almost guarantee an instant leak. It's OK to use these types of clamps on a single bulbed nipple such as the type that's is on the original 3.0CSi fuel rail. No worm clamp is needed on the injector end if the hose was correctly fitted with the original brass "bowl' fitting.
Use oem Bmiw 8x13mm fuel injection hose as it is a better fit than the smaller 7.5mm hose. By using the smaller hose, you may have an impossible time fitting them into the injectors and fuel rail.
Read this thread on fuel injector hose changing I'd posted on another forum. Although it is setup for the later Bosch L-jet with its tubular fuel rail, the application is almost the same as on the D-jets. http://bigcoupe.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=9598&highlight=
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chicane
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What if I need to get another brass "bowl' fitting?
Still available through the dealer, part #8---"sleeve" http://www.bmwmobiletradition-onlin...el=5233&mospid=47204&btnr=13_0186&hg=13&fg=15 Suppose the brass fitting is only there to cover the hose ends to prevent it from fraying and does not offer any clamping or sealing properties.
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chicane
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NAPA carries them for a lot less. Also there was one injector (in the center) that had a single barb and a huge clamp, any ideas?
Tyler
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I have two leaky injectors, recently discovered after trying to find the source of a gas smell. Not surprisingly, all six of the short hoses from the fuel rail to my injectors are secured by hose clamps on both ends, and none have the brass fitting. I will be replacing them all in the way recommended above by bert35csi.
For those who have done this, what is the most efficient way to access the D-jet fuel rail and injectors? Does the entire intake need to come off?
Thanks,
For those who have done this, what is the most efficient way to access the D-jet fuel rail and injectors? Does the entire intake need to come off?
Thanks,
Tyler,
Yes, the the entire intake manifold apparatus needs to come out, although, it is not as difficult as it seems.
Remove all ancillary parts such as all hoses, electrical connectors and other miscellaneous parts. Remove the 6 banana shaped intake pipes. Finally unbolt the air plenum by removing the the 2 bolts that are attached to 2 triangular mounting brackets. There is one last tether that is attached to the plenum...a water hose that is connected to the bottom of the throttle assembly. Clamp the hose with a clamping tool to prevent coolant seepage and lift out plenum .
The re-installation is the reverse of the above procedures. It'll be a good idea to order all new intake runner gaskets as the old ones are surely all dried out and will need to be replaced. It will be necessary to scrape off all the old gaskets, you maybe lucky if they come out in one piece but chances are that they are probably baked on.
On to the fuel rail and injectors removal. The process should be pretty self evident at this point where everything is all exposed. One tip in disconnecting the injector electrical plugs, pry out the locking clips and remove them carefully as dropping them into the engine abyss probably mean "never to be seen again". In addition to the injector hoses renewal, you should also replace all the rubber fuel hoses on the fuel rail. Probably would be a good idea to use all new oem worm hose clamps. Hose clamps were originally fitted on the D-jet fuel rail single bulb nipples. Replace all injector rubber seals and ceramic insulators as covered in this link: http://bigcoupe.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=9598&highlight=
This was my D-jet fuel rail prior to my L-jet tubular fuel rail conversion.
Yes, the the entire intake manifold apparatus needs to come out, although, it is not as difficult as it seems.
Remove all ancillary parts such as all hoses, electrical connectors and other miscellaneous parts. Remove the 6 banana shaped intake pipes. Finally unbolt the air plenum by removing the the 2 bolts that are attached to 2 triangular mounting brackets. There is one last tether that is attached to the plenum...a water hose that is connected to the bottom of the throttle assembly. Clamp the hose with a clamping tool to prevent coolant seepage and lift out plenum .
The re-installation is the reverse of the above procedures. It'll be a good idea to order all new intake runner gaskets as the old ones are surely all dried out and will need to be replaced. It will be necessary to scrape off all the old gaskets, you maybe lucky if they come out in one piece but chances are that they are probably baked on.
On to the fuel rail and injectors removal. The process should be pretty self evident at this point where everything is all exposed. One tip in disconnecting the injector electrical plugs, pry out the locking clips and remove them carefully as dropping them into the engine abyss probably mean "never to be seen again". In addition to the injector hoses renewal, you should also replace all the rubber fuel hoses on the fuel rail. Probably would be a good idea to use all new oem worm hose clamps. Hose clamps were originally fitted on the D-jet fuel rail single bulb nipples. Replace all injector rubber seals and ceramic insulators as covered in this link: http://bigcoupe.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=9598&highlight=
This was my D-jet fuel rail prior to my L-jet tubular fuel rail conversion.
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Tyler
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Hi Bert - Got the fuel system apart and found that I have both the old and new types of injectors. The old injector (on the right) has a single barb rather than multiple ones on the new injector. Question is, do the old ones require a hose clamp, or shall I use the brass sleeve method as I would for the new one?
Tyler,
Don't think the brass sleeve is going to work on the old single bulb injector as it will undoubtedly leak. Believe these types of injectors were originally fitted with crimped on collars to connect the rubber hoses. You'll need to get some "fuel injector clamps" for the early single bulb injectors. These types of clamps can offer better clamping pressure and do not back off as easily as the typical worm hose clamps.
Pictured below is the stainless steel fuel injector clamp. They come in various sizes, so choose the appropriate ones for the 8x13mm fuel hose. These clamps are usually sold in well stocked auto supply stores. As a matter of fact, the old style BMW hose clamps used prior to the mid 1970's are very similar in design to these FI hose clamps.
Don't think the brass sleeve is going to work on the old single bulb injector as it will undoubtedly leak. Believe these types of injectors were originally fitted with crimped on collars to connect the rubber hoses. You'll need to get some "fuel injector clamps" for the early single bulb injectors. These types of clamps can offer better clamping pressure and do not back off as easily as the typical worm hose clamps.
Pictured below is the stainless steel fuel injector clamp. They come in various sizes, so choose the appropriate ones for the 8x13mm fuel hose. These clamps are usually sold in well stocked auto supply stores. As a matter of fact, the old style BMW hose clamps used prior to the mid 1970's are very similar in design to these FI hose clamps.
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nimble_n_quick
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I highly recommend using Oetiker clamps for this application. The Oetiker style is very reliable, and comes in stainless steel.
Clamps require a special plier, and are available in every size imaginable. They can be purchased from McMaster Carr.
Link: http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/115/257/=445zjm
Clamps require a special plier, and are available in every size imaginable. They can be purchased from McMaster Carr.
Link: http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/115/257/=445zjm
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Tyler
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Thanks guys. I've tried both the FI and worm type clamps, and still get a leak at the injector when pressurized. The pinch clamps look ideal as the band is narrower than the other types and therefore will clamp entirely below the bulb. Hope I can find them locally here in the UK.
Tyler
Well-Known Member
Just as follow up to this thread, I used the "Oetiker" style pinch clamps and have zero leaks now. Every other type of hose clamp resulted in leaks.