5 speed swap solutions

nobrakese28

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Hi Don,

Great information. I am almost certain that I was able to use an automatic transmission driveshaft (length modified) with an E34 M5 guibo with no cutting of the nose was necessary, this might be helpful for anyone doing the auto to manual swap.

-Marco
 

Ohmess

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I'm gathering parts for the install of my Getrag 265/6 in my 2800CS and I may have ordered the wrong part for the transmission support. I now have the aluminum support, 23-71-1-175-731 instead of the stamped steel one 23-71-1-175-314.
I believe I read that the steel one is stronger. I'm keeping the stock 2.8L engine and I don't plan to do any sort of racing about. Will this part work for me (fit) and is there any reason to believe that it won't be suitable for day to day driving?

Ian

Ian - I have that part installed in my car now, primarily because I was midstream into my swap when I learned that the stamped steel part is preferable. It has not caused me any trouble, but I have not run my car a lot since the swap. Also, the nuts that hold it to the underside of the car are very close to the slots that allow them to be turned sideways and removed from the vehicle.

Because the stamped steel part is stronger and because of the way the aluminum part is installed, I plan to switch to a stamped steel support after I get her running again.
 

sfdon

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The automatic driveshaft has the short nose
The manual driveshaft is the problem
It used the 45mm guibo
 

Antar

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If you are putting together a work list of parts needed and of cutting your driveshaft- you should consider these items.....

Automatic and manual coupes use completely different guibos.
Different shape, different size, different construction.
They are not interchangeable. The original 5 speed Guibo was known as the "grenade"
for its tendency to explode into little pieces under your car.
All guibos after the grenade used fiber reinforcement.
At my shop I only use m5 guibos from the e34 cars. They are good for 300hp+
Cost is about 40 bucks on fleabay. I buy the MTC brand -usually 38 bucks with free shipping.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...0.Xbmw+.TRS1&_nkw=bmw+26112226527&_sacat=6000

Automatic and manual driveshafts have a large difference in length of "nose"
Trying to assemble a manual driveshaft with a long nose into a modern Guibo or the period correct auto Guibo is a failure.
The nose will hit the output flange of the tranny and leave you 15mm of space.

For the record- there are 3 lengths of guibos.

30mm
35mm
45mm

Trying to use a 30mm Guibo on a manual tranny driveshaft is a fail
Trying to use a 35mm Guibo on a manual tranny driveshaft is a fail
Using a 45 mm Guibo is a fail because it is outdated junk.

The simple answer is to use the m5 Guibo and cut 15mm of the nose off of the manual driveshaft.
You also need to cut 3/8" off the output shaft so it won't bottom out in the nose.

Remember to use bolts that match Guibo thickness!
26111225754
Hex bolt
M12X1,5X60
Searching forms can be a powerful tool to get ask & answered questions. Especially because many questions are not new when it comes with dealing with our cars. Thanks Don this old message was right on point, I was using the old 5 Speed Conversion article and was lookin for an E12 Guibo for my 5 speed conversion. Now thanks to your shared knowledge I am going to look for an M5 Guibo and make the modifications that you mentioned.
 

Rouge

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Hello everyone, I am preparing to convert my 3.0 CS manual from 4 to 5 speeds with a Getrag 265/6.
I will translate your comments as I am a French speaker.
Can you confirm that I can use a driveshaft from an 2800 automatic without cutting it just by taking care to put a flector of 45 ?
 

Ohmess

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I had my driveshaft from a 3.0 CS modified. Not sure about the 2800.
 

Ohmess

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And since this thread has been revived, I'll update my comment on the transmission mount. I tried both the aluminum and steel mounts in my car. In both cases, I thought the the nuts that hold the mount (and hence the transmission) to the underside of the car are too close to the slots that allow them to be turned sideways and removed. I changed to the Coupe King mount, which is much better.

If anyone wants to go down the path of trying the inferior aluminum and/or steel mounts in their cars, you can have the ones I pulled from my car for the cost of postage. Just start a conversation.

Update Feb 9, 2022: Well, that was fast - my inventory of mounts is gone!
 
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Gransin

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I thought the the nuts that hold the mount (and hence the transmission) to the underside of the car are too close to the slots that allow them to be turned sideways and removed.

I fully agree that the CK mount is a way better and nicer product.
But for anyone looking to cheap out like me, another solution is to make your own mounts/adapters out of a piece of flat bar.
First weld a threaded rod/bolt without the head to the flatbar for the transmission mount (drill a hole in the flat bar, use a countersink drillbit to make room for a proper weld, then weld from the top side), then drill two holes at each end of the bar, that way you can have two bolts in the slot, far away from the opening in the slot.

Untitled 2.jpg
 

Markos

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I fully agree that the CK mount is a way better and nicer product.
But for anyone looking to cheap out like me, another solution is to make your own mounts/adapters out of a piece of flat bar.
First weld a threaded rod/bolt without the head to the flatbar for the transmission mount (drill a hole in the flat bar, use a countersink drillbit to make room for a proper weld, then weld from the top side), then drill two holes at each end of the bar, that way you can have two bolts in the slot, far away from the opening in the slot.

I quite like the look of your solution!
 

dang

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I fully agree that the CK mount is a way better and nicer product.
But for anyone looking to cheap out like me, another solution is to make your own mounts/adapters out of a piece of flat bar.
First weld a threaded rod/bolt without the head to the flatbar for the transmission mount (drill a hole in the flat bar, use a countersink drillbit to make room for a proper weld, then weld from the top side), then drill two holes at each end of the bar, that way you can have two bolts in the slot, far away from the opening in the slot.
If I understand your photo correctly, couldn't you accomplish the same thing by added a "washer" that secures with two bolts, one in the standard position and the other to keep it from moving. Like yours but without the extra bolt/hole.

trans mount lock washer.jpg
 

Gransin

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If I understand your photo correctly, couldn't you accomplish the same thing by added a "washer" that secures with two bolts, one in the standard position and the other to keep it from moving. Like yours but without the extra bolt/hole.

View attachment 135805

In my case the transmission mount bolt was too close to the opening in the slot, so that didn't feel safe enough for me, but as with most things on these cars YMMV.
If the transmission mount bolt is a bit offset to the opening, a "washer" solution would be neater.
 

Candia4441

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If you are putting together a work list of parts needed and of cutting your driveshaft- you should consider these items.....

Automatic and manual coupes use completely different guibos.
Different shape, different size, different construction.
They are not interchangeable. The original 5 speed Guibo was known as the "grenade"
for its tendency to explode into little pieces under your car.
All guibos after the grenade used fiber reinforcement.
At my shop I only use m5 guibos from the e34 cars. They are good for 300hp+
Cost is about 40 bucks on fleabay. I buy the MTC brand -usually 38 bucks with free shipping.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...0.Xbmw+.TRS1&_nkw=bmw+26112226527&_sacat=6000

Automatic and manual driveshafts have a large difference in length of "nose"
Trying to assemble a manual driveshaft with a long nose into a modern Guibo or the period correct auto Guibo is a failure.
The nose will hit the output flange of the tranny and leave you 15mm of space.

For the record- there are 3 lengths of guibos.

30mm
35mm
45mm

Trying to use a 30mm Guibo on a manual tranny driveshaft is a fail
Trying to use a 35mm Guibo on a manual tranny driveshaft is a fail
Using a 45 mm Guibo is a fail because it is outdated junk.

The simple answer is to use the m5 Guibo and cut 15mm of the nose off of the manual driveshaft.
You also need to cut 3/8" off the output shaft so it won't bottom out in the nose.

Remember to use bolts that match Guibo thickness!
26111225754
Hex bolt
M12X1,5X60
one of my E9 is auto and I just start the upgrade, and How many mm is M5 Guibo is that we need to cut 15mm and 3/4" of the drive shafts nose
 

Candia4441

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If I understand your photo correctly, couldn't you accomplish the same thing by added a "washer" that secures with two bolts, one in the standard position and the other to keep it from moving. Like yours but without the extra bolt/hole.

View attachment 135805
this is very nice if I knew this I wouldn't spend $350 on stainless steel bracket
 

Candia4441

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If I understand your photo correctly, couldn't you accomplish the same thing by added a "washer" that secures with two bolts, one in the standard position and the other to keep it from moving. Like yours but without the extra bolt/hole.

View attachment 135805
sorry the price was $365 plus shipping from Coupking check the pix
 

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tferrer

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Since we are talking 5-speeds, let me shamelessly plug my clean bill of health, 265/5 dogleg, CR box for sale. Just sayin...

DM for details. Don't want to take this highly stimulating post off track...
 

Antar

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sorry the price was $365 plus shipping from Coupking check the pix
Yes it is. I purchased one for my 5sp conversion this fall. Oh well at least I know this is a tried and true method for many who have done this conversation already.
 
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