38 Weber conversion and purchasing decision

[CeylonstonE9]

I am about to buy a 38 weber carburetor kit. Going with 38 because I think it is the best without changing the engine's stock look.

For me reliability is the most important thing.

Now I found a seller who sells Webers some times. His ebay name: 77o.596.2333
He doesn't have a listing now but I emailed him and he says $776 for 38 webers shipped.

Anybody have any experience with this seller or any advise where to purchase weber conversion kits.

 

[Ohmess]

What are you changing from, and why are you changing?

Also, by stock look do you mean retaining the stock air cleaner? I had Weber 32 36 DGAVs on my car with the stock air cleaner before I changed to sidedrafts. With the air cleaner assembly installed, it was hard to tell anything had been changed.

And finally, the ebay name you posted appears to be a phone number.

 

[TodB]

Some shops (Redline Weber, TEP, etc) will jet carbs as you designate or can make suggetions if you tell them a bit about your motor and mods. May I also suggest a 123 dizzy. We were having a bear of a time with my 38s getting the off throttle/on throttle transition smoothed out. We got it close but the 123 dizzy resolved those issues and made my motor sewing machine smooth. The programmable dizzy is nice also because you can fine tune the curve very easily and get the most from your motor (and new carbs). Mine fit right nicely under the stock air filter housing so it looks original.

 

[CeylonstonE9]

What are you changing from, and why are you changing?

Also, by stock look do you mean retaining the stock air cleaner? I had Weber 32 36 DGAVs on my car with the stock air cleaner before I changed to sidedrafts. With the air cleaner assembly installed, it was hard to tell anything had been changed.

And finally, the ebay name you posted appears to be a phone number.

I have zenits came with the car. They look like junk and needs to be fixed so I decided instead of spending money for zenith repairs I go for new webers. My mechanic told me there is no difference between 36 and 38 webers about reliability. Then I decided to for 38 but I am still not %100 sure.

Yes that is a phone number now I relies I may call the guy.

 

[CeylonstonE9]

Some shops (Redline Weber, TEP, etc) will jet carbs as you designate or can make suggetions if you tell them a bit about your motor and mods. May I also suggest a 123 dizzy. We were having a bear of a time with my 38s getting the off throttle/on throttle transition smoothed out. We got it close but the 123 dizzy resolved those issues and made my motor sewing machine smooth. The programmable dizzy is nice also because you can fine tune the curve very easily and get the most from your motor (and new carbs). Mine fit right nicely under the stock air filter housing so it looks original.

Thanks for the 38 weber feedback. How much is the 123 dizzy ? I need to keep an eye on my budget too.
If 123 dizzy too expensive and 36 is problem free without anything, I may go for 36.

 

[jmackro]

My mechanic told me there is no difference between 36 and 38 webers about reliability. Then I decided to for 38 but I am still not %100 sure.

Your mechanic is correct that the 32/36's and 38/38's have the same reliability. But that sure doesn't mean that they are the same in all regards.

I am assuming that you have a 3L engine. For street use, a pair of 38/38's is a lot of carburation for a 3L engine. I think you'll have an easier time getting smooth low-speed performance with 32/36's. Read TodB's message below; his experience trying to get good off throttle/on throttle transition with 38/38's is not uncommon. Unless you have a 3.5L engine, or plan on racing, I'd recommend the 32/36's.

You might want to read what JAM Engineering says about 32/36's versus 38/38's at: http://www.jameng.com/products/BMW-2002-Weber-38{47}38-Conversion-Kit-w-Manifold.html

You will need an adapter to mate the Weber carbs to your stock air cleaner. JAM Engineering makes them, but I'll be darned if I can find just the adapters on their website.

 

[deQuincey]

zeniths are much superior carbs
it is a pity you can not try to keep them
the coupe in its stock, factory condition is a superb car
there are manuals, and videos to do this
i would recommend to do so

 

[Stan]

1-2-3 Distributor is about $500

 

[CeylonstonE9]

Your mechanic is correct that the 32/36's and 38/38's have the same reliability. But that sure doesn't mean that they are the same in all regards.

I am assuming that you have a 3L engine. For street use, a pair of 38/38's is a lot of carburation for a 3L engine. I think you'll have an easier time getting smooth low-speed performance with 32/36's. Read TodB's message below; his experience trying to get good off throttle/on throttle transition with 38/38's is not uncommon. Unless you have a 3.5L engine, or plan on racing, I'd recommend the 32/36's.

You might want to read what JAM Engineering says about 32/36's versus 38/38's at: http://www.jameng.com/products/BMW-2002-Weber-38{47}38-Conversion-Kit-w-Manifold.html

You will need an adapter to mate the Weber carbs to your stock air cleaner. JAM Engineering makes them, but I'll be darned if I can find just the adapters on their website.

Thanks a lot that is very useful info for me now I am closer to 36 because reliability in busy traffic is more important for me. About air cleaner adapter I think Redline weber on ebay also makes them. I need to choose one of those sellers.

 

[Stevehose]

Zeniths can be just as reliable as Weber 32's if they are rebuilt properly including leveling the body sections. But the Webers will leave power on the table versus the zeniths because they throttle the engine at higher rpm demands with its smaller secondary.

 

[viphoto]

I love my 38s.... But I do have a 3.5 with headers and my cars more of a driver so I am not one of those that has to have factory parts on my car.. On this site your gonna get weber lovers and haters...Personally new webers vs 40+ year old zeniths is one reason I went with the webers (as well as having had them on several past cars) If your looking for a better deal on them then buy them from Pierce Manifolds (they sell online as well as on EBAY $262 each no shipping) here is their current listing ...also Mike at Pierce is a carb expert... from VW bugs to the Ferraris that run at the Historics in Monterey. https://www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-WE...ash=item542bdf2370:g:GOYAAOSwwbdWOnKf&vxp=mtr

 

[jmackro]

About air cleaner adapter I think Redline weber on ebay also makes them. I need to choose one of those sellers.

JAM Engineering makes the carburetor adapters. A lot of companies re-sell them. If Redline carries them, then sure get them there.

 

[autowerks]

whichever carb you choose IMHO would be fine as long as it is jetted for M30 engines!

 

[NewSixCoupe]

Even using the JAM adapter the factory air cleaner housing sits too high and crushes the engine insulation pad. (Someone told me that using Ford Pinto insulators would lower the Webers enough to gain clearance, but I'm not interested in pursuing that fix.) And the housing clip closest to the firewall won't close; not enough clearance. That's partly why I'm reinstalling the original Zeniths, along with the reasons deQuincey and others outlined above.

 

['69 2800cs]

Weber 32/26's can be made to run beautifully if you take the time to jet them.

They are used on lots of aftermarket conversions for engines of all sizes, single applications, dual applications, so "out of the box" I wouldn't expect them to run better than OK.

But get an AFR gauge and jet them for your application and it's a huge difference...they are very tuneable. Lots of parts and support available too.

 

[Mike Goble]

As a graduate of the Alfred E. Newman School of Carburetion, I bought some repro 38's on Ebay and put them on, box stock, the day before I left for a 5000 mile trip to Mexico. Aside from a few teething problems with one choke mechanism they worked great, from sea level to 8000'. I enlarged the manifold openings to the same size as the throttles and used my existing custom made phenolic spacers.

 

[jmackro]

Even using the JAM adapter the factory air cleaner housing sits too high and crushes the engine insulation pad. And the housing clip closest to the firewall won't close; not enough clearance.

Yes, all that is true

Someone told me that using Ford Pinto insulators would lower the Webers enough to gain clearance,

A thinner insulator would reduce the "crushed hood pad problem". However, positioning the carbs lower may result in the linkage over-centering; e.g., getting stuck in the wide open position. Check linkage operation when using a thinner insulator.