I’ll ask the question. What’s this car worth?
Markos, you’ve been active while debating that other guy on BAT, so I’m sure you’re current on the comments.
- Could that sunroof really be a factory manual, converted to electric? If so, can steps be taken to make it appear fully factory? (Move the dome light, move the switch, replace the headliner, etc.?)
- Any thoughts on rust? The pics look OK, but there’s a layer of undercoat on that car.
- Good eye with the trunk body work. That looks very poor.
Here’s my deal. I want to build a restomod, but need an auto transmission for medical reasons. (Bad ankle.) Likely not the one that comes in the 2800, but my wild guess is that it can’t hurt to start with an auto to swap in another auto. If I want to drop in a modded M30, again, I’m thinking that an unmolested engine compartment would be a good start. I’m planning on doing body work and paint, so don’t mind buying a car that needs it, if the price is right. (You pay for body work in the purchase price or in the body shop. It makes little difference to me at the right price.)
So, they say that you should buy the best car when starting a build. Is this car too good? I’ll probably swap the drivetrain, brakes (maybe entire subframe from a 3.0), suspension, interior, and exterior. Is this car the right one to buy at (how much?) or is the right car a rustbucket 3.0 below $20K on EBay? My thought is that the existence of most of the parts on this car is a bonus, as you can get them refinished instead of hunting down parts cars to strip and refinish.
By the way, I’m getting brain surgery on Wednesday (seriously) so the timing on this auction isn’t great. If it’s the right car, I’ll arrange to get everything handled, though.
Bottom Line: Any guesses as to the hammer price on this car? Thanks, all.