The end is near....SCOTTeVEST's Baby

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mark99

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Between the 2 windows, where the b pillar would be, a chrome part and a seal
WN says they have the seals again after a long not available, if you order them, I would like to order also

The guy in Germany has repo for the under hood shock towers, to me looks good but not original
Many people leave it off

The one part of the firewall insulation is not available, the German guy has a repo for that

On seals the chrome parts under the 1/4 window, that was, is NLA, Coupe King has / had something, I am looking at their website and don't see it
I will post the link if and when I find it
 
milwaukeesk

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I must say, I'm impressed with the patience of the guys at the body shop. Many body guys would grow old quickly of all of the videos as a bit of an annoyance or feeling like they are not being trusted. These guys seem to be actually enjoying it more as you go. Sure the hours are increasing, but it seems like they genuinely want to get your ride sorted. It's nice to be able to go through a scenario like this with a reasonable shop. Dropping off a bottle of whiskey now and again wouldn't be a bad move to keep things this way.
 
scottevest

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mark99 said:
here is the 1/4 window seal from Coupe King
http://www.coupeking.com/product/cs-coupe-quarter-window-squeegee-felt-seals/
Click to expand...

Awesome. Gary said I needed 4 but seems that I may need just the 2 but below is confusing to me in terms of the external rubbers. Do I need those too?


One of the banes of restoring a CS for the last nearly 10 years has been replacing the curved seals on the rear side window chromes. The external rubbers are available at $140/pr but the required matching felts have been NLA for a long time. At Coupeking we have discovered a nice one piece alternative to the 2 pc original versions and offer them here. Shown mounted to one of my restored cars, the look and function of this one piece combo squeegee/felt is perfect. Good enough for our cars and will be good enough for your cars as well.

Sold as a set of 2 for 69.00 USD. Price includes shipping to USA 48. For international shipping add 15.00 USD
 
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milwakeesk said:
I must say, I'm impressed with the patience of the guys at the body shop. Many body guys would grow old quickly of all of the videos as a bit of an annoyance or feeling like they are not being trusted. These guys seem to be actually enjoying it more as you go. Sure the hours are increasing, but it seems like they genuinely want to get your ride sorted. It's nice to be able to go through a scenario like this with a reasonable shop. Dropping off a bottle of whiskey now and again wouldn't be a bad move to keep things this way.
Click to expand...

I agree completely. I was a bit concerned that they would not appreciate it, but like you said they seem to enjoy it. Good idea on the Whiskey. I offered to bring McDees over today.
 
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mark99 said:
Between the 2 windows, where the b pillar would be, a chrome part and a seal
WN says they have the seals again after a long not available, if you order them, I would like to order also

The guy in Germany has repo for the under hood shock towers, to me looks good but not original
Many people leave it off

The one part of the firewall insulation is not available, the German guy has a repo for that

On seals the chrome parts under the 1/4 window, that was, is NLA, Coupe King has / had something, I am looking at their website and don't see it
I will post the link if and when I find it
Click to expand...

Hard to follow everything here.
Do you have the part numbers or links for any of what you are referring to above so I can order. Thanks much.
 
scottevest

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teahead said:
Ya, when I first saw that pic, I thought it looked like surface rust too on that diff mount point. Good news for sure.

Still curious how the rest of the rockers look if the inner rocker needs replacing (of course, the outer will).

As far as engine compartment, remove as much as you can and take notes of where stuff goes. Remove radiator, firewall insulation (get new one from cs-werk.de), battery, etc. As much as you can really w/o the engine pull.

You're going about it all good. However, I'm wondering if the glass should be pulled and check the window channels. I suspect the front will need some attention if that glove box area has some rust.
Click to expand...

I don't think they intend to look at the rest of the rockers.
We are removing the front and rear glass, and attend to anything that needs attention then.
 
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bfeng said:
If you can’t tell one of your rear brakes isn’t working it probably means you are driving in a respectful and courteous manner. It’s also because E9’s are a bit nose heavy to begin with. Do you have an LSD in your car? That also affects how much you might notice a rear lateral brake imbalance.

Consider replacing all your brake flex lines if they are more than 10 years old. Have him check your under-body fuel lines for corrosion too.
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Not sure if I have an LSD. Was it stock in 74? I don't think it was added.
 
adawil2002

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Wonderful update!

Never seen a chrome strip on the back of the front door window. Just a rubber seal glued to the rear window glass. There is a polished aluminum strip on top of the front window.

Fender liners are Lokari can get either Aluminum or Plastic. I have the Aluminum. (picture)
https://www.lokari.de/fender/Product-description
 

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restart

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When you go down there, I am assuming you are talking about the rabbit hole..
I think you should ask yourself if you are ready to take up a new hobby:)
It’s fun, you will need a place near home to work on it..
 
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mulberryworks said:
I wouldn't lift a coupe by its jack points unless it was already confirmed the car was solid or I was already committed to taking the car apart to fix it because of the potential for damage to the rockers. There are far less destructive ways to find out what lurks within. The aforementioned cheap Chinese camera probe for your phone is a good start. I'd spend a bit more than the cheapest ones however as the resolution of the lowest cost ones is quite poor. Still, the difference between being able to see something vs. nothing at all is a big bang for your bucks.
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my advice is to jack a car up by the jack points BEFORE you buy it. i will never use the jack points on my coupe except in an emergency ... and i know that my rockers are solid
 
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Scott,

I apologize and it might be once again too negative or unfair and also scary, but the guys working on your car don't have too much of a clue about this specific chassis.

They just opened the outer part of the rocker panel, that is part of the rear quarter panel. So far it doesn't have too much to do with structural rocker issues. If I got it right in your last video, they just ordered this repair part for that covering. In fact this has nothing to do with rocker repairs. There are in general 3 more pieces, that are involved in building the complete rocker. (Look at the attached picture, where I packed every available parts together)

Actually you can see the outer rocker completely, because you removed the cover and cut out that section from the quarter panel, which is attached to that section on top of the outer rocker panel. You also can see a lot of the inner rocker panel from the inside of the passenger cabin and from under the floors, but there's no chance to make any statement to the condition of the most important part of the rocker, the inner beam, the part with the bunch of holes in it. Unless you inspect this cavity with a camera. In a lot of cases this part is also half eaten by our brown friend. And there are still some other sheet metal parts sitting around the end and middle section of the inner rocker. Parts of the inner rear wheel well or the bottom of the A and B-pillar. In a lot of cases these parts are also gone.

The determined repairs are good so far just to mainly cover rust common areas, and of course a bit more in regards to the axle mounts.

It is what I also would do, if I don't wanna do a restoration from deeper grounds.

Good luck

Ingo
 

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arnie said:
Scott,

I apologize and it might be once again too negative or unfair and also scary, but the guys working on your car don't have too much of a clue about this specific chassis.

They just opened the outer part of the rocker panel, that is part of the rear quarter panel. So far it doesn't have too much to do with structural rocker issues. If I got it right in your last video, they just ordered this repair part for that covering. In fact this has nothing to do with rocker repairs. There are in general 3 more pieces, that are involved in building the complete rocker. (Look at the attached picture, where I packed every available parts together)

Actually you can see the outer rocker completely, because you removed the cover and cut out that section from the quarter panel, which is attached to that section on top of the outer rocker panel. You also can see a lot of the inner rocker panel from the inside of the passenger cabin and from under the floors, but there's no chance to make any statement to the condition of the most important part of the rocker, the inner beam, the part with the bunch of holes in it. Unless you inspect this cavity with a camera. In a lot of cases this part is also half eaten by our brown friend. And there are still some other sheet metal parts sitting around the end and middle section of the inner rocker. Parts of the inner rear wheel well or the bottom of the A and B-pillar. In a lot of cases these parts are also gone.

The determined repairs are good so far just to mainly cover rust common areas, and of course a bit more in regards to the axle mounts.

It is what I also would do, if I don't wanna do a restoration from deeper grounds.

Good luck

Ingo
Click to expand...

I sent this to my shop. Thanks. Note that we have not planned a complete rocker rebuild at this time, but willing to do it if the shop is in agreement it is needed.
 
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Scott,

I didn't want to critizise the shop. It's just maybe the reason, why they offer the rocker "repairs" for such a reasonable price, while the mayority here might have thought, that you planned to cut out also the outer rocker, inspect and exchange maybe parts or sections of the middle beam and attached components of the A- and B- pillar etc.. As I wrote earlier I personally would't do a complete rocker repair or exchange, when a complete restoration of the rest of the car is not an option yet.
 
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