Wiring harness strategies.

Nicad

Well-Known Member
Site Donor
Messages
3,521
Reaction score
545
Location
Toronto
My Coupe has been on the back burner for many years now. I'd say I have too much stuff asking me to care about it. I think I have a good stretch of time ahead , a comfy space and hopefully the memory to get things back on track. Doing my inventory of the state of things I have noticed the wiring harness has some issues. Some wires have overheated and melted their sockets, some insulation has left some of the wires. At this point is there no oprtion but rip it all out and buy a new harness if you can find one. (Initial looking around had one in the UK for $5,000 Cdn!. I really don't want to rip the interior apart and go too deep, don't trust myself to get that job done. WHat have you done to your harness if it is still original? Grafted on new connections and replaced suspect wires?
Tia.
 

ScottAndrews

Well-Known Member
Messages
307
Reaction score
46
Location
Petaluma, CA
I am faced with a similar issue. The harness, especially under the instrument panel looks like spaghetti hash. I can probably re-organize it, but I wonder if it might be better to just make a new one. I am also motivated after reading of BarnyT's near disaster with his harness (fire).

I did a full body-off resotration of an early Bronco back in 2008, and was able, fortunately to get a brand new replica harness,and that made putting the truck together again a breeze. No crappy connections, nit dirty wires or crumbling insulation.

I am thinking of carefully removing the harness and stretching it out on a big board anchored with nails at the junction points (this is how they used to make these), and then get a load of different colors and striped colors to match the original wires, and just replicate the harness. Ancor makes spade terminals that crimp on and then heat shrink to seal the crimp joint (it's for marine electrics. Not stone stock, but MUCH better for long term reliability.

On the Bronco I used PowerBraid, which is a braided split mesh that wraps around the wire bundles. It comes in different sizes, and you can zip tie the bundes to keep them together.

For connectors, I'd either try to replace them with like types, or splice in the originals. Many are still in use (headlamps, relays, and such)..

If you decide to just splice in new wire sections and connectors, I'd invest ina good quality terminal crimper. then youcan crimp termials to wires and re-install them into connector bodies. Also use Ancor heat shrink splices. These are crimp barrels that have the same shrink covering with a thermally actiavted gel that encases the joint and prevents moisture intrusion. What you do NOT want to do is twist wires together and tape them.
 

Nicad

Well-Known Member
Site Donor
Messages
3,521
Reaction score
545
Location
Toronto
Thanks for the reply Scott. I think I am gonna have to dig a lot deeper into this and take my time. Oh more time. I have friends worried they will die before they get a ride.
 

ScottAndrews

Well-Known Member
Messages
307
Reaction score
46
Location
Petaluma, CA
It really depends on what you are after. If youhave a few bad wires, just find the same color wire and splice them in. Most 50 year old wires in the cockpit are probably OK. But in the engine bay, they are probably old and brittle.

The wire harness seems like a big thing, but in these older cars it is really fairly manageable. The key is to copy the lengths, and stick to the color code (or make a cross reference. You may spend $500 on wire and $250 on connectors, but you will have a new harness for way less than $5K CDN. Making a new one is literally one wire at a time, so you can't get lost. Pick a wire to change, match the color, or choose a color to change it to, and note that on what will become a new custom diagram for your car (which is why I would try to stick to the same color scheme), and finish it end to end with the right connectors (or to a bundle for a specific connector to be installed later. If it is that, bundle all of the connector wires together, and then cut them to length when you install the connector), and then move on to the next wire. You do it on a flat board with the old harness laid out as a guide.

It is not complicated, but it requires discipline and organization.

You can also take the wiring diagram for your car, and r-arrange it so that the parts are in the actual phsyical relationship they are in, then start biding wires fromn the diagram into the new harness diagram. That way you have a drawing of what the harness is suposed to be.
S
 

Nicad

Well-Known Member
Site Donor
Messages
3,521
Reaction score
545
Location
Toronto
Great suggestions. Do you know a source for the OE connectors?
 

Nicad

Well-Known Member
Site Donor
Messages
3,521
Reaction score
545
Location
Toronto
I am pretty sure I will add an auxilliary fuse panel on my coupe using modern compact fuses. I have put together two motorcycles using Eastern Beaver PC-8 fuse panels and love how compact and hideable they are. (Well made too) Might try using one of these on the Coupe.
 

nosmonkey

In Rust We Trust
Site Donor
Messages
1,104
Reaction score
1,003
Location
London, UK
I used a painless wiring harness on mine. Where needed such as for the cluster wiring, I reused original connectors with new pins and terminals. Wiring harness was about $300, I'd say with new connectors, terminals and crimping tools you'd be in less than $600. It took a while to do but very happy and now have modern fuses, and properly relayed electrics
 

Ohmess

I wanna DRIVE!
Site Donor $
Messages
4,896
Reaction score
2,721
Location
Aiken, SC
Dealing with the melted wiring in my car was the first major project I had to tackle. Back story here: https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/rear-light-dilemma.42792/post-375463. I would just repair the problem areas, with the following caveats:

First off, you need to know that when a circuit is overloaded, the heat arising from the resistance overload occurs at both ends of each and every effected wire. For example, if you find a melted light socket (which I did), you will find a melted wire where it connects to the light, and another at the other end of the curcuit, in my case at the fuse block. You need to check both ends of the wire to ensure you are repairing the entire problem.

An exception to this can occur if wiring insulation is damaged because a wire becomes grounded. Then you have three locations to check - one at the unexpected ground in addition to the other two ends of the circuit.

Second, when replacing melted wires, find wiring of the same color, and unwrap the wiring harness back to an area where it runs straight and is not near a grommet or terminal. This is so the splice is not stressed once you are done. To get the replacement wire and terminal, I have another wiring harness that I canibalized, so I obtained connectors and wiring from that old harness. (I believe connectors are available. I saved this site, but have never bought anything from them: https://www.rdae.nl/4805-mm-3-2926.html.) I use crimp and solder connections with a small slit in the middle to allow solder to flow onto both wires after they are crimped into the connector (like these: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/panduit-corp/BS18-M/447759), with shrink wrap over the connection, and then retape the harness (usually over the old tape). That said, most people will argue that a properly crimped connection is sufficient.

Third, you mention missing insulation on existing wires. This is an entirely separate problem than those I encountered, and indicates wiring is not properly routed, or alternatively, not properly protected in areas where it crosses through the firewall or other bulkheads. Here you need to address not only the wires, but you also need to consider routing and whether that is done incorrectly and the need for grommets (which are probably missing). In general, wiring should have very little room to move. Secure loose wires with zip ties.
 

Nicad

Well-Known Member
Site Donor
Messages
3,521
Reaction score
545
Location
Toronto
Great tips, Thanks. I’m hoping to just use crimps for any repairs. Aircraft wiring is crimped only from what I understand as soldering imparts brittleness.
 

coupedegrace

Well-Known Member
Site Donor
Messages
689
Reaction score
654
Location
Portland, Oregon
Great tips, Thanks. I’m hoping to just use crimps for any repairs. Aircraft wiring is crimped only from what I understand as soldering imparts brittleness.
I first read that last sentence as soldering imparts "bitterness" instead of "brittleness." I'm sure when I do it that it imparts both bitterness and brittleness.

You might be interested in this project based on what you said about Eastern Beaver fuse panels above.

 

ScottAndrews

Well-Known Member
Messages
307
Reaction score
46
Location
Petaluma, CA
I first read that last sentence as soldering imparts "bitterness" instead of "brittleness." I'm sure when I do it that it imparts both bitterness and brittleness.

You might be interested in this project based on what you said about Eastern Beaver fuse panels above.

I think the "bitterness" comes after the "brittleness" !!;)
 

ScottAndrews

Well-Known Member
Messages
307
Reaction score
46
Location
Petaluma, CA
I used a painless wiring harness on mine. Where needed such as for the cluster wiring, I reused original connectors with new pins and terminals. Wiring harness was about $300, I'd say with new connectors, terminals and crimping tools you'd be in less than $600. It took a while to do but very happy and now have modern fuses, and properly relayed electrics
Does Painless make a harness for the E9? I used a Painless harness on tmy Bronco. Great product!
 

oldcoupe

Well-Known Member
Messages
150
Reaction score
12
I pulled the entire wiring from an E3 - colours and gauges are usually the same, and a good source of connector plugs. Might be a good source of materials if you're repairing an old or considering building a new E9 harness....
 

eriknetherlands

Moderator
Site Donor
Messages
2,775
Reaction score
2,008
Location
Netherlands, Eindhoven area
My harness was actually quite pliable still, so no isolation coming loose. I decided to keep it, and replace only tiny sections where a PO welded close to the harness, and had a some weld spatter that melted through the isolation and stuck to the wire.

I removed the old and dirty tape that held the harness togethe and rewrapped with Coroplast, and TESA high temp for the engine compartment.

I did buy from RDAE.nl as Ohmess suggested, (I'm in the same country); they are quick and they supplied quite OK parts.
 
Last edited:

jmackro

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,463
Reaction score
728
Location
San Juan Capistrano, Ca.
Does Painless make a harness for the E9?
Ha ha. Looking at their website, all their car-specific harnesses are for 'mericun cars. Click on "MAKE" on this site and you'll see what I mean: https://www.painlessperformance.com...mOXy2pNdyHAGR2r75FpeeELmsoM3cR90aAtP0EALw_wcB

I guess the universal harness would be Painless' solution for an e9, though I would think that once you had adapted it, it would have been simpler/cheaper to fabricate a harness from scratch (though I see that user "nosmonkey" reports using the universal harness in post #7, so I should defer to him).
 
Last edited:

Bert Poliakoff

Well-Known Member
Site Donor
Messages
1,580
Reaction score
355
Location
Scottsdale, AZ
There are people you can find with google, that specialize in wire harness restoration. IIRC they start around $500 or that is what I was told by the person at the one shop I spoke with.
 

Bert Poliakoff

Well-Known Member
Site Donor
Messages
1,580
Reaction score
355
Location
Scottsdale, AZ
Look at wiringharnessrestoration.com.

Wiring Harness Restoration sent me this. "All harnesses are different, with different oxidation levels. We need to test and inspect it to get some idea of time and cost. The most common harness that we restore is an automotive fuel-injected engine harness. Basic and full restorations can start as low as $200 and go to $1500, depending on the harness condition."
 
Last edited:

jmackro

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,463
Reaction score
728
Location
San Juan Capistrano, Ca.
US based company that does foreign cars:


They do list harnesses for e9's. Here's what I found on the site referenced by craterface:

1971 BMW [2800CS]
1. Engine and Headlight Harness 1627.00
2. Ignition Switch Harness 46.00
3. Dash, Body and Taillights Harness 2617.00

It wasn't clear to me if you would need all three of these, for a total cost of $4,290, to replace ALL the wiring in an e9, or if the Dash, Body and Taillights harness is all-inclusive. I'd guess the former.
 
Top