if you don’t hear injectors clicking on one bank and you do on the other bank and you have installed new trigger points- you would concentrate on electrical.
were plugs wet or dry?
were plugs wet or dry?
Non Running Engine Good Compression and Ignition Spark Present Noid Light Test no Signal
- Thread starter neon
- Start date
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Additional acceleration fuel pulses generation by the TPS can be checked as follows: Ignition ON, motor NOT running. Slowly by hand open the throttle valve. During opening you should hear the injectors open shortly about 20 times (sounds like a kind of “Bbbrrrrrppppp”.....). When closing the throttle valve you should NOT hear the injectors work !”
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Additional acceleration fuel pulses generation by the TPS can be checked as follows: Ignition ON, motor NOT running. Slowly by hand open the throttle valve. During opening you should hear the injectors open shortly about 20 times (sounds like a kind of “Bbbrrrrrppppp”.....). When closing the throttle valve you should NOT hear the injectors work !”
sf - plugs were dry. Yes thanks on the TPS/injector firing test, I have checked this many times, there is a muted clicking, my screwdriver handle to ear test on each individual injector tends to make me that not all are firing as you open throttle. But definitely not a "Bbrrrpp' more of a clicking. You mentioned banks of injectors. I cannot find anywhere on jetronic.org or otherswise how the ECU fires the injectors (what sequence) just that there are 2 driver circuits in the ECU, implying that the ECU fires the injectors in 2 banks of 3 each. Do you know which injectors are fired together ( ie is it 1,3,5 followed by 2, 4 ,6, prob different given cyl firing order)
If it hasn't been determined yet if it is a fuel problem or a spark problem, can you disconnect the air inlet at the throttle plate and squirt a little starting fluid in (open throttle) then try to start it? If it starts and runs for a few seconds it is a fuel problem. If it won't even pop it's a spark problem.
Wiring on this djet system is frustrating.
Did you look at the schematic and key in the tech section?
Never mind - they appear to gone.
Did you look at the schematic and key in the tech section?
Never mind - they appear to gone.
It's 1,3,5 and 2,4,6
Its in our new Forum here: https://e9coupe.com/forum/pages/published-sources/
Bill - Halleluiah !!! And my problem seems to have yielded to replacing trigger points and MPS both !!
We are both in the clear and happy motoring awaits in 2023, most excellent
Stay in touch
Dana and Astrid
We are both in the clear and happy motoring awaits in 2023, most excellent
Stay in touch
Dana and Astrid
Is it true that when engine braking the injectors are fully closed? Not even idle type of fuel delivery?
not true
So Don’s MPS worked? But yours doesn’t?
OH man, if one is still using points, that should be one of the first things to check.
Am happy w/my Pertronix (so far).
Am happy w/my Pertronix (so far).
Bill - Sfdon saved the day and I am sure many hours of testing what I believe are essentiall OK wires, grounds, even injectors etc etc. When I substituted Don's ECU, there was no joy. I moved on to the trigger contacts and mine were quite worn so I substituted Don's. Meanwhile I put my ECU in so that only one variable was changing. At that point, only a 5 second start. I then substitutrf Don's MPS and voila, perfect start and running immediately. Today I changed my points, reset the dwell, car ran real nice. I attempted a timing check but could not find the flywheel marks through the clutch housing window, so for now I had to abandon that. I did not try putting my worn trigger points back with Don's MPS in service, but what I know for sure is that my MPS is bad ( despite testing OK !!) and the trigger contacts are very worn.
Thus game plan is rebuild and calibrate MPS and new or refurbished trigger points. Some $ to spend but all good, and a feeling of some degree of accomplishment, but I owe it all to Don, you, and our other contributors. Will update with developments, projects, and surely many questions.
Dana and Astrid in Hartford, CT
Wow, that was the first good news I heard all day.
kudos to our e9 forum member who first suggested the “e9 lending library”
He knows about this.
We all thank him.
He knows about this.
We all thank him.
When I replaced the points in my stock 2800CS engine with a Pertronix, the car went from barely running with a sputtering idle that would die as soon as the throttle was touched to running well enough to drive on the street and idle well. So, bad points. But even as it ran successfully, there was an occasional backfire thorough the front carb. It didn't seem to matter what the engine speed or load was. It would happen once every few minutes or so. I tried to set the timing with a timing light, but even after painting white the spot on the flywheel that you should be able to see in the window, the spot would only appear randomly at lengthy intervals. Clearly the timing is varying wildly, even with the Pertronix installed.
My gut feeling is there's something wrong with the guts of the distributor and after some searching, I was able to find a rebuilt one on ebay.
But I can't say that's the ultimate solution to my problem as I haven't installed it to see if that will resolve the issue as the successful startup was on the cusp of moving from Hawaii to Texas and then on to Florida and I haven't had the free time to get back to fixing the rust on the car and getting the mechanicals sorted. But soon, I hope.
Apparently not all parts are available for our distributors, and I've read of some self destructing because of age, so I was happy to find a rebuilt one.
I've read the 123 distributor works well and it's a new product with support, so there's that option if your distributor is actually not keeping consistent timing and you can't find service for your stock one.
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There are 2 timing marks on the flywheel unless you have the California timing wheel from the late 70’s and then there are 3.
We paint all lines and ball bearings to make timing easier.
The math is simple- 360 divided by 116 gives degrees per tooth. (About 3 degrees per tooth)
You set your timing 7 teeth from TDC
We paint all lines and ball bearings to make timing easier.
The math is simple- 360 divided by 116 gives degrees per tooth. (About 3 degrees per tooth)
You set your timing 7 teeth from TDC
Bill - yes. Despite good ohm readings across both sets of pins and a solid vacuum test - held 15 psi vacuum for 5 + min. Go figure !!
Dana
The secret decoder ring