Drive shaft for 265 conversion

billpatterson

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Hi there
I have pulled the automatic transmission from my '73 Bavaria resto. I am going to install a G265 transmission in its place. I have measured a few things,

The length of auto trans is 590 mm
The length of G265 is 552 mm
(these measurements are from front face of bell housing to the rear face of output flange; I secured a straight edge across face of the bell housing and a straight edge across the rear face of the output flange and measured between)

Since the auto box is 38 mm longer than the G265 I am planning to have the front '1/2' of the driveshaft that came off the Bavaria lengthened (and install a fresh BMW support bearing too).

When the drive shaft is in being lengthened and rebalanced, I will have the driveline shop repair the universal joints on both halves.

Does this sound reasonable?

I plan to use a BMW Guibo that measures 30 mm thick, ~130 mm diameter, new BMW bolts/lock nuts. I have a few old ones around (out of 2002 5 spd conversions) and all of these have the same dimensions as the Guibo that was used in this automatic Bavaria. I actually can't remember ever using a 'donut' style Guibo!

Is there a Guibo that is a better choice than others, for this conversion? Part# please?

Their differences must be internal cuz several have the same physical dimensions o_O

Regards and thx for your advice!
-Bill
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Gransin

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Mike Goble

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I use the driveshaft out of a mid-80's 535i. Just picked up a spare today.

Here's some links:

 

billpatterson

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I use the driveshaft out of a mid-80's 535i. Just picked up a spare today.

Here's some links:


Hi Mike
Thx. Same length...just a modified bracket for centre bearing? Nice work around. Please check the install of those guibo bolts and nuts, for safety sake. The arrows on the guibo point to a flange and nut so the bolts/nuts alternate.

Regards
Bill

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dp

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Flat flex disc (say that 5 times fast) always appears with an AT. when switching to a 5-speed I prefer to use the "donut" (guibo), new hardware (of course though when stingy just new pinch nutz) with the nuts against the flanges and the bolt heads against the guido metal inserts. Torque the nut ONLY, do NOT spin the bolt. Be sure arrows point to flanges. Your pic looks good.

The advantage here is by switching to the fatter donut guibo the slip joint in the driveshaft assembly can be used to take up the remaining assembly slack. Where the pilot bushing in the front of the shaft is in good shape and cleaned and lubed and everything is torqued properly befORE removing the metal band (DO use a new guibo always) I have NEVER had driveshaft problems. Truth is the only time I have had driveshaft/guibo problems were on cars when I first got them, before I got to attend to this area myself.

I KNOW folks can be adamant about "proper driveshaft length" including the splined yoke end being bottomed out in the corresponding shaft. If you've removed many driveshafts you may have noticed the variability in length of the exposed splines. If you've taken a lot of driveshafts apart you may have even noticed some variation in the total length OF the splined ended yoke knuckle. If your u-joints need servicing just go ahead and cut/lengthen/whatever the driveshaft you are working with, I'm just relating what has worked for me, and I drive my cars a lot, so I figured worth sharing.

y.m.m.v.

--dp
 
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billpatterson

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Flat flex disc (say that 5 times fast) always appears with an AT. when switching to a 5-speed I prefer to use the "donut" (guibo), new hardware (of course though when stingy just new pinch nutz) with the nuts against the flanges and the bolt heads against the guido metal inserts. Torque the nut ONLY, do NOT spin the bolt. Be sure arrows point to flanges. Your pic looks good.

The advantage here is by switching to the fatter donut guibo the slip joint in the driveshaft assembly can be used to take up the remaining assembly slack. Where the pilot bushing in the front of the shaft is in good shape and cleaned and lubed and everything is torqued properly befORE removing the metal band (DO use a new guibo always) I have NEVER had driveshaft problems. Truth is the only time I have had driveshaft/guibo problems were on cars when I first got them, before I got to attend to this area myself.

I KNOW folks can be adamant about "proper driveshaft length" including the splined yoke end being bottomed out in the corresponding shaft. If you've removed many driveshafts you may have noticed the variability in length of the exposed splines. If you've taken a lot of driveshafts apart you may have even noticed some variation in the total length OF the splined ended yoke knuckle. If your u-joints need servicing just go ahead and cut/lengthen/whatever the driveshaft you are working with, I'm just relating what has worked for me, and I drive my cars a lot, so I figured worth sharing.

y.m.m.v.

--dp

Hi dp
MMmmmmm...are you saying with the added thickness of the 'donut' guibo and the available slip in the slip joint, there is no need to lengthen the drive shaft by 38 mm (1.5")? Sorry to ask the question; maybe its was too good of news not to soak in the first time :)

I need to research the thickness of the 'donut' guibo and whether it accommodates 12mm bolts. And do some simple math...

Cheers,
Bill
 

HB Chris

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Early 2500/2800 use M10 bolts, all later e3 use M12 bolts. Early Giubo is impossible to find, only Carl has them. Yours is M12x65. And auto E3 uses a 12mm spacer bushing to make up for thinner giubo.
 
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billpatterson

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Hi dp
MMmmmmm...are you saying with the added thickness of the 'donut' guibo and the available slip in the slip joint, there is no need to lengthen the drive shaft by 38 mm (1.5")? Sorry to ask the question; maybe its was too good of news not to soak in the first time :)

I need to research the thickness of the 'donut' guibo and whether it accommodates 12mm bolts. And do some simple math...

Cheers,
Bill

Pondering this...it also depends on enough movement in the support bearing mounts.

I'm still leaning towards my above plan. Lengthen driveshaft (1.5"), new M5 guibo (26117511454), M12x1.5x65mm bolts/lock nuts (part # ?) and support bearing (26111206502).

Bill
 
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dp

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Pondering this...it also depends on enough movement in the support bearing mounts.

I'm still leaning towards my above plan. Lengthen driveshaft (1.5"), new M5 guibo (26117511454), M12x1.5x65mm bolts/lock nuts (part # ?) and support bearing (26111206502).

Bill
get the guibo first and factor its thickness in your calc

I forgot to mention be sure the driveshaft builder installs the actual pilot bearing, spring, felt sealing washer, and cap on the end of your driveshaft. Many of them use something that is essentially a thin rubber-coated coil spring that gets rolled up and stuffed in the end of the drieshaft. Doesn't last long and the imbalance will trash even that beeefy and pricey M5 flex joint!
 

TedS

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Pondering this...it also depends on enough movement in the support bearing mounts.

I'm still leaning towards my above plan. Lengthen driveshaft (1.5"), new M5 guibo (26117511454), M12x1.5x65mm bolts/lock nuts (part # ?) and support bearing (26111206502).

Bill
Bill- I might be wrong (easily confused) but I think you're quoting the part number I shared which is for a standard 5 series flex disk. It cross references to another one that ends in 27-- 26111229727 but is actually not the M5 one. As posted above by Gransin, the M5 flex disk is part# 26112226527.

My question is, when lengthening the driveshaft for a transmission swap should one take the measurement using the big donut giubo which is about 46mm or use the thinner 5 series one which is about 30mm? I'm leaning towards using the thinner one because that's all I'll ever use but the finality and expense of custom driveshafts are making me pause.
 

Mike Goble

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There's enough flexibility in the driveshaft splined slip joint to make up for the few mm difference in the giubo width. You need to make sure that the nose of the d/s isn't the limiting factor on your giubo thickness. You can see in the pic how the later d/s has a shorter nose.
K3WcHZr.jpg
 

billpatterson

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Bill- I might be wrong (easily confused) but I think you're quoting the part number I shared which is for a standard 5 series flex disk. It cross references to another one that ends in 27-- 26111229727 but is actually not the M5 one. As posted above by Gransin, the M5 flex disk is part# 26112226527.

My question is, when lengthening the driveshaft for a transmission swap should one take the measurement using the big donut giubo which is about 46mm or use the thinner 5 series one which is about 30mm? I'm leaning towards using the thinner one because that's all I'll ever use but the finality and expense of custom driveshafts are making me pause.


Thank you for the correction!

Bill
 
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