'75 Taiga 3.0 in CT

kwyjibo

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OK, this one hurts to write because there is no way I can see for me to get this one into my garage...

not mine, no affiliation. It is just the car I was looking for, found a few years too late.
1975 Euro 3.0CS Taiga with tan velour interior asking $39k.

Note: I have not personally seen this car. From the photos, the sheetmetal looks good and original, but haven't received any photos from the underside or with the trim removed. Like I said earlier, this car has the color, stance and just enough sporty -Lness to be what I had in mind years ago when I started searching. If someone from this board buys this, you owe me a beer to help me forget this car came up for sale (and even though its a few hours away in CT, I may still have to go take a look).
Here is the link to the seller, Steven, and I see that he has now uploaded the complete set of photos. http://classiccargallery.com/details.php?id=516&g=1 The seller was helpful but not the most knowledgeable of coupes. And, for the record, the VIN is 4300610
 

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74EuroE9

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Nice car...almost.

Tiaga is growing on me...the color is reminiscent of the 'hot wheels' miniatures. Love the velour.

Suggestions:
  • Take off the poorly sculpted plastic cow catcher / rock-chip and abrasion collector.
  • Trash the 'look at me...I'm stuck in the 80s' rear spoiler (spoiler is the right name, as it truly spoils the line of the car).
  • Remove the 'Renolds Wrap' shiny foil around the wheel arches. Re-purpose in kitchen.
The E9 has an economy of line, carefully conceived and artfully executed. Impossible to improve upon. No need for anyone else to come along and try to play car designer and 'improve' on one of the world's best designed objects. Be subtractive and simplify. Do less.
 

rb1971

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If I didn't already have one, I would make this one mine. Love the color, and always liked the cars that have the manual front windows.

I would probably also delete the spoiler, and would also fix the speaker placement unless the sound they produce is surprisingly good.
 

E911

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keep it the way it is...

Taiga cars can handle the "bling" and it's a Euro car- great velour seats and roll up windows! I wouldn't change a thing.
 

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Stevehose

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If you drive up to that at the local morning car meet you're sure to make them spill their coffee and donuts. Love those exotic 70's colors.
 

bert35csi

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Tiaga is growing on me...the color is reminiscent of the 'hot wheels' miniatures. Love the velour.

Suggestions:
  • Take off the poorly sculpted plastic cow catcher / rock-chip and abrasion collector.
  • Trash the 'look at me...I'm stuck in the 80s' rear spoiler (spoiler is the right name, as it truly spoils the line of the car).
  • Remove the 'Renolds Wrap' shiny foil around the wheel arches. Re-purpose in kitchen.
The E9 has an economy of line, carefully conceived and artfully executed. Impossible to improve upon. No need for anyone else to come along and try to play car designer and 'improve' on one of the world's best designed objects. Be subtractive and simplify. Do less.

All original and expensive CSL aerodynamic parts made and issued by BMW. Personally, don't mind that look at all, with the exception of the blacked out kidney and headlight grills.
 

Stan

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Granted the rear spoiler is not everyone's taste. In fact I prefer the clean lines without it.
But this car is very very nice looking and if it runs as well as it looks, it would be worth the asking price. I agree with Bert, go back to the aluminum trim on the front grills and the outer part of the kidney grill and I would stop there. If only I could convince my wife that The Great White needs a friend!

Say, are those black acorn nuts on the valve cover?!?
 
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JFENG

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Picking Nits?

Euro car - no sunroof, right?

Why is there an driver front window electric switch when the passenger front window is manual (see the pic showing the center console)?

Trunk gasket looks odd where it is getting pinched by the trunk lid hinges

Overall repaint looks pretty good

Screwed in kick panel trim not very pretty

where's the Karman tag in the door jamb?

Door speaker location is terrible for making good audio.

Looks like a nice car. I like the color a lot. Classic 70's scheme. Gotta sport big side burns and wear multi-colored bell bottoms when you drive this car.
 

ny30cs

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Euro 3.0

I saw the car the day it was brought in. First saw it on 95 being driven there and I nearly broke my neck. It was heading north on 95 and I was heading south. I haven't crawled under it and would be glad to have a look for anyone here. What I did see was an incredibly straight car that looked VERY tidy. I understand it runs well but did not drive it myself. There was nothing on the car that screamed out at me such as a bad repair or rust lurking underneath. I did have to remember to close my mouth and wipe the drool. It's a very pretty car.
I know the guys there and they are straight shooters......PM me if anyone wants me to have a very close look......
 

JFENG

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I saw this car today

Very nice dealer (Steve).
Body
Trim off repaint to very nice driver level. I could see areas where the prep could've been better (surface roughness under the color coat), but overall very well done. Thckness meter didn't identify any bondo work at all. Just the factory areas which have some lead filler on them.

No signs of obvious signs accident damage in the trunk or engine bay


Rust: front fenders. The OEM padding on the front fenders was cracked and it was "hollows" underneath in the area between the shock and the firewall. We didnt' want to pry up the cracked padding to see what was underneath. The "pockets" on the inner fenders had a good 1"-2" of dirt in them (hardpacked, probably never been cleaned out since the car was new). I'd guess there might be a bit of rust under the dirt. The hidden "gutters" under neath the front fenders was also full of dirt and gravel. It's my experience that if you take these fenders off you'll find rust. But, cars like this should have their fenders pulled, the entire area (including lower a-pillars) taken to bare metal and then properly painted so they'll never rust again.

I really didn't like the black sealant that had be slathered in the cowl area (area where the wiper motor sits). Makes you wonder what's under it.

No sign of rust above both glove boxes.

Both front doors had rust in the front bottom corners. Both floor plug areas were heavily gooped up with some sort of shiny back stuff. Laid on really thick. I'd guess the floor plug openings were slightly rusty and the PO sealed them up.

I didn't see any other signs of rust on the car.

Front valence (behind the air dam) is a bit beaten up from kissing parking blocks.

Engine bay was overall very clean. Obvious line where they stopped the new paint (about 1" down on the sides of the inner fenders. Radiator was damaged as if it had been pushed into the fan, but the rest of the front end looked fine.

There was a fair bit of incorrect hardware under the bonnet.

Trunk was nice. Almost no tools. Tool box cracked in the usual place. Incorrect trunk gasket, but it seems to work. Spare is a stock turbine FRP wheel.

Chrome: Bumpers were okay. Micropitted and not very shiny, but straight and all there. Chrome was overall good, but typical crazing on rear quarter window sills.

Engine: started and ran fine. We didn't drive it (brake problems). Stumbled when you blipped the throttles. Probably just needs a carb rebuild. Looked by and large all original.

Transmission: didn't drive it, but throw out bearing was quiet. Shift linkage was quite loose/sloppy. For this and other reasons I don't think the 9k Odo reading is correct. THere was also plenty of wear and grime on the undercarriage. It could be a 50kmile car, but not 9k miles.

Interior: it's an old tan velour which has faded and looks old and ugly. It would be much nicer in a new Saddle leather. Otherwise interior in good condition. Rear windows don't work at all. Speakers look horrible. Best to source some good used tan door trim and return it to stock.


Overall I thought this was a wonderful car. To be all done, it needs
(1) door rust fixed $1500?
(2) the front fender areas should completely cleaned out and rust proofed. Cost? $8k?
(3) The engine seemed fine but I think it likely needs a carb rebuild and some minor fettling. $1000?
(4) Needs new shifter bushings (cheap plus an hour of labor)
(5) I'll bet the brake MC is on it's last legs (too little driving over the last 25 years). Figure $300 for the MC an $250 to flush all hydraulic lines and bleed
(6) rear window motors and wiring should be replaced ($100 parts, $200 labor)
(7) I would redo the seats and door cards ($4k)
(8) New radiator ($500)
(9) Front windshield is delaminating and should be replaced $500
(10) suspension felt original (e.g. pretty soft). A set of sport springs/bars and some Koni's would do wonders ($2000)

So, for between $10k and $18k of work/parts will clean this car up and turn it into a super nice, super clean driver. I didn't budget anything to upgrading the powertrain from the 4spd and 3.0 liter.

If you want a super nice driver for $50k to $60k, this is a perfect car to start with.
 

Nicad

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I'd have to say you are paying a big premium for the Taiga at that price with the detailed description Bfeng has provided.
 

E911

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I agree- big premium, you'd be buying well ahead of the market at the current pricing. This would have been a great find one transaction ago.
 

kwyjibo

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Fstede1, as the guy who started this thread, I really want to like this coupe... but I've never seen it in person. bfeng has and if his detailed report is accurate (and there is no reason to think that it isn't), then I agree with what has already been said: big premium for the color.
If you are a big enough fan of Taiga to proceed, why not put some money down for them to hold it long enough for a PPI? Mario (VSR) is a couple of hours away or there are some other reputable shops in CT (sorry, can't think of their names right now). You don't want to be stuck with an impulse money pit. I'm sure if we started a thread on emotional purchases that bombed, we'd get many pages in no time.
 

JFENG

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iit's a great car ..

Don't get me wrong. this is no $20k DD. It's a really nice car. But, it's not finished & ready to go in the same way as Stan's or HBChris.

Seller is 100% honest in saying this car is not restored. That's good because this car has not been botched like 9/10 restored E9's I've seen. I belive it is a numbers matching car too. But, it's also not going to drive like a new E9, much less an upgraded one.

Perfect for the owner who just wants to cruise around and do well at the local car show. Needs a substantial refresh to be an ultimate driving machine. Even it you never drove in the wet & kept it in a dehumidified garage, you'd want to replace the hydraulics, install new shocks & CN springs, rebuild the fuel system, fix the defunct rear windows, fix the visible door rust, and clean out the fender areas. That's got to be close to $8k in parts & labor. As a non-CSL car, I'd also want AC & a leather interior.

I'd have bought it @ $30k, but I believe it sold @ $36k yesterday.
 
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