CV joints

David

David

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pmansson said:
What grease should they be filled with?
I wasn´t aware of the inside vs outside on these shafts and the BMW colour codes (white and yellow). I guess I need to read more in the Blue Books.
Click to expand...

Im assuming you mean what is the correct grease for the CV joint. When you buy new boots, it should come with the correct molybdenum grease.

As for inner vs outer CV joints, I think the color marking from DQ is just his very precise way of working. When I purchased new CV joints from LJI, there was no mention of a difference between inner and outer.
 
deQuincey

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pmansson said:
Very, very impressive work! Hats off to that.
On one of my cars I have, have had, slight imbalance at around 80km/h. I have changed one of the drive shafts and have now sourced another NOS. A bit too early to determine if the imbalance lies in the faulty shafts or not. Interesting part about the 18 deg and consequences on the cups if the shafts are let to free fall when working on the springs and dampers. I think we worked a bit on one, on one of my many coupes where we saw the uneven circular edge. It wasn´t as badly damaged as yours though.
On one car I had grease sprayed on the underside of the car, due to a punctured rubber sleeve.
What grease should they be filled with?
I wasn´t aware of the inside vs outside on these shafts and the BMW colour codes (white and yellow). I guess I need to read more in the Blue Books.
Click to expand...

thanks

i used semisynthetic moly grease, i discarded the grease that came with the boot/bellows kits, i opened them and i feel that it was not the right viscosity, you do not know what they pack in that little bags
then i bought a local heavy duty semisynth moly grease that is specifically formulated for this purpose,
i am very pleased with the result
i will be happy to assist if you need a source
regards
 
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The only thing you didnt need was the sealant on the end plates.
If they are as good as new, then they Will seal by themeselves.

When new, there was no sealant either.
 
David

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I was never clear on the significance of the groove around the circumference of the CV joint. Of the four CV joints on my car, the groove was not consistently oriented toward the inner or outer direction.

IMG_2404.jpg
 
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A

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Overhauling CV boots

Hi,
Question du jour for the coupsters:
I'm overhauling the 2 axles with about to be cracked boots, and probably screwed up..
long story short, I lost my notes that precised the position of the axle components before disassembly.
Of course I repainted the cv joint casing so I no longer now which side they are mounting.
I have noticed some P/Ns on the casing; from memory it is 945-78 & 948-78.
Is there any particular way those P/Ns are going?
945-78 inner / 948-78 outer - or vice versa?
Anybody which marked CV joint & confirming P/N would be a great help.
I could take a pics tomorrow of the location of the P/Ns.
Thanks,

Stephane
 
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Gary Knox

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I have not done this job on an e9, but have done it and seen it done several times with the equivalent half shafts on a Porsche 928 Transaxle car (the CV joints look identical).

One of the tricks that the 928 guys always did after completing the cleaning and re-greasing/rebuilding was to swap sides with the shafts when re-installing (they were identical). This procedure essentially provides new wear surfaces for the contact of the CV balls when driving. The wear surfaces that are now under pressure when going forward were previously only under pressure when the car was in reverse. Takes away about 79+K miles of wear on a CV joint that has been used for 80K miles.

Might be worth thinking about on the e9's as well. I know I will attempt it when mine need rebuilding next.
 
Gazz

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I'm not clear on how this is done. Is the diff dropped to make the 18 degrees or are the wheels dropped? It seems that the wheels are dropped. And how are the wheels dropped? If the wheels are dropped then what is the significance of the jack under the diff as it will not move anyway if bolted in place?
I'm under my car now and it is a frustrating exercise for someone who doesn't know what they are doing. The blue book is a great help - "Remove final drive shaft" !!!

BTW I am installing not removing, from a disassembled car with subframe, wheels and diff in place.
 
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Philippe db

Philippe db

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Great Job DQ but like Steve wrote also way out of my league.

If I ever need it done I'll travel to Spain.:)
 
inovermyhead

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So having just refurbished mine and reinstalled, luckily I had the use of a hoist, are we to assume that the car should not be allowed to ' dangle ' its wheels ie on a hoist that lifts from the jacking point rather than a drive on platform type hoist ?

Cheers. John
 
Ohmess

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Gazz said:
I'm not clear on how this is done. Is the diff dropped to make the 18 degrees or are the wheels dropped? It seems that the wheels are dropped. And how are the wheels dropped? If the wheels are dropped then what is the significance of the jack under the diff as it will not move anyway if bolted in place?
I'm under my car now and it is a frustrating exercise for someone who doesn't know what they are doing. The blue book is a great help - "Remove final drive shaft" !!!

BTW I am installing not removing, from a disassembled car with subframe, wheels and diff in place.
Click to expand...

Gazz -- the drop occurs because when you lift on the differential, the suspension unloads and the springs extend to their full length. Normally they are compressed by the car's weight. The significance of the jack under the dif is most of us use the dif as the main rear jacking point on our cars. I presume you are installing the driveshaft? If so, insert the driveshaft into the subframe, aligning the rear mounting points with the dif. Then, move the other end of the driveshaft up towards the transmission while keeping the rear end in the subframe. As you get close, allow the driveshaft to flex downward in the center a little and move the end until you can align the one of the bolts through the guibo. At this point, I put a jack under the driveshaft (which I had prepositioned), and move to the rear, installing all four of the flat spotted bolts and washers finger tight. Then move back to the front and rotate the driveshaft until you can align the other two bolts. This sometimes takes a few rotations.
 
Gazz

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Ohmess said:
Gazz -- the drop occurs because when you lift on the differential, etc. QUOTE]

Thanks for this information. I'm installing the half shafts, the drive shafts that run from the rear wheels to the diff. At the moment I have the car on blocks with the wheels hanging freely. They have not dropped anywhere near far enough to make the required 18 degrees. I have removed the anti sway bar connection but the rest of the suspension is in place. This car does have the Carl Nelson kit fitted however. What am I doing wrong.
Click to expand...
 
Gazz

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Thanks for this information. I'm installing the half shafts, the drive shafts that run from the rear wheels to the diff. At the moment I have the car on blocks with the wheels hanging freely. They have not dropped anywhere near far enough to make the required 18 degrees. I have removed the anti sway bar connection but the rest of the suspension is in place. This car does have the Carl Nelson kit fitted however. What am I doing wrong.
 
inovermyhead

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Gazz, sounds like your on the right track, I installed my drive shafts with the wheels hanging and seem to have had no problem, if fact after having them rebuilt and the prop rebalance done, the vibration at any speed has disappeared completely. I took the trouble with the six Allen key bolts each end to tighten them slowly and evenly by rotations of the wheel, I started at the wheel ends then the diff end, no torque wrench available so I just did them 'kin tight.

The first gear thump has not disappeared though, still working through that !!!

Cheers. John
 
deQuincey

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inovermyhead said:
Gazz, sounds like your on the right track, I installed my drive shafts with the wheels hanging and seem to have had no problem, if fact after having them rebuilt and the prop rebalance done, the vibration at any speed has disappeared completely. I took the trouble with the six Allen key bolts each end to tighten them slowly and evenly by rotations of the wheel, I started at the wheel ends then the diff end, no torque wrench available so I just did them 'kin tight.

The first gear thump has not disappeared though, still working through that !!!

Cheers. John
Click to expand...


"o torque wrench available so I just did them 'kin tight."
found imposible to place a torque wrench there with the space available
 
Gary Knox

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Very thorough and complete write up of this messy job. I've done it few times on my porsche 928's, and now once on the e9. Essentially identical procedures.

One 'tip' from the 928 side is to install the refurbished axles on the opposite side from where they were removed (i.e axle shaft and joints that were on the right side re-installed on the left side). That way, the driving force on the balls and cage are more like 'new', as the forces in reverse gear (minimal) are now on the forward driving parts of the cage. The previous driving contact with the cage is now in the reverse gear.

Just a thought to add to our accumulated info on this subject.

PS: OOOPS - looks like this is nearly a duplicate of my previous post. Sorry.

Gary
 
Ohmess

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Gazz said:
Thanks for this information. I'm installing the half shafts, the drive shafts that run from the rear wheels to the diff. At the moment I have the car on blocks with the wheels hanging freely. They have not dropped anywhere near far enough to make the required 18 degrees. I have removed the anti sway bar connection but the rest of the suspension is in place. This car does have the Carl Nelson kit fitted however. What am I doing wrong.
Click to expand...

Sorry, I misunderstood your post.

Support the hub, then go up into the trunk and remove the bolts holding the shock in place. This will allow you to get the drop you need. Then, before you try to reinstall the shock, you need to slowly compress the shock, tied it with some twine, then raise the hub (checking that the spring remains correctly oriented on its perch), aim the shock, cut the twine and guide the end into the hole as it extends.
 
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