I don't see that rubber on the car. Good catch. Is it important? Hopefully it is sitting on a table somewhere.
The end is near....SCOTTeVEST's Baby
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So, went to have the car towed for the alignment today. It looks freaking awesome, subject to some minor things that really bug me, e.g. belt trim is not lining up perfectly (looks like a big gap on passenger side), 3.0cs lettering is slanted (just sloppy), windows are slow (even though just got the fast motor installed) and won't go up all the way oddly, brakes don't work. I suspect these things can all be worked out in time.
I'm hoping Benny can take care of all minor things and paint the sun roof so I can finally enjoy the car. So excited.
Looks freaking awesome!
Videos and select images from my Facebook post: https://www.facebook.com/SCOTTeVESTceo/posts/10211518182137062
Hi-res Youtube video here:
Just think how much more time you will all have once I stop posting 15 min videos daily.
Do you like the Euro license plate MY BABY on front?
Almost done.
I'm hoping Benny can take care of all minor things and paint the sun roof so I can finally enjoy the car. So excited.
Looks freaking awesome!
Videos and select images from my Facebook post: https://www.facebook.com/SCOTTeVESTceo/posts/10211518182137062
Hi-res Youtube video here:
Just think how much more time you will all have once I stop posting 15 min videos daily.
Do you like the Euro license plate MY BABY on front?
Almost done.
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Hi Scott
Very impressive video (as always) with the car looking a million dollars. the only thing missing was the SRV soundtrack from the previous video!
I think the rubber strip you are looking for is -
https://www.wallothnesch.com/en/catalogsearch/result/?order=name&dir=asc&q=54129734126
The strip is a small, narrow 'U-channel' measuring about 5mm or 2/10". I'd guess you might be able to push this onto the exterior chrome window frames without removing them - I hope so!
Good luck.
Marco
Very impressive video (as always) with the car looking a million dollars. the only thing missing was the SRV soundtrack from the previous video!
I think the rubber strip you are looking for is -
https://www.wallothnesch.com/en/catalogsearch/result/?order=name&dir=asc&q=54129734126
The strip is a small, narrow 'U-channel' measuring about 5mm or 2/10". I'd guess you might be able to push this onto the exterior chrome window frames without removing them - I hope so!
Good luck.
Marco
Looked at the pics again this morning. The car does look fantastic - your anticipation to drive it must be building exponentially.
One detail though that was discussed a while back in the thread is the ride height. With the new CN springs, to my eye the rear is still riding a bit higher than it should (at least relative to the front height which looks perfect). Should this settle further? (IE, how long does it take for new coils to break in?)
I am in an odd place with my car. I plan on ordering CN "lowering" springs to raise my car. A PO cut coils off the rear and it sits too low (looks pretty cool, though). But going too far/high is a concern. Ride height is so critical, imho.
Looking forward to the inaugural drive video, with the pooches' heads out the window drooling on the shiny paint.
One detail though that was discussed a while back in the thread is the ride height. With the new CN springs, to my eye the rear is still riding a bit higher than it should (at least relative to the front height which looks perfect). Should this settle further? (IE, how long does it take for new coils to break in?)
I am in an odd place with my car. I plan on ordering CN "lowering" springs to raise my car. A PO cut coils off the rear and it sits too low (looks pretty cool, though). But going too far/high is a concern. Ride height is so critical, imho.
Looking forward to the inaugural drive video, with the pooches' heads out the window drooling on the shiny paint.
Agreed that the back is still riding a little high. That is the point of bringing it to Les Schwab for the alignment but I will specifically mention that to them. Not much gas in the tankLooked at the pics again this morning. The car does look fantastic - your anticipation to drive it must be building exponentially.
One detail though that was discussed a while back in the thread is the ride height. With the new CN springs, to my eye the rear is still riding a bit higher than it should (at least relative to the front height which looks perfect). Should this settle further? (IE, how long does it take for new coils to break in?)
I am in an odd place with my car. I plan on ordering CN "lowering" springs to raise my car. A PO cut coils off the rear and it sits too low (looks pretty cool, though). But going too far/high is a concern. Ride height is so critical, imho.
Looking forward to the inaugural drive video, with the pooches' heads out the window drooling on the shiny paint.
Yes the rear looks high, but it should settle a bit after driving it around, how much is another question.
Scott, do you know if you have the 28mm or 38mm upper spring rubbers installed? That's an extra centimeter if you have the thicker ones.
If you have the thicker ones, you can have Benny & co to trim them down to 28mm or even a bit less than that.
Scott, do you know if you have the 28mm or 38mm upper spring rubbers installed? That's an extra centimeter if you have the thicker ones.
If you have the thicker ones, you can have Benny & co to trim them down to 28mm or even a bit less than that.
Belgiumbarry
Well-Known Member
seems to me alot of "work" ( truck) just to get a alignment ? Benny could have done it with a rope along the wheels in a hour ?
In the rear there's nothing you can do ( or depending model/year ? or there must be excentric bolts sets welded in ) , and in front only thing is the toe in ( by turning steering rod connectors) .
Camber is a fix plate here i remember ?
The rope method is more then enough on a E9... body/axels/steering remain so flexible under driving , it doens't need to be aligned to 1/10 of a degree.. no ?
In the rear there's nothing you can do ( or depending model/year ? or there must be excentric bolts sets welded in ) , and in front only thing is the toe in ( by turning steering rod connectors) .
Camber is a fix plate here i remember ?
The rope method is more then enough on a E9... body/axels/steering remain so flexible under driving , it doens't need to be aligned to 1/10 of a degree.. no ?
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I searched for everything ordered but didn't find either part referenced. I will need to ask. I think perhaps i did this bit much earlier but seems unlikely. I will ask Les Schwab?
Agree - the rope method is certainly adequate at least enough to drive it to the alignment shop. I drove two years through high school with cars that I aligned with string lines and eyeballs.
Today’s update: the car was waiting at Les Schwab all morning for someone more qualified to simply do the alignment or so I thought. I was unaware that there was “a bunch of extra parts“ related to the lowering of the suspension that were in the trunk and involving all sorts of things for the suspension that we’re not otherwise installed. No instructions were provided. They took their time trying to figure out what was what. They also discovered that the brake Lines were crossed causing them to leak and have no effect of this whatsoever. I asked them to do a full review of the suspension and anything else that comes to mind to ensure everything is in working order.
I created a short punchlist and looking forward to getting the vehicle hopefully tomorrow or Wednesday. Unfortunately the sunroof was never painted and I suspect that will take some time to dry and cure etc. so I will be driving around with a perfectly great looking car with a shitty looking unpainted sunroof. All the more reason to keep it open.
Here is the punch list I have so far:
Benny, please see below list from Friday and let me know what can/will be fixed today vs. later and when that will be.
My records show I have paid you $18k, so let me know the balance based upon the information we discussed.
I created a short punchlist and looking forward to getting the vehicle hopefully tomorrow or Wednesday. Unfortunately the sunroof was never painted and I suspect that will take some time to dry and cure etc. so I will be driving around with a perfectly great looking car with a shitty looking unpainted sunroof. All the more reason to keep it open.
Here is the punch list I have so far:
Benny, please see below list from Friday and let me know what can/will be fixed today vs. later and when that will be.
My records show I have paid you $18k, so let me know the balance based upon the information we discussed.
Sunroof paint and confirm it works
- Windows not going up all the way and super slow - all engines were replaced before it was brought in so sure they were working
- Belt Trim Gap on passenger side not matching up, and trim near bottom of passenger window not level: you can adjust that by bringing the fender section back and the door piece forward. The gap between the two pieces of belt molding can be adjusted by moving the door piece forward and the fender piece backward.
- Lettering not level, both 3.0 and CS should match the line of the trunk
- Door handle on drivers side a bit crooked
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- Paint screws for the air damn black
- Locate Drivers key
- Extra Carb jets were on the dash. Confirm
- the thin black rubber trim that goes under the door and rear side window chrome sills missing?
I think the rubber strip you are looking for is -
https://www.wallothnesch.com/en/catalogsearch/result/?order=name&dir=asc&q=54129734126
The strip is a small, narrow 'U-channel' measuring about 5mm or 2/10". I'd guess you might be able to push this onto the exterior chrome window frames without removing them - I hope so!
- Confirm all electronics, e.g. horn, lights, AC, etc. working
- Emergency brake test
- Hood lever not tight
- Brakes not working
- Confirm the antenna goes up and down
- Center grill for wood dashboard
- Any remaining parts including the paint for the upholstery
- Stickers for engine compartment - stickers.
- Get the headrests moving properly up and down.
- Polish side view mirrors
For some reason the CS does go uphill originally. You can have the holes welded shut and re-drill to follow the lip of the trunk lid.
When faced with that decision, I decided t leave it alone.
When faced with that decision, I decided t leave it alone.
Wow. It just looks like shit. But if this is original then I will leave it. It might be fun to do a show us your emblem thread
They still make the badges. You can always cut the posts off the badge and use 3M body tape to secure it straight. Make sure no holes will be visible before you cut the posts.
That’s what I’m talking about.
My cs badge was not crooked pre restoration. Remember, these were Germans. They wouldn't leave a badge like that crooked.
Stan, interesting.... I've had three E3's (two were young and arguably original paint/trim) and four variants of the 2002 and none of them had crooked rear insignias. Were the guys at Karman really that sloppy? It would bug the crap out of me too. Shouldn't the body shop have checked all this stuff before shooting paint?
The point about using modern double sided automtive exterior trim tape is a good one.
If you go that far you should try to get Into to make another run of 3.5 badges
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