Strut tower repair

tightbox

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My project coupe has had ugly structural metal strap repairs welded on top of the passenger side strut tower mount. I purchased a replacement panel, and I am wondering what the best place to cut/weld this panel is? Do I just replace the welded cylinder portion for the repair?

Is this repair/weld feasible without removal of the rear quarter panel? Can you get a bead all the way around with the limited access from above?

Who is best qualified in the NorCal area for a factory look repair?

The original structural reinforcement repair was done due more to stress - not rust, so a minimally viable replacement section is my preference.


Thanks in advance!


Here is a picture of the repair panel I have to work with:
 

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JFENG

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rear wheel housing

Mr. Box,
I guess it depends on if you want to do it the right way or just make a structurally adequate repair. I think the original attached via spot welds at the trunk floor flange. A short cut is to leave a couple inches of the the old metal attached to the floor as a place to make a joint. A short cut is to flange and do a lap joint there with fake spot welds (plug welds). The inaccuracy in where the new panel ends up is only the thickness of the sheet metal (or less). Or you spend a bit more time to get the new part accurately fitted, which allows a butt weld. I've only done butt welds with MIG. Doing the upper seam is fun as you're welding from below (watch out for welding spatter falling onto you).

Sven, you do 10x better work than me. What would you recommend?

John
 
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