Sludge In Oil Pan

JayWltrs

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W
I am curious to know what thread you refered to by the way.

Tony, No current thread. I've been meaning to post an inverse DeQuincey thread, if you will, on coolant refresh and flush--documenting repeated mistakes made without proper planning, tools, patience, or organization. But that would take us off topic here.

Actually, the old oil if owner don't know much of it (specs, for how long it is there etc.) - it's not the best option even to use it as a flush.
Drain old oil, put cheapest new filter & new cheapest oil, add engine flush, after 15 mins. drain it - it will be probably the best choice for the start.

Wladek, I changed the oil shortly after acquiring the car in February, and the bad old oil has been gone for some time. I discovered the sludge during my second oil change this week, so the car has fresh Valvoline VR1 20W-50. I cannot competently judge the filter-on v. filter-off debate. However, as you mention, I anticipate multiple changes to get clean. I will first convert to spin-off filter, because I was not granted patience to battle the old-style filter that many times. So, I will flush with the new filter in place to preserve my limited sanity reserves.

Thank you both.
 

Wladek

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Wladek, I changed the oil shortly after acquiring the car in February, and the bad old oil has been gone for some time. I discovered the sludge during my second oil change this week, so the car has fresh Valvoline VR1 20W-50. I cannot competently judge the filter-on v. filter-off debate. However, as you mention, I anticipate multiple changes to get clean. I will first convert to spin-off filter, because I was not granted patience to battle the old-style filter that many times. So, I will flush with the new filter in place to preserve my limited sanity reserves.

Thank you both.
If the engine was/is very dirt - even two flushes might be not enough.

p.s. i saw a test, where one guy after draining old oil, filled dirt, running engine just with diesel fuel + new oil filter (without oil at all) just for idle short 10 minutes flushes. And pure diesel fuel start to look like a dark brown honey, only after third flush. So you can imagine how long it would take if engine was flushed just with 1/10 mixture - flush additive/oil.
Of course he changed diesel fuel & oil filter for new after every single flush.
After that flushes he filled engine with target oil + new filter; then after couple months he made an update & according to it - engine was running without any leaks or issues.
 

lloyd

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"Sludge" is somewhat ill defined and conjures many different pictures. Sludge can be gooey, paste-like, hard, or even gritty. Although most often associated with neglected or poorly-tuned internal combustion engines, it has been known to occur even on modern "clean burning" engines. https://www.consumerreports.org/cro/cars/car-parts-and-accessories/engine-sludge/index.htm Some sludge might also be an unavoidable byproduct of internal engine detrius, following common engine repairs, including valve jobs or cylinder head replacement. It is also probably fair to say that most older non-computerized engines, if run long enough on gasoline, as opposed to something like LPG, will develop a thick film of deposits in or around the bottom of their oil sumps. Of course, frequent oil changes with decent oil and filters minimizes the problem, but it may not eliminate it. One measure of engine health is the color and smell of its 20W-50 life blood. (However, this is probably not the most accurate determinant. Oil analysis is probably far better, but generally more than one test is required for the most accurate assessment.)

You did not describe the sludge in detail, other than offer a side order of silvery gravy, which is likely babbitt material. This may be insignificant - or not. Flushing the engine has numerous pros and cons and one suspects that it tends to be a choice mostly for those engines with hydraulic lifters suspected of oil flow issues. In any event, prior to reaching for the flush, if you have not already done so, consider removing the valve cover and carefully examining the valve train for sludge. Sludge found on the valve cover's underside may contraindicate the use of flush. Pay particular attention to the condition of the cam lobes. If they show any significant wear, flush may only enhance that wear. (Should something in the oil manage to plug any oil spray bar orifice/s, the unpleasant results are typically observable on the camshaft.) Should you find the sludge to be "gritty," in the pan but not high near valves, it might be prudent to remove the sump pan and physically clean it, before or even after any flushing procedure. Be forewarned, "flush" may loosen rather than dissolve grit that never makes it to the filter. Where it comes to rest and in what condition remains to be determined. Although kerosene may be a simple go-to, and may be a primary ingredient found in most commercial flush products, if I were to use any such product, I'd be more inclined to try a formula that has been around for a while and marketed for that purpose, e.g., Rislone, Wynn's, Marvel Mystery Oil, etc. Having said that, ATF has been known to work on farming equipment.:oops:



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JayWltrs

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Lloyd,
Thanks. Educational & entertaining. Looks like I’ve got more poking around to do. I’d say my sludge is of the gooey varietal among those choices, but sample was limited. I was having fun following along until the second-to-last picture. I’m pretty sure mine’s not anywhere near that, but If I see it, I’m closing it back up & pulling the engine. As a famous Oklahoman once said, “ain’t nobody got time for that.”
Thanks again for spending your time putting that together. Jay
 

Rek

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I have used diesel to flush an engine in a 1985 420SL. Remove half the oil whilst the engine is warm. Replace with the equivalent diesel and run for about 3 minutes then drain the lot and replace oil and filter. Considerably cheaper than engine flush I would imagine, and seems very effective.
 

Tony.dreamer

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I have used diesel to flush an engine in a 1985 420SL. Remove half the oil whilst the engine is warm. Replace with the equivalent diesel and run for about 3 minutes then drain the lot and replace oil and filter. Considerably cheaper than engine flush I would imagine, and seems very effective.
I have done that many time too. Never had a problem with exception of smell of the diesel !
On my last flush with Liqui Moly I was very impressed with the results. It was on my 2002X5 BMW which I change the oil regularly as it has been my Daughther car for the last 15 years. It has 136k miles on it . After the flush and running “ Sea foam” through the intake the car runs much smoother with better gas millage.
 
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