I will check with La Jolla about replacing them. I imagine not cheap. Correct to assume just as easy to replace these down the line or should i do NOW?
The end is near....SCOTTeVEST's Baby
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same later as now, see my PM
Just when I thought I was done ordering parts... Makes sense to get these however for only $200 and if taking these out and repairing is likely going to result in damage and cause delays in shining up. Just one last question: Can I do this later, or does it make sense to do now? All the chrome/metal around the small triangle windows likely will need attn too. Ideally, I can do all this in the winter and be done, for now.
Again, thanks much!
The bright work around the vent window is a whole different deal
You have to pull it out of the door and take it all apart, replace the rubber stuff...
And that is chrome
You have to pull it out of the door and take it all apart, replace the rubber stuff...
And that is chrome
The drip rails are polished aluminum
The piece underneath the drip rails is also polished aluminum
The trim strip on top of the window glass is polished aluminum
The interior roof pieces where the headliner meets the door opening are polished aluminum
The door interior vertical door jamb trim (sandwiched between the vinyl welts and the rear door/ front kick panel) is polished aluminum
The shiny door jamb cover visible when you open the door is polished aluminum
The entire vent window structure is chrome
The vertical trim between the front and rear window is chrome (pre-74 anyway - we discussed this about your car a few months back)
The horizontal pieces at the base of the windows F/R are chrome
The door handles are chrome
The belt-line trim is aluminum
The piece underneath the drip rails is also polished aluminum
The trim strip on top of the window glass is polished aluminum
The interior roof pieces where the headliner meets the door opening are polished aluminum
The door interior vertical door jamb trim (sandwiched between the vinyl welts and the rear door/ front kick panel) is polished aluminum
The shiny door jamb cover visible when you open the door is polished aluminum
The entire vent window structure is chrome
The vertical trim between the front and rear window is chrome (pre-74 anyway - we discussed this about your car a few months back)
The horizontal pieces at the base of the windows F/R are chrome
The door handles are chrome
The belt-line trim is aluminum
Sent this to Benny just now. BTW, any idea on what I should expect to pay to get all the metal shined up? That seems to be the biggest unknown at this point.
- Don's Metal:
- This looks awesome! I will bring this by sometime today, although not sure if you can put the front window in until wood has been treated or back window in until belt trim is installed.
- He originally promised all metal would be completed within 3 weeks, which means next Friday it should all be done. I recommend that you contact him next Wednesday to give him a friendly reminder. He wasn't sure if he would be able to shine up the kidney grill pieces, but said he would try.
- Belt Trim should go in before Rear Window
- I asked the forum: My mini-restoration is proceeding well. We are just about to put the rear window back in, but don't have the chrome back for the belt trim. I was advised not to put the rear window back before the belt trim is installed though. Can anyone explain why?, and they reported:
- I would wait. The rear window frames have a provision for accessing the nuts for the trim buy I would advise against installing the rear windows until the trim is installed.
- Wish I knew that! I removed my trim by sticking my hand back there through the trunk. It's probably even more difficult with a '74 due to the support fins that come down from the inner fender wells.
- Not sure if belt trim has metal that is needed to install or just the plastic stuff, but will leave in your good hands
- I would wait. The rear window frames have a provision for accessing the nuts for the trim buy I would advise against installing the rear windows until the trim is installed.
- I asked the forum: My mini-restoration is proceeding well. We are just about to put the rear window back in, but don't have the chrome back for the belt trim. I was advised not to put the rear window back before the belt trim is installed though. Can anyone explain why?, and they reported:
- Wood:
- the finish on the wood trim is "starving" for more clear coat .Walnut is an "open pored" wood and requires several coats with sanding between coats. The finish build as it is now, needs another good sand (280 grit) and then start building coats of clear(sanding between coats)until there are no longer wood pores visible when held up to the light. You can see the imperfections on the lower edge of the wood in the video when you move it back and forth in the light. Several coats of clear plus sanding would probably hide that. Also the dashboard biscuits aren't a very good match. Anyway, the original satin finish is smooth with no exposed pores. I'm only bringing it up because you asked, and now is the time to make adjustments if desired.
- Did you find out where that slated plate is?
- the finish on the wood trim is "starving" for more clear coat .Walnut is an "open pored" wood and requires several coats with sanding between coats. The finish build as it is now, needs another good sand (280 grit) and then start building coats of clear(sanding between coats)until there are no longer wood pores visible when held up to the light. You can see the imperfections on the lower edge of the wood in the video when you move it back and forth in the light. Several coats of clear plus sanding would probably hide that. Also the dashboard biscuits aren't a very good match. Anyway, the original satin finish is smooth with no exposed pores. I'm only bringing it up because you asked, and now is the time to make adjustments if desired.
- Bumpers: We agreed your solution is fine, but would love to readdress and remove rubber and fill in with all chrome this winter.
- Front Air Dam: Confirm if this is being done as envisioned. Before doing so, I'd love to hold it up just to sense how it will look. We can do this when I am there today.
- Drip Gutters over doors
- You indicated that you could shine these up there. The forum was a bit surprise they weren't removed when painting but said that removal would likely destroy them however. I can order new ones for about $100 each. LET ME KNOW IF I SHOULD ORDER ASAP. Seems easier to do this than shine them or give them to Don. Part Nos. 51131813025 & 51131813026 and they are about $100 each
Mark, and a trick question part, the part between the tail lights?
Early cars, chrome on brass!
Early cars, chrome on brass!
I know we have talked about this before, but on shining up the aluminum:
The original aluminum on the exterior trim is clear anodized
To polish the aluminum you would have to abrade through the coating or chemical strip it
I have not personally tired to do that
Then you can polish
If you don't coat the aluminum after a while it will turn dull and grey
To slow or prevent that you can coat it
You can just re-polish it now and then, but that is difficult when a small part is on the car
Your can coat it to slow or stop the dulling
Some of your choices are, clear paint, clear ceramic coating 'Ceracote', or wax
Don't do clear paint, that isn't really a choice, it will look like clear paint and will probably yellow
Wax is easy and reversible
Most durable, looks great, is Ceracote, but it is not easy to apply
They do make a DIY kit, never tired it
Even 'professional' places can screw up Ceracote, and it is almost impossible to get off
The original aluminum on the exterior trim is clear anodized
To polish the aluminum you would have to abrade through the coating or chemical strip it
I have not personally tired to do that
Then you can polish
If you don't coat the aluminum after a while it will turn dull and grey
To slow or prevent that you can coat it
You can just re-polish it now and then, but that is difficult when a small part is on the car
Your can coat it to slow or stop the dulling
Some of your choices are, clear paint, clear ceramic coating 'Ceracote', or wax
Don't do clear paint, that isn't really a choice, it will look like clear paint and will probably yellow
Wax is easy and reversible
Most durable, looks great, is Ceracote, but it is not easy to apply
They do make a DIY kit, never tired it
Even 'professional' places can screw up Ceracote, and it is almost impossible to get off
Yup! I own both.
where do you get all this stuff?
that's interesting, someone said maybe the brass where only on the 2000s
Not to hijack this thread but they were misinformed...
Went by to deliver the window "chrome." I'm out of town until next Thursday, so no more updates until then. No need to watch. The only thing you might find interesting is how the vinyl doors are turning out with the colorbond "paint."
Thanks all!!!
Thanks all!!!
on making the side marking inside black, mock it up, just put some black paper or tape in them and try it
but if glossy it will show all the funny stuff, if flat might look like a hole
but if glossy it will show all the funny stuff, if flat might look like a hole
on the metal trim parts, what did you have them coated with?
the belt trim is not the rocker or around the window, it is the trim that is 6 inches under the side window, all the way around, on the fenders, hood etc
I can try to mock it up but am thinking it will look odd
no idea... I will ask.
oh. makes sense.
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