renew distributor of 3.0 Cs dated 1971

[deQuincey]

distributor renewal
using repair kits of w&n (washers, retain clips,...etc)

take pics of the process, it will help

take care one is a washer, but the other is dielectric

before cleaning

petrol bath

all parts cleaned with steel wire xtra fine "000", clean with pressure air, and again qith petrol

finally all metalic parts to a engine oil bath, after that, remove excess with a clean paper

ready for start assembly

 

[61porsche]

Symtoms and inspection

DQ,

Was there any symtom that started the quest? And any obvious part(s) that were less than optimal upon inspection?

 

[deQuincey]

repair sets of w&n

use grease (little, wipe excess with a cloth)

diffcult task of the assembly, this retaining clip must be fitted in the narrow side of the axis, but you must do it when the head is in its place, so you will have to operate through a narrow hole

here finally fitted in its place, two narrow screwdrivers and some luck !

do not forget the oiler damp, add two tiny droplets of engine oil

a little grease in the rotating axis

done !

hope it helps

do not hesitate to ask if any doubt

 

[deQuincey]

DQ,

Was there any symtom that started the quest? And any obvious part(s) that were less than optimal upon inspection?

not the case, only grease and dirt, also some corrosion in some metallic parts

may i ask about the reason of your question, do you think is not worth doing ? any risk in the operative that balances the benefits ?

regards

 

[61porsche]

Observations

DQ,

I believe that preventative maintenance is what keeps "the joy" of owning a coupe in perspective after all these years have past since new.

Usually, an inspection of the distributer is done because of a symtom. Advance not smooth, early over advance, and the like.

Causes related to distributers can be broken or weak springs, corrosion on the post/ weights, and rough bearings/ bushes.

It's worthwile in my opinion as part of wanting the car to respond at it's best to continue to take on projects which at least provide a piece of mind and knowledge. I've seen minor things such as greasing the cam lobes fix a rough idle/ timing fluctuation.:-D

 

[deQuincey]

+1

i assume that nobody has done in the recent history of the car any preventive maintenance

and i want my things clean and in "perfect" function (when possible)

regards

 

[Stefan]

Very good photo documentation for this kind of work deQuincey!

 

[eriknetherlands]

indeed helpfull topic by Dequincey; and some more tips

DeQuincey,

thanks for the detailed, picture supported, instructions. I used it yesterday to disassemble and reassemble my distributor; took me less then 2,5 hours to fix it all. As it's a daily driver, it couln't be more then a one nighter anyway.....with your instructions I managed perfectly and even had some time left for chit chat; kept the wife happy too.
The general cleaning & new lubrication indeed solved the non-stable idle and gives faster pickup when depressing the accelerator peddle. It seems that also the dipping of the revs when pressing the accelerator peddle from standstill is solved. I am actually spining the wheels now, haven't been able to do that for a month or so.

A few hints for others wanting to do thesame;
- If it's just a thorough cleaning that you require, you can do it too with the crown gear still in place. In my case the retaining pin couldn't be hammered out (drove my vice into the ground almost), so i found out that you CAN dismantle it from the top, right down to the excentric masses by just disassembling the bits.
- i actually think you can clean it to the level that i did with the distrubutor still on the block. Aside from pulling your hamstrings, it should be doable. Positive aspect is that you don't have to worry about the timing being changed, as you don't alter the relation crowngear to rotor.
- the part that you can't remove (axle with grooves and the plate with the hinge points for the masses) can be cleaned effectively by pouring solvent in the housing and spining the axle. There are 3 holes in the bottom of the housing to let out the (in my case) very dirty solvent with pieces of grit, sand and small stones. Not the things you want in there. I think they get there the same way i got them out; through the 3 holes. A cup of solvent (roughly 0,3 liter) was sufficient to flush all out and see shiny aluminium again on the inside of the housing.
- i also found the brown/black 0,5mm plate to be broken in 2 pieces, this has been discussed also in other threads i noticed. As i had no replacement/spare/donor to use, I reinstalled it anyway. No strange behaviour when driving (yet). I assume it only acts a sliding contact surface for the masses. As long as the sliding paths are not compromised and they keep their location, they should function i guess. Probably it's a low friction material to allow the masses to move as they want. It looks a lot like a PCB, (printed circuit board) by the way; those are usually glass filled Epoxy resin.

Hope it is helpfull to others.
Erik.

 

[nico13]

Dear Eric,
I notice there is a short and a long pin under the rotating plate?
Does it make any diffrance how this is mounted?
Regards,
Nico

 

[deQuincey]

- i also found the brown/black 0,5mm plate to be broken in 2 pieces, this has been discussed also in other threads i noticed. As i had no replacement/spare/donor to use, I reinstalled it anyway. No strange behaviour when driving (yet). I assume it only acts a sliding contact surface for the masses. As long as the sliding paths are not compromised and they keep their location, they should function i guess. Probably it's a low friction material to allow the masses to move as they want. It looks a lot like a PCB, (printed circuit board) by the way; those are usually glass filled Epoxy resin.

Hope it is helpfull to others.
Erik.

thanks erik,
i do have hand made spares of that plate made from 0,5 mm raw circuit board
if you find the naterial you can do by yourself