Polishing the valve cover and intake
- Thread starter chicane
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Red rouge and a buffing wheel. Worked for me.
chicane
Well-Known Member
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That's just a buffing compound, yes?
mhoffman
Member
red rouge is a grade of buffing compound- you can get it at most hime improvement stores...depending on the current status of your parts, you may want to start with a faster cutting compound and wheel then work your way up to rouge- it would go faster that way.
Buffing or blasting?
This coming winter, one of the things I will do is to remove the oxide and make the intake together with valve cover to look more "new from 70'th".
I've been told to do a smoth blastering and put a very thin layer of clear coat.
Smoth blastering could be ice or nutshell.
When you work with buffing compound you will get more like a glossy surface.
The original surface is rather rough. Is it possible to get a "back to basic look" without blastering?
This coming winter, one of the things I will do is to remove the oxide and make the intake together with valve cover to look more "new from 70'th".
I've been told to do a smoth blastering and put a very thin layer of clear coat.
Smoth blastering could be ice or nutshell.
When you work with buffing compound you will get more like a glossy surface.
The original surface is rather rough. Is it possible to get a "back to basic look" without blastering?
Pophamrt
New Member
Soda Blasting...
Pressure blasting with bicarbonate of soda, referred to as "soda blasting" will clean the aluminum valve cover and leave an as new factory finish. Then either clear satin powdercoat or a high temperature non-yellowing laquer will preserve the finish. Bead blasting will give more of a matte or slightly duller finish even after clearcoating, but could possibly work with walnut shells or plastic media. A lot of shops will bead blast with fine glass particles, but be careful. The baffles under the cover are very difficult to keep particles from enterring even when prepped with tape, etc. and will cause wear in your valve train, bearings, etc. once they release.
Pressure blasting with bicarbonate of soda, referred to as "soda blasting" will clean the aluminum valve cover and leave an as new factory finish. Then either clear satin powdercoat or a high temperature non-yellowing laquer will preserve the finish. Bead blasting will give more of a matte or slightly duller finish even after clearcoating, but could possibly work with walnut shells or plastic media. A lot of shops will bead blast with fine glass particles, but be careful. The baffles under the cover are very difficult to keep particles from enterring even when prepped with tape, etc. and will cause wear in your valve train, bearings, etc. once they release.