New Member -Calif. inherited barn find ‘70 2800 cs

CSteve

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Nothing scares me about that car. If it didn't have a crapped paint job put on it years ago it would "look" a lot nicer than it does, but the paint means nothing. That's a good car... with an undercarriage inspection of course.
These guys are Carwhisperers. Listen closely and carefully! You can't go wrong.
 

lilacocelot

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lilacocelet -- You have some of the best people on the planet to help sell a coupe in this thread.

Please reply promptly to HBChris' request for your VIN. Chris is a huge asset to this community, knows everyone who is anyone, and has helped me out on numerous occasions.
Def. will get the VIN #, it’s prob. on the pink slip at my brother’s house. I am SO appreciative and really in awe with the feedback and positive comments on the car. Especially since my sisters were in favor of just donating it to get rid of it
 

dang

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Especially since my sisters were in favor of just donating it to get rid of it
e9coupe.com takes donations. ;)

But seriously, what's happening here is a car that's been in your family for years, and will always have that connection to your father, will find it's way to a new curator and continue on its legacy. It's all good.
 

Ohmess

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Def. will get the VIN #, it’s prob. on the pink slip at my brother’s house. I am SO appreciative and really in awe with the feedback and positive comments on the car. Especially since my sisters were in favor of just donating it to get rid of it

Fix it up and keep it. You have the best infrastructure outside of Germany for that car right in your back yard, and when you are done you can hang around with us all the time!
 

bluecoupe30!

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Def. will get the VIN #, it’s prob. on the pink slip at my brother’s house. I am SO appreciative and really in awe with the feedback and positive comments on the car. Especially since my sisters were in favor of just donating it to get rid of it
You have the VIN plate almost visible in one of your open hood photos. You posted this morning one shot, passenger side, hood open, passenger side, lower windshield, just inside inner fender area, black rectangular BMW ID plate. The VIN is there.
 

JMinPDX

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Looks like a complete car. I’m guessing Italian import due to the euro bits and Italian turn signal lens.
“Fixing up” a coupe that’s been dormant for 25 years more or less outdoors could be a daunting and expensive process.
I think it could bring close to this BAT project: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-bmw-3-0cs/
Condition of the undercarriage will tell the tale.
Whatever you decide take comfort in knowing your Dad had great taste in cars.
John
 

Markos

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Thank you @Atavistic for letting me modify your engine bay photo for the greater good.

29E27CCB-8348-4A01-B42E-EF1225DC865F.jpeg


Also - I knew the brass coolant tank would be present! This car is very original!
 

Sven

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It could be that most of the surface rust we see is a result of the marine air. How close to the ocean was the car stored? If that is the case I think there would be surface rust on the interior side of the panels, in which case all four corners would need to come off.
 

Tim M

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Take your time on this project, they are going up in value + store it in a garage/storage unit.
Ps your Dad had good taste for sure!
 

lilacocelot

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It could be that most of the surface rust we see is a result of the marine air. How close to the ocean was the car stored? If that is the case I think there would be surface rust on the interior side of the panels, in which case all four corners would need to come off.
It is a little less than 2 miles from the ocean, where it was stored in a carport.
 

Markos

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If this is not the VIN #, I can go ck for it on the car tomorrow- But on the title it says the vehicle ID number is 2200405

As I mentioned it would be a 220 VIN and indeed it is. Build dates and VIN numbers don’t go hand-in-hand, but it is essentially the 405th E9 built (I’m not counting 2000 CS) cars. There are less than 10 operable e9’s that members have registered before your car. This reinforces my bias for early 2800 CS cars, especially one as original as this. Other cars in this VIN range were built and titled as 1969’s. It would be late in the year but because it is a euro the model year would match the build year (unlike US cars that tend to flip around September).

For the forum members, the chin on this car has the skinny outer-most slot in it (near the bumper bracket). This is mostly a 1973+ phenomenon. I wonder if it was replaced? I’m also curious because my 220 1971 has this also, but it has been smacked around a bit.

7F7F46D3-02A9-4455-94ED-367CA45C78A8.jpeg
 

Markos

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Next steps, send the VIN to [email protected]. State that it is from your family estate and you would like the production information. You will hear aback within 24 hours.

I also recommend that you have an E9 pro evaluate the body. That will help you land on an informed value. There are a number of professional and amateur e9 experts in the bay area. You just have to find the rust. You don't need a quote on the cost to fix (extremely subjective). Fortunately the problem areas are well documented and for the most part, the rust is easy to spot. There is a lot going on inside the rockers, and you can't see all of it. Like a tooth, if the outside is visibly rotting, you can assume that the inside is shot. So you are looking for exterior rot, preferably underneath the cosmetic fender covers (which remove easily in theory but the screws are likely stuck/stripped). If you have an impact driver (aka super powerful screwdriver), that will either force them out or snap the heads. Either way works for a car in this state. ;) You can also run a $30 scope from amazon through the rocker.

Without listing the car outright, I can think of four potentially interested parties that like to hoard and/or flip e9's. These guys are easy to sell to, but don't expect to see a restored car in two years. This car is great for someone with the time and money to get into the game, because it is assembled. It is really hard for folks to restore cars that come in 32 boxes unless they have one to reference, or they are an e9 restoration pro. I think that the car may do well on Bat also, but the rust comments will be driven by sentiment and hearsay not facts about your car.
 

lilacocelot

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Next steps, send the VIN to [email protected]. State that it is from your family estate and you would like the production information. You will hear aback within 24 hours.

I also recommend that you have an E9 pro evaluate the body. That will help you land on an informed value. There are a number of professional and amateur e9 experts in the bay area. You just have to find the rust. You don't need a quote on the cost to fix (extremely subjective). Fortunately the problem areas are well documented and for the most part, the rust is easy to spot. There is a lot going on inside the rockers, and you can't see all of it. Like a tooth, if the outside is visibly rotting, you can assume that the inside is shot. So you are looking for exterior rot, preferably underneath the cosmetic fender covers (which remove easily in theory but the screws are likely stuck/stripped). If you have an impact driver (aka super powerful screwdriver), that will either force them out or snap the heads. Either way works for a car in this state. ;) You can also run a $30 scope from amazon through the rocker.

Without listing the car outright, I can think of four potentially interested parties that like to hoard and/or flip e9's. These guys are easy to sell to, but don't expect to see a restored car in two years. This car is great for someone with the time and money to get into the game, because it is assembled. It is really hard for folks to restore cars that come in 32 boxes unless they have one to reference, or they are an e9 restoration pro. I think that the car may do well on Bat also, but the rust comments will be driven by sentiment and hearsay not facts about your car.
Markos- I got a Failure Delivery error message with that email address, I used the
 
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