My Project Thread Commences, Thoughts Welcome

wasatch

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A BMW E9 Case Study....

Okay, I thought I'd start a thread on 2270336, 1970 2800CS.

I purchased it last year. The previous owner put in $12K of mechanical work 3 years ago, stored it after the work was done...then i bought it and have basically dry stored it since Jan 2012. I drove her today. Started right up on first try after 5 months. I put re-finished alpinas on it today, then back in storage.

Body/Rust wise: the paint is very tired. originally night blue, now black. no bubbling and without being an expert, rust looks minimal in some of the trouble areas, EXCEPT...the floor boards. Holy cow. I only lifted the passenger carpet and deadening, not the driver. I'm SURE there is rust in other areas (of course there is, but I can't see it), but looking around nothing is noticeable besides the floors in the typical trouble spots (wheel wells, pillars, trunk, etc). But LOOK below at the passenger floor board photo taken today. Mein god!

My plan WAS to have her stripped, repaired, and painted next winter, but I wonder if based on these rusted out floors and an ASSUMED extrapolation that rust is certainly in other areas... if people would advise taking the stance of driving her as is until she expires without fixing the floors, etc, OR putting in $15K of body work, etc. I have no idea what floor replacement costs??, but can only imagine... The puzzle here is that mechanically she's really really sound, especially with all the new work (see below). The interior is solid, refinished wood, seats and trim and headliner all tidy.

I don't know how bad rust will be in other areas when stripped, and basically I'm at a point of TOTAL confusion and in need of advice as to what to do. Can anyone relate?

A) Invest and go all in, resurrect her (guessing $15K, maybe that's off?)
B) Drive her 'as is' until she expires one day.
C) Sell her (unclear to me even how much she's worth--I paid $12,300)

Advice and/or condolences?

I was planning on the strip and paint and had budgeted $7-10K, but now seeing the floors and guessing there is more rust lurking, I just have no idea where that could run...

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Here's what was upgraded, from sales description in Jan 2012.

This work has almost zero mileage on it...

The interior is great, black vinyl seats in good shape, dash and clocks are nice and function well. The wood on the dash and door panels has been lovingly refinished and is truly gorgeous. It needs window switches and the center console/stereo needs work. Door seals leave something to be desired.
Always stored inside, needs only a caring owner to finalize the restoration.

Complete engine service under the hood on a reputedly rebuilt motor (no history but it looks perfect, no leaks!):
-All new ignition: plugs, wires, distributor
-All new cooling: EVERY hose & clamp, water pump, thermostat & fan upgrade to e28 style, recored radiator & heater core
-e28 oil filter housing, all fuel hoses, belts, power steering hoses, motor & trans mounts, and every tune up & maintenance piece I could replace

Getrag 265 5 speed conversion & short shift kit
-Used Getrag 265 with 125000 miles on it
-New clutch & resurfaced flywheel
-New short shift kit with every bushing
-Rebuilt custom driveshaft
-Removed & resealed differential, painted case, new mount bushings on diff & rear subframe

Complete suspension & brake overhaul
-New Bilstein HD Struts & shocks & mounts
-New control arms & ball joints, thrust rod bushings
-New tie rods, center steering link & idler arm & bushing
-New Pads, rotors & rebuilt calipers, wheel bearings & brake hoses on all four corners
 

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Peter Coomaraswamy

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you call that rust?

From the picture attached, which as you said does not represent everything, I would not let that deter me. The seats and carpet are easily removed and if you can get it on a lift you can do some pretty extensive poking around. You can pull off the rocker covers (sharp Philips screwdriver) and then look in all the trouble areas. Again, from what I see... you could drive it and fix little things as you go. Just my 2 cents. I attached a picture of my floors and I took the entire car to bare metal after I found this. There were a few holes in the spare tire well and that was all. The front floor replacement cost me about 600.00, which was 399.00 for the floors and less than 200.00 to have them welded in by someone who knew what they were doing (a friend who did lots of mustangs), but this was his regular rate. Go for it- whatever you choose!
 

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wasatch

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Thanks Peter! That photo is probably representative of what mine looks like peeled away (i'm guessing) and makes me feel a bit better about my investigative work this afternoon..!

PS: fun to see your results out of the shop, looks really really nice, so congrats on it!
 

Nicad

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That floor might not be so bad. Hit it with a hammer and see if you can go through. If it only dents, clean it up both sides and cover with something like POR 15.
 

rsporsche

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That floor might not be so bad. Hit it with a hammer and see if you can go through. If it only dents, clean it up both sides and cover with something like POR 15.
novel approach there Bob ... i would try tapping to see how solid it is, then hit it. rust has a definite different sound than solid metal.
 

Victor

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Rusted floors

Actually those floors look really good compared to mine.
I lost my hammer and my 6 year old thru the holes in my pans last week.
Thought of starting a thread but its really sad.

Mike has already been contacted thanks to info from this forum.

Anyone know the name of the green color. My car was originally that green but since been repainted black as well.
 

Stan

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Actually those floors look really good compared to mine.
I lost my hammer and my 6 year old thru the holes in my pans last week.
Thought of starting a thread but its really sad.

Mike has already been contacted thanks to info from this forum.

Anyone know the name of the green color. My car was originally that green but since been repainted black as well.

There are several green colors...
Picture?
 

jmackro

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Actually those floors look really good compared to mine.

Rust is a funny thing - sometimes it only attacts selected areas. Floors can rust because the carpets and insulation were allowed to stay wet (does your car have a sunroof or a plugged A/C condensate drain?). If you are lucky, the floors may be the only rust area. You won't really know until all the paint comes off the car.

I was planning on the strip and paint and had budgeted $7-10K

Certainly add floor replacement to your "to do" list while the car is in the bodyshop. But as others have written, the floor replacement won't be big bucks by itself. Your $7-10K budget may be on the light side - a lot will depend on how much disassembly/reassembly you do yourself, and of course, how much additional rust the shop finds.

The dilemma is that once you strip off the paint, if you do find more rust (or poorly repaired accident damage), the value of the stripped car is low - you really would need to finish the body & paint in order to sell it, but it would be tough to recover that investment. My advice is to not look at coupe ownership from a strict economic perspective!
 
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echappe

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Pull the rocker panel cover (runs between whells wells with a chrome strip attached to it If you find swiss cheese there as well you can plan on spending some duckies. Replacement panels are available and this is doable. can you weld? As nice as the rest of the car cosmetic and mechanical, IMHO opinion the car is definitely worth restoring. My friend here in Florida recently sold his cherry 2800CS for $36K.
 

wasatch

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Thanks all! I'm going all in (yes, my sanity is debatable) and sending her for stripping in one month...As you all indicate, the mystery will unravel fast as the paint comes off. The plan would be to proceed and keep the car to enjoy vs. sell. Stay tuned, more photos to eventually come...
 

wasatch

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She's off to the land of body shop...Godspeed!
 

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