momo metal cleaning advice

[autokunst]

I am preparing to send a Momo Prototipo wheel out to be re-wrapped in leather. I want to refurbish the metal so the leather wrap artist only has to focus on the soft stuff. I thought the metal would clean up easily, but I've learned that there are a couple of blemishes that I can't seem to make go away, especially on the right spoke. Was thinking about de-anodizing the metal and going after the spots more aggressively (re-brushing the aluminum surface). But if anyone has any less invasive suggestions, I welcome them! By the way, the back of the spokes look like new. Unfortunately, no one sees that side of the wheel.

 

[Markos]

Don’t denodize. You will etch the metal and lose the brushed aluminum. Try wd-40 and #0000 super fine steel wool. Follow the grain when you scrub.

WD-40 is a solvent but as we all know, it has lubrication properties also. I use it to clean everything and I use #0000 steel wool all the time. I’ve got a few members hooked.

I haven’t found a good way around the aluminum grain issue but I am slowly experimenting with a damaged 350mm Clay Regazzoni wheel. I’m sanding it with 80 grit sandpaper and matching the grain. I don’t recommend unless the wheel is shot.

 

[John D]

That's etched in the metal a bit too deep not to get a little aggressive IMO. Have you tried using a scotch bright pad that a body shop tech would use to scuff panel to prep for paint?

 

[Markos]

If it is etched in there you can try a foam brush of silver model paint. Then wipe it clean.

 

[Mal CSL 3.0]

I would probably leave it alone, since it's just natural metal ageing (patina).. I find with steering wheels it is easy to make them look worse than the flaws you endeavour to fix.
(I used some Autosol on a Nardi once, and it totally destroyed the finish)

 

[Markos]

I would probably leave it alone, since it's just natural metal ageing (patina).. I find with steering wheels it is easy to make them look worse than the flaws you endeavour to fix.
(I used some Autosol on a Nardi once, and it totally destroyed the finish)

I tend to agree. The only reason why I restore wheels is because I buy wheels that are either beyond the patina stage, or wheels that were poorly restored to begin with.

 

[autokunst]

Wow - a whole variety of thoughts. In looking closely at the marks, I have to agree that it appears to be oxidation or etching into the aluminum. I tried a grey scotch bright pad (pretty mild 400 grit equivalent) with a mild cleaner and that didn't do anything. While I tend to agree with the idea of patina, the wheel is something that is so front and center - a piece of the car you interact with continuously - a visual and tactile experience. At the moment, I can't imagine driving the car without my eye catching that larger blemish.

I'm not sure I understand the concern about refinishing the aluminum, right down to re-brushing it. Of course, I'll feel differently after ruining it. :eek: But it is just metal.

I am looking into some other professional sources for their take before doing anything crazy.

 

[Markos]

I'm not sure I understand the concern about refinishing the aluminum, right down to re-brushing it. Of course, I'll feel differently after ruining it. :eek: But it is just metal.

I’ve looked into removing the anodization on my Alpina. Everything I read is that it won’t be the same after. This is for anodized aluminum in general and not a brushed momo. We have seen a lot of mixed reviews from folks that anodized their kidney grilled. that process involves sanding and polishing, something that you can’t do well with the momo. If you sand off the anodizing on the momo, it might work. I agree with others that it may look worse when done.

This is where I am at with my Clay R. Wheel. The bright areas are sanded and the dark areas are anodized.

 

[autokunst]

Hmmmm. Point noted.

 

[Markos]

Hmmmm. Point noted.

If you do want to practice sanding one I can send your my 350mm clay wheel. If it gets too screwed up I’m going to nickel plate it.

 

[autokunst]

If you do want to practice sanding one I can send your my 350mm clay wheel. If it gets too screwed up I’m going to nickel plate it.

Not sure I'd be comfortable experimenting on someone else's stuff, despite the allure of possible nickel plating.

 

[Markos]

Not sure I'd be comfortable experimenting on someone else's stuff, despite the allure of possible nickel plating.

Your call. I bought the wheel for the hub and horn button. It is still saveable and sanding won’t affect the nickel plating. Personally I would leave your wheel or try the paint technique.

 

[Wladek]

Steve - leave anodizing as it is, as for me it's not bad at all
Don't use steel wool (even #0000) as it will give you even with gentle movements some gloss effect & you probably want to still stay satin/matte. Use only cotton cloth & some polishing compund (intended only for manual processing).
Start with back side:confused:
Good cleaning & re-upholstery will do the main job.

 

[Markos]

Steve - leave anodizing as it is, as for me it's not bad at all
Don't use steel wool (even #0000) as it will give you even with gentle movements some gloss effect & you probably want to still stay satin/matte. Use only cotton cloth & some polishing compund (intended only for manual processing).
Start with back side:confused:
Good cleaning & re-upholstery will do the main job.

I disagree on the #0000 steel wool having done it several times before. I don't blame anyone for advising against it though.

 

[autokunst]

I am a little bit overwhelmed by the consistency of comments in the "leave it alone" camp. It is not in my nature to accept that I can't replicate this simple brushed aluminum finish on the spokes. But I also have to realize that this really should not be on my critical path list right now. I am going to try one more thing tonight, and then will probably leave it alone (for now). Thanks for all of the input!!!

 

[Marc-M]

Well here is my view…what’s its worth

I has my aluminium re done,but it was bright finish – and some of it came out great ,some of it was crap… and I went to town on getting it right…

The steering wheel has been satin anodized and the only way to get it something like would be to get the anodizing stripped off and then the wheel would have to be polished to get rid of the corrosion, after polishing you would then have to put on the brushing finish…. However, you may find that using sand paper of the right grit will do the job without the polishing… but you need to strip the anodizing off first...

You will have to polish or sand deep and cannot always get all of the corrosion out of the aluminium, as you may have to go deep.

Once polished and or sanded, you needed to take the wheel to the anodizers within a few days, as aluminium starts to corrode quite quickly.

I would then get the wheel satin finished as the original, and satin finish is more forgiving than bright finish.

However, if there is any corrosion left in the wheel, and it’s hard to spot, the anodizing over the corrosion comes out milky- see my pictures of my results- but don’t forget satin finish is more forgiving.


Hope it helps

Marc

this is what I had......... before

this what what I got after all the work - you can see the pit marks - they could not polish any deeper

Again the side trims - on close inspection, they have pit marks and I ended up getting all new ones, infact I ended getting all new inc the B posts as well as they came out ok but not perfect.....
The only ones im keeping are the internal ones and they came out very good.....

Hope it helps
Marc

 

[nosmonkey]

Trick I used to use on anodised aluminium RC car parts was to dip them in a mild solution of caustic soda for up to 30 seconds and then removing from the pot and polishing. Leaving it too long will turn the aluminium grey so caution needs to be exercised. You'll feel the container warming as it reacts to the anodising

 

[autokunst]

Well, against almost everyone's advice, I went at the oxidation area a bit harder. And, as everyone except apparently me predicted, I went through the top layer of finish. Looks like I've opened myself a new can of worms. I can't leave it like this. Therefore, I will probably try to get a uniform finish throughout and either re-anodize or achieve some other finish. I'm going to have to take the rubber off so I have just metal to play with during this event. It may not look exactly like it did when it left the Momo factory, but it will look good. Maybe that nickel plated finish that @Markos mentioned.

 

[Markos]

Hang tight. Try brushing on one of these two products. Apologies in advance for the production value.

With the greased lightning you want the super strength:

If you do sand, don’t let the sandpaper change directions. Follow the stroke all the way through then lift the paper.

 

[bluecoupe30!]

I have used Drano to de-anodize treated aluminum. Fast and effective. Then I could polish as long as I wanted, but still does not make metal perfect as there may still be pits and damage. However I appreciated the simplicity and the chance to make milky, dull, grey old aluminum trim, shine again. Patina is, however, permanent, unless you have some industrial refinishing connections. Mike