Is your engine tilted too forward which would put the tranny to high in the tunel?
Getrag 265 fits badly
- Thread starter wolfram
- Start date
Sounds like a bad Center bearing.
inovermyhead
Well-Known Member
The bearing is new Don, you sent it to me, it has been pre- loaded and shimmed to make sure everything lines up, the diff mounts have been reinforced, drive shafts rebuilt, prop shaft re-re balanced and one suspect knuckle replaced, exhaust mounts re looked at to make sure there is no issues anywhere, guibo replaced and torqued to specs..... on and on
Steve, how could the engine be tilted forward if it sits on the mounts correctly?
Marks on the inside of the transmission tunnel show contact just to the rear of short front section of prop....
What else could it be other than soft(new) engine mounts allowing the torque to twist the engine under load, we tried stationary on a hoist and no issue, only apparent under load eg hill start or 70% + throttle in 1st only ???
Steve, how could the engine be tilted forward if it sits on the mounts correctly?
Marks on the inside of the transmission tunnel show contact just to the rear of short front section of prop....
What else could it be other than soft(new) engine mounts allowing the torque to twist the engine under load, we tried stationary on a hoist and no issue, only apparent under load eg hill start or 70% + throttle in 1st only ???
Send me a pic of center bearing in position and a pic of motor mounts clearly showing bolt, nut and locating pin. I need an exact pic of the guibo looking straight up at it. Is the guibo wavy? Pic of contact mark area please.
gazzol
Well-Known Member
I had a similar situation a few years back when I tried to save money by sourcing engine and gearbox mounts that were much cheaper and "nearly" the same size. Turned out that the driveline wasn't lined up properly and would cause a horrendous banging under hard acceleration, used to go through guibos with ridiculous regularity too. Hope you get to the bottom of your issues soon. Gary
Just read this thread. I can't wait to get under my car to see what the PO did/used in the Getrag 265 CR swap on mine. I am fairly certain it is not the CK system.
If everything is done according to Carl's write up in the tech section then you should have no problem with noise- My original engine was so anemic I would shift every gear at 5500 RPM's and it never banged around so I would have a look at Carl's write up; there is some very good information in there and you can just follow it through very slowly with what you have in your car/drive-line and check through things. Take pictures of any area that's being hit and post them.
Without knowing much about your car I would say check the mounts, check the mounts and check the mounts! They are the most common reason I know of for things that go bump! And good luck, please report your findings.
Without knowing much about your car I would say check the mounts, check the mounts and check the mounts! They are the most common reason I know of for things that go bump! And good luck, please report your findings.
inovermyhead
Well-Known Member
Thanks everyone for feedback
The car is undrivable at the moment due to having to take most of the interior apart to get a non working speedometer out for repair ( what a muther of a job that is) but as soon as it’s back on the road I will get underneath it and take some photos and revisit this problem.
Don, when are you coming down under next?
BTW at the last track day although I can’t start off the line hard, the engine pulled hard all the way to 6700-6800 rpm in second and third....?
The car is undrivable at the moment due to having to take most of the interior apart to get a non working speedometer out for repair ( what a muther of a job that is) but as soon as it’s back on the road I will get underneath it and take some photos and revisit this problem.
Don, when are you coming down under next?
BTW at the last track day although I can’t start off the line hard, the engine pulled hard all the way to 6700-6800 rpm in second and third....?
Engine mounts are only 2 of the 3 points. The engine can tilt forward or back depending on the mounting of the tranny.
Waiting for cool weather!
I did my conversion before this stuff became available, but I am going to switch over mainly because I am concerned about how close the bolts that hold the tranny mount to the car are to the wide part of the slot they ride in that allows them to be installed and held in place. If I were having the clunking problem discussed above, I would look at the position of these bolts relative to the wide parts of the slots in the car frame. If one of them is aligned with the opening, it could allow the tranny to move. I remember being unhappy about how close the bolts needed to be to these openings when I did my install.
Belgiumbarry
Well-Known Member
same observation here Ohmess. My plan was to weld a extra flat piece on both sides of the bridge so we could place another 2 extra bolts in it.... for some reason we didn't do it so far .... and i must say it stayed firm all over those years rally .
it's on my to do list
it's on my to do list
You should be very careful of the propshaft alignment. Usually the 5 speed being longer touches the tunnel so people tend to lower the gearbox to get clearance leaving the prop out of alignment. Best way to do it is to remove the bolts from prop to gearbox flange and check the clearance between the three prongs of the gearbox flange and rubber coupling are within 1mm of each other. A friend once fitted a 5 speed without doing this and on hard acceleration the prop came through the floor and smashed his radio.....!!
Belgiumbarry
Well-Known Member
Wolfram, as promised, a pic of my bridge. It's a easy DIY welded part , but as mentioned , it better should have wider side pads to accept 2 T bolts each side. The ones now are scary close to the opening in the chassis rails.
My gearbox has only 1 mount at the right side. ( dogleg 5 speed)
My gearbox has only 1 mount at the right side. ( dogleg 5 speed)
Is this bracketry only necessary for the 5 speed conversion? The factory 4 speed has enough support as is?A little spendy yes, but I think it makes the conversion look like it was born there. Worth it IMHO:
http://www.coupeking.com/product/e9-5-speed-conversion-mount-kit/
Thanx for pic.
I Will try with the crossmember from a E24. If it does'nt work I make my own
Wolfram
The five speed sits farther back and the track ends near there thus needing additional support.
inovermyhead
Well-Known Member
So on this, just had a proper look at the coupeking tranny support and it’s basically a two part thing, a bracket that supports the box perpendicular to the tunnel, which in my car is from an early 5 series and came from Carl so I assume this is the right one.
The second piece is a bracket on the tail of the box which looks like it would stop any vertical movement.......
WHICH MIGHT CURE THE THUMP .??
Any thoughts??
The second piece is a bracket on the tail of the box which looks like it would stop any vertical movement.......
WHICH MIGHT CURE THE THUMP .??
Any thoughts??
Thanks Chris